installing front drive shaft

[explorerpirate]

Hi, I am new here, so I would ask. About a year ago I bought my 1997 Ford Explorer EB ed. Being that my knowledge on working on cars is limited, I didnt check The underbody. About a week later my 4h and 4l lights started flashing. So I was concerned but it didnt seem a major issue. Then my First child was born and I put The whole issue in The back of my mind. The lights still flashing but a couple of months ago, I decided I am going to do something about it. So after going from one transmission shop to another all said will drop The truck off when you get a chance and will find The issue without even looking under The truck to find out what The easy problem was. It wasnt til a friend of mine that works at penske looked under my explorer to find out that my front drive shaft wasnt there in which I felt stubid because I never relized it myself. So I went to my local autopart stores and they quoted me like 300 with core or 350 without. Will I did The smartest thing I could thank of and bought one for $55 with shiping through ebay motors. Now I got The shaft which is The right size and The ujoint seems in good shape. Now for my questions. What are The size of The 6 bolts which connects to The rear side of The transfer case, I guess thats what its called. What are The size of The ubolts that connects to The front side of The shaft to The axle? And is it as simple as jacking The front end of The explorer up and replacing all those bolt starting from The front end of The shaft. Thanks and I look forward to you all feedback and advice....

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Replacing the shaft is not too difficult. You want to start with the CV side first, then line up the front u-joint and connect.

As for connecting hardware, cheapest will be pull what you need at a local yard. Doubt would be more than a couple dollars.

Going new:

You need 6 bolts for the cv (trans) side - part number is N811660-S100. They come in a 6-pack from ford for $28: http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/ShoppingCart.aspx?addpart=n811660-s100 They might be available cheaper somewhere else.

There are also 3 retaining straps that look like half moons which would normally be used with the 6 bolts, but you can probably safely substitute flat washers to spread out the bolt head mounting surface area.

On the front u-joint you have 4 bolts number 389665-S100 and two retainer straps part number 4A254 which are mandatory. It comes as a kit for $4 from Rock Auto: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=356896

 

[explorerpirate]

thanks for The input

So I went to a local ford dealer today and I got The bolts that connect to The cv side. I wasnt sure what they were thanking but for $28 they sold e 12 bolts with 6 retaining straps, 6 to many but I am not complaining. I also called The local Advance auto parts, right by my house and they had to order there version of The u joints kit for $5, it will be there tuesday mourning. Now with The parts at hand is there anything I need to know? As far as I know, First thing I need to do is jack The front end up, then perhepts use wd 40 spray The u joints and what not, bolt The u joints into The yoke or it called then spray The bolts down that go into The tranmission. Then tighten The 6 bolts with The 3 retaining straps snugly, then hopefully my 4x4 work. Thanks again! Brian

 

[drdoom]

Brian, one thing you might do, is clean the two areas on the front differential yoke where the U-Joint cups sit, so they will seat nicely. Just scrape/sand a bit. Rust build-up may not be an issue in GA, so please disregard if that is the case.

 

[my98nnj]

There obviously is a reason the shaft was removed, I think your going to find that out PDQ.

 

[explorerpirate]

something was wrong from start

Will I istalled everything accordanly, but on The tramission side of the shaft i noticed eariler that all there was a rubber boot and a thin metal cover with The 6 bolt wholes that would go into The transmission. I didnt thank nothing of it and went ahead bolted into The tramission. Will now for The test drive. It did shift into 4h and 4l. But I noticed that there was a raddling sound probly from The gear looking thing on The tramission side of The shaft wasnt into anything. Will needless to say by The end of my test ride The rubber boot broke and The then metal cover became sort of a deformed circle and I lost my 4 wheel drive again. Also The bolts seem alot longer then needed so I was thanking something missing. I look foward to figure out whats going on thanks.

 

[drdoom]

Pics.

