instructions for ball joint removal.

[96TOM]

As per prvious posts I need to replace my upper
ball joints. How difficult is this ? Can someone email me the details if possible ?
Thanks,
Tom

 

[tdavis]

Simple.

1) jackup front of vehicle, put on solid jack stands.
2) remove wheels.
3) remove the tierods/draglink.
4) remove hubs
5) remove calipers, hang from fender somewhere. DO NOT disconnect the brake line(s).
6) remove rotors.
7) remove spindles.
8) pull axles out.
9) remove the nuts on the tops of the ball joints.
10) get a soft blow hammer, knock the nuckle down and off the TTB.
11) take nuckle to shop, have the ball joints pressed out, and new ones pressed in.

HINT - replace *both* joints (upper and lower). You've got it apart, they aren't that expensive.

12) put it all back together the way you took it apart.
13) remember to grease them before you drive on it.

14) get an alignment done.

 

[BUCHVILLEMAN]

those are perfect instructions for an early model.

late model:
1) jackup front of vehicle, put on solid jack stands.
2) remove wheels.
3) locate upper control arm, remove bolts on left and right
4) locate ball joint at end of control arm, get you wrench and socket and remove the bolt holging joint end to the hub assembly
5) locate cold beer
6) gently tap control arm up
7) set new control arm in and replace bolts and tihten them down
8) replace wheel
9) enjoy cold beer

i agree with tdavis you should do upper and lower at the same time. usually the lower will wear out before the upper will. in this case get ready to get dirty.

1) jackup front of vehicle, put on solid jack stands.
2) remove wheels.
3) decompress torsion bars by loosening adjuster as loose as it will go (i actually took mine out)
4) take off caliper (do not disconnect break line unless you feel like bleeding hte breaks later)
5) remove tie rod
6) remove upper ball joint
7) remove nut on bottom ball joint
8) grow a second set of arms
9) cut clamp on cv boot at the axle closest to the differential
10) remove hub assembly axle and all
11) remove lower control arm by taking off bolts (dont loose bushing) that attach it to the chassis
12) get creative you have to either use a hydraulic press or bang the ball joint out with a hammer or liek i did put a jack on it and put it under a tractor
13) press that new bad boy in there
14) reassemble that front end like you were jackie chan
15) eat a hearty meal becasue you just missed lunch
16) do the other side
17) slpurge and get a 6pack or a 12 pack for your friends that are helping you just put in on eful day of work on your pretty explorer

let me know if you have any specific questions and i will try to be mor clear.

good luck!

 

[BUCHVILLEMAN]

a few other things

1) have new carter keys available as you shouldnt reuse old ones
2) have new clamp for cv boot
3) have axle grease or whatever you use in cv boots because you might loose some
4) make sure you put torsion adjusters in equally
5) get an alignment

anythign else? ill try to remember. i have done this on my explorer and on my fake dad's pick up and i bet im missing something.

discount auto carries the parts but youll have to give them a day to order them. i cant remember what grease goes in the boots youll have to ask.

 

[BUCHVILLEMAN]

if you can find the lower ball joints (or upper for that matter) with a grease fitting and then you will probably not have to change em out ever again.

 

[smithdh]

How do you get the spindles off????

I am trying to do ball joints on my 93 and am down to step 7, "remove spindles". The 5 nuts are off, I took a little bolt out of the back of the ABS sensor too. I have tapped it with a wood block and 2lb hammer and it still hasn't started to move. Any advice? It looks almost like it is glued on too, or is it just rusted solid?

 

[moto_head90]

I just changed my ball joints last week. Take a flat bladed chisel and hammer the **** out of it to pry it out. That's what I had to do to get mine off, use a lot of penetrating oil too. I never put my rusted rotor guards back on either.

 

[smithdh]

That was the key. It sat another 24hrs with penetrating oil too. THANKS! Now on to the
rest of the job.