spta97
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- June 12, 2003
- Messages
- 1,036
- Reaction score
- 2
- City, State
- NY, NY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2000 5.0 AWD
First off, thanks for all the posts on shocks that gave me the confidence to do it myself!
It's supposed to rain in NY for the next week but we had a nice sunny day so I decided to replace the shocks on my 2000 5.0 AWD. I started with the fronts because I was told they were more difficult. Everything was rusted pretty good but I gave all the bolts a shot of PB Blaster last night. When taking off the top bolt on the front passenger side it snapped but luckilly that was enough to free the shock. The bottoms were fine. The driver side was easier with the exception of torquing down the top bolt. In my Haynes manual it said to grab the shock with a wrench (it had a bolt welded into it on the top) but I was not able to get the torque that I was shooting for but got it close enough.
The backs were actually a little harder because getting a torque wrench on the top bolts was next to impossible so I used my best judgement. Using the PB Blaster on the bottoms of the rear made quick work of them.
In a few hours (I took my time) I took it out for a test drive. There was no immedate change in the performance but I noticed slight nuances like less harshness from the road and the suspension bouncing back after bumps. Also, it seemed to be more sure footed than before.
Anyway, I'm happy I did it and it only cost me $75 + a few hours of my Sunday!
ps: There were some 18mm bolts on the suspension but a lack of 18mm sockets or wrenches in all my collection. I don't think that 18mm is a common size so it might help to pick it up if you plan to do the suspension. I got by with a 19mm cresent wrench and some luck.
It's supposed to rain in NY for the next week but we had a nice sunny day so I decided to replace the shocks on my 2000 5.0 AWD. I started with the fronts because I was told they were more difficult. Everything was rusted pretty good but I gave all the bolts a shot of PB Blaster last night. When taking off the top bolt on the front passenger side it snapped but luckilly that was enough to free the shock. The bottoms were fine. The driver side was easier with the exception of torquing down the top bolt. In my Haynes manual it said to grab the shock with a wrench (it had a bolt welded into it on the top) but I was not able to get the torque that I was shooting for but got it close enough.
The backs were actually a little harder because getting a torque wrench on the top bolts was next to impossible so I used my best judgement. Using the PB Blaster on the bottoms of the rear made quick work of them.
In a few hours (I took my time) I took it out for a test drive. There was no immedate change in the performance but I noticed slight nuances like less harshness from the road and the suspension bouncing back after bumps. Also, it seemed to be more sure footed than before.
Anyway, I'm happy I did it and it only cost me $75 + a few hours of my Sunday!
ps: There were some 18mm bolts on the suspension but a lack of 18mm sockets or wrenches in all my collection. I don't think that 18mm is a common size so it might help to pick it up if you plan to do the suspension. I got by with a 19mm cresent wrench and some luck.