 

[explorerpirate]

no cv joint

I beleave there is no cv joint to connect the drive shaft to The transmission. Sigh I can never win. Brian

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Dude - your shaft was missing the CV joint! That thin metal cup and rubber boot is supposed to be press fit with a heavy steel CV joint a little bigger than a baseball. See pic: http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/c27/65-9293/image/4/

Under that dome shaped top is a solid steel ring with large bearings and lots of grease.
Would tend to explain why the shaft was so cheap. The joint is about $100 by itself.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Brian, you are not totally screwed on this. At least you have the shaft, u-joint, and connecting hardware (found a use for the 6 extras!). The big problem with these usually is a boot tear allowing water and crud into the CV. Starts as vibrations and noise followed by potential damage to other drive train parts. As you have seen the shaft is not cheap so a lot of people just remove it and drive as a 2WD.

Obviously you need to take that shaft back off before driving any more. The boot and metal cup come with the joint so don't worry about them being trashed. Cut or break the metal band and pull them off the shaft.

This leaves you with 3 options. 1. call it $85 down the drain and forget it. 2. trade the shaft as a core for a new or remanufactured shaft (Napa was cheapest I found at about $250). 3. get a CV kit ($130 retail, but online as low as $60 delivered if you shop around). Dorman kit #932-201

There is 1 major thing at this point that can throw off option #3. We do not know if you have the right shaft! Two different lengths were used in the trucks, one about 3/4" longer than the other & they don't interchange & parts book simply tells you to compare to the original.

When you put the shaft in before, how large was the gap between the shaft end (not the metal cup) and the transfer case? If it was a little under 2 inches then you have the right one. If less than an inch you got the long one and need the shorter. If closer to 3, you have the short one but need the longer shaft. They both use the same u-joint and CV joint.

 

[explorerpirate]

Brian, you are not totally screwed on this. At least you have the shaft, u-joint, and connecting hardware (found a use for the 6 extras!). The big problem with these usually is a boot tear allowing water and crud into the CV. Starts as vibrations and noise followed by potential damage to other drive train parts. As you have seen the shaft is not cheap so a lot of people just remove it and drive as a 2WD.

Obviously you need to take that shaft back off before driving any more. The boot and metal cup come with the joint so don't worry about them being trashed. Cut or break the metal band and pull them off the shaft.

This leaves you with 3 options. 1. call it $85 down the drain and forget it. 2. trade the shaft as a core for a new or remanufactured shaft (Napa was cheapest I found at about $250). 3. get a CV kit ($130 retail, but online as low as $60 delivered if you shop around). Dorman kit #932-201

There is 1 major thing at this point that can throw off option #3. We do not know if you have the right shaft! Two different lengths were used in the trucks, one about 3/4" longer than the other & they don't interchange & parts book simply tells you to compare to the original.

When you put the shaft in before, how large was the gap between the shaft end (not the metal cup) and the transfer case? If it was a little under 2 inches then you have the right one. If less than an inch you got the long one and need the shorter. If closer to 3, you have the short one but need the longer shaft. They both use the same u-joint and CV joint.

I thought it was a Little under 2 inches, The shaft size seems right. Lol trying to get my 4x4 working so I can be ready for The oncoming camping season. I know of some good trails in GA to drive up for some nice hidden camp sites. So it looks like I am going have to buy. The cv joint. If i can find it fo 60 delevered I am down for that. Is it pretty easy install once i get it?

 

[explorerpirate]

forgot to ask

Oh yea another thing, how does that dome end of The cv joint sit on The transfer case of The transmission? Thanks, Brian

 

[RomeovilleIL]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=334048

How does the dome sit? Interesting that you have that question. The part you are bolting to should look somewhat cupped with a depression in the center of it. If not, you have a different set up and need a different CV.

This was a good write-up on how to put the CV on, but looks like the pics are gone.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259861

 

[explorerpirate]

Just a couple more days til The cv joint gets here, I hope it all goes will. I think I got a good deal for it, $83, new of course with shipping through amazon. Thanks, Brian

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Any update on the repair? Curious if there were any other reasons the shaft was missing.