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Is my 2nd key definitely NOT original Ford? (and how I enabled remote start (2013 Explorer XLT)




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I watched a bunch of PATS Forscan programming videos last night. If you embark on the erase/program route you can potentially leave your vehicle undriveable if the new key won't program. There are a few tests you can to to try and verify that it will program but they are not foolproof. I think I'm going to try and program (with Forscan) the key as a spare key which I believe doesn't affect the original two keys. If that is successful I might just leave it at that. If that fails then I might just grab an oem kit with original keys and program them and everything will be legit. I believe there are 3 keys already programmed and from what I have read you can have unlimited keys programmed to start the car, but only 4 keys for FOB/Button access.

Roveer
 






I watched a bunch of PATS Forscan programming videos last night. If you embark on the erase/program route you can potentially leave your vehicle undriveable if the new key won't program. There are a few tests you can to to try and verify that it will program but they are not foolproof. I think I'm going to try and program (with Forscan) the key as a spare key which I believe doesn't affect the original two keys. If that is successful I might just leave it at that. If that fails then I might just grab an oem kit with original keys and program them and everything will be legit. I believe there are 3 keys already programmed and from what I have read you can have unlimited keys programmed to start the car, but only 4 keys for FOB/Button access.

Roveer
If you were local, I would just do it for you, it’s really not as big of a deal as it sounds, you can cut the key, and go through the process for programming the remote part, you will at least have remote start
 






So is my key IAK or PATS? I'm having trouble determining? I'm guessing IA is the keyless fob\push button start and PATS is the chipped physical key?
PATS = Passive Anti-Theft Systems (PATS), also called Ford Securilock, is a vehicle security feature introduced on 1996 and later Ford vehicles. When replacing the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) on a PATS-equipped vehicle, a parameter reset or relearn procedure must be performed after the PCM is installed.
IAK= Intelligent Access Key. The info below was taken from our Owner's Manual.
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Peter
 






Success!!!

Ordered a 4 button key from amazon. Car Key Fob Fit for Ford 2011-2016 F-150/ F-250/ F-350/ Explorer 2011-2015/ Lincoln 2011-2014 Mark LT/2011-2016 Navigator 4-Button Key Replacement for Ford Key F-150

Got the 4 button key, programmed it to start the car with 2 original keys, (first key in, ignition to on for 5 seconds, removed, 2nd key in, ignition to on for 5 seconds, removed, third (new key) in, ignition on door locks cycled, removed, re-inserted, started car.

I then did the fob button programming by putting in new key turning from off to on (not start, but on), 8 times, door locks cycled, then pressed any button on key. Got out of car, checked that lock unlock worked, then locked door, pressed and hold auto start button for 2 seconds and horn honked and car started.

Finished by getting into car and putting key in and turning to on. Total success.

To enable remote start I used forscan and changed values in two modules as follows: (for my 2013 Explorer XLT)

BCM
726-19-01 0047 = remote start disabled
726-19-01 0148 = remote start enabled

IPC remote start options
720-01-03 C8F3 = without climate seats or wheel(Base model and Interceptor. Possibly some XLT models)
720-01-03 F823 = without heated steering wheel With climate controlled seats
720-01-03 FC27 = with heated steering wheel With climate controlled seats

Using information from the following posts:

Remote Start 2011-2015 FORSCAN
Remote Start Facts (2011 - 2015 only)
Hidden Remote Start?

Thank you to all who contributed to my adding a 3rd key and getting remote start working.

Roveer
 






Success!!!

Ordered a 4 button key from amazon. Car Key Fob Fit for Ford 2011-2016 F-150/ F-250/ F-350/ Explorer 2011-2015/ Lincoln 2011-2014 Mark LT/2011-2016 Navigator 4-Button Key Replacement for Ford Key F-150

Got the 4 button key, programmed it to start the car with 2 original keys, (first key in, ignition to on for 5 seconds, removed, 2nd key in, ignition to on for 5 seconds, removed, third (new key) in, ignition on door locks cycled, removed, re-inserted, started car.

I then did the fob button programming by putting in new key turning from off to on (not start, but on), 8 times, door locks cycled, then pressed any button on key. Got out of car, checked that lock unlock worked, then locked door, pressed and hold auto start button for 2 seconds and horn honked and car started.

Finished by getting into car and putting key in and turning to on. Total success.

To enable remote start I used forscan and changed values in two modules as follows: (for my 2013 Explorer XLT)

BCM
726-19-01 0047 = remote start disabled
726-19-01 0148 = remote start enabled

IPC remote start options
720-01-03 C8F3 = without climate seats or wheel(Base model and Interceptor. Possibly some XLT models)
720-01-03 F823 = without heated steering wheel With climate controlled seats
720-01-03 FC27 = with heated steering wheel With climate controlled seats

Using information from the following posts:

Remote Start 2011-2015 FORSCAN
Remote Start Facts (2011 - 2015 only)
Hidden Remote Start?

Thank you to all who contributed to my adding a 3rd key and getting remote start working.

Roveer
Not only was it easy but satisfying as well that you did it yourself, congrats on your success.
 






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