installing 6.5's in a 2003 Explorer?

[al bundy]

How much work is involved in putting 6.5's in a 2003 Explorer. Do you have to do any cutting? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[KPT]

I don't know if the bracket is the same as my 95 but to fit them in my front doors I had to cut a little notch on either side of the bracket for the speaker to sit flush. You'll also need something to seal the ends, I used duct tape for now, will probably fiberglass it if I get unlazy...

 

[karl_burns]

well, the answer is a little tricky

If you're a beginner or intermediate, you'll have to build brackets/mounting plates.
If you've done this plenty of times, you'll probably be able to fit in some 6.5 separates.
Karl

 

[al bundy]

Re: well, the answer is a little tricky

Originally posted by karl_burns
If you're a beginner or intermediate, you'll have to build brackets/mounting plates.
If you've done this plenty of times, you'll probably be able to fit in some 6.5 separates.
Karl

For the mounting plates do you mean mdf? Is there any problem adding 3/4" MDF and still fit? Is it easier to just cut the opening (really don't want to do this yet, only had my Explorer for 3 weeks)?

 

[liquidx9]

if youve done something like it before, make them out of 3/4 MDF, if not, take it to a small shop. it can be a real headache

 

[terdrocket]

Just trace the outline of the factory speaker onto 3/4" MDF. Then center the 6.5" speaker in the middle and trace around that. Mark the factory holes for the factory screws to mount the MDF to the door. Pre drill. Use a jig saw to cut out the hole for the 6.5" speaker. Then use a jig saw to cut roughly 1/8" outside of the traces you made. It doesn't have to be pretty. Dynamat can hide and correct any mistakes.

 

[Big Green]

Just curious but, wouldnt 3/4 MDF make the speaker rub against the door panel/grill? I thought about doing that in my 02 but I used some 1/4 plywood insted. I was afraid of the thicker wood for the space issue. Has anyone had any problems with space using the 3/4 MDF?

 

[terdrocket]

Nah, there is quite a bit of room in there, plus the stock speaker has a plastic spacer.

 

[Big Green]

Good, I have wanted to change the brackets to MDF, will there be any difference in sound?

 

[terdrocket]

will there be any difference in sound?

Probably not. If you are running a lot of power, maybe.
It would be easier and most likely more effective to cover the plywood and entire door panel w/ dynamat or like sound deadening material.
I run a 150 x 2 amp to my 6.5 components and have problems w/ the plastic door panels resonating at certain frequencies.

 

[Big Green]

Not to hijack the thread but, speaking of dynamat, when putting a sound deadening material on my doors do I cover up the entire door panel. There are holes where you can see the window (if its down) and holes to where you can work on the inner door, do those get covered up. If so, how would a person replace a window motor if it were to go out? It doesnt make much sense to leave holes, but I want to do it right and not have a crappy install.

 

[metalhed]

Yea, cover your entire door.

You've gotta make sure everything is in top-notch working order before going that route though.

If something breaks internally, I suppose you could always cut away the dynamat where the holes were, and just perform surgery like that and patch it back up.. But that's a pain.


You'll get the most benefit from sealing off the entire door.. That will let all the internal airspace act like a sealed box for the speakers, creating better output and cleaner sound. Plus you'll hear less of the road, which is never a bad thing in audio.

 

[Big Green]

Thank you, I've always been unsure about that, and I want to make sure I do it right. I hope it makes a huge difference. I'll keep ya posted.

 

[Hokie]

Also depends on the width/construction of the basket of the speaker (which you really can't tell how it'll work until you are doing the install)

In my dad's Mounty I put 6.5 Infinity Reference components (they have a stamped steel basket) by using a 6x8>>5 1/4" bracket. The whole for the 5 1/4" was actually just large enough to allow his 6.5 to drop right in. It was basically a direct swap/bolt on project.

NOW... My alpine type r components are 6.75" and have cast aluminum baskets. They were a PITA to make fit. I did it w/out any cutting by using the afformentioned METRA 6x8 >> 5 1/4" brackets. But I ended up hacking up the brackets and using them as mounting spots. It ain't the prettiest, but its mounted securely (and you'll never see it b/c its behind the door). Also, I put in XTC foam speaker baffles (recommended) to fill any gaps you might have.

 

[cutlr7]

Hokie hit it perfect. I just installed some Boston Acoustics Pro 6.5s in my 99 and used some MDF to make the needed mounting plates. I used my old 5x7s as a reference, traced out the needed pattern then used the mounting ring to cut the needed hole. Fit fine. I also used the baffles to fit in the areas, thanks Crutchfield.

Word of advice, take your time. ITs well worth it. Also Boston Pro 6.5s and JL Audio 300/2= Great sound!!

 

[al bundy]

Glad to here a success story. I'll be getting my new speakers(ID Chameleon), amp(Arc 1500D to power my CMP12), and head unit(Alpine 7995) sometime this week, can't wait to get started.

 

[pghcarguy02]

speaker adapter kits

here is a site where you can get speaker adapter kits.
www.mjmautoinnovations.com

 

[pghcarguy02]

there is no cutting involved. you can get an adpter at www.mjmautoinnovations.com/speakeradapters