Is there a fuse for cruise control?

[bcgreen]

Thanks for all the info. so far. Don't you guys think since I was parked and I didn't have the cruise control on, heater not on, ac not on, that just the simple task of snapping the fuse cover back on would cause the fuse to blow, that it might be perhaps the wiring on the back of the fuse box?
And the second fuse blew, not because I had the cruise control on, or the fan on, because all these things worked just fine for 35 min., until I hit that bump in the road?
I'm just asking because that seems funny how sensitive that one particular fuse is.

 

[bcgreen]

Nt

 

[dynamite196]

if only that one fuse is blowing when you hit bumps then it's probably a shorted wire causing it to blow.

 

[bcgreen]

if only that one fuse is blowing when you hit bumps then it's probably a shorted wire causing it to blow.

That's my immediate feeling, but I'm not a mechanic, just a shade tree one, and then you have to ask yourself, what do you do, just pull the panel and look at the back? Well that's just one of the many ideas to explore, and since I have this update I am wondering if any of the guys feel any different about their suggestions

 

[dogfriend]

if only that one fuse is blowing when you hit bumps then it's probably a shorted wire causing it to blow.

I agree, its probably a short somewhere in a harness or device in the circuit since its sensitive to vibration. Tough to locate. Look for damage to the wiring harness for that circuit. Also, figure out what other devices are powered on that circuit - try tapping them to reproduce the problem.

I'll do one more pitch for the possibility of a bad SCDS - the failure mode is to short.

 

[gijoecam]

I agree, its probably a short somewhere in a harness or device in the circuit since its sensitive to vibration. Tough to locate. Look for damage to the wiring harness for that circuit. Also, figure out what other devices are powered on that circuit - try tapping them to reproduce the problem.

I'll do one more pitch for the possibility of a bad SCDS - the failure mode is to short.

OK, finally got a chance to get back to the schematics for a 96....

I had it backwards (serves me right for opening my trap without looking at the schematics first).

Fuse #10 feeds both the SCDS and the speed control servo directly. To isolate the problem, first unplug the SCDS on the front of the master cylinder (should have a red connector with a black plug). Replace the fuse and see if it still blows. If so, plug the SCDS back in and unplug the cruise control servo itself, and take it for another drive. One of those two will stop it from blowing the fuse.

Also, The list I posted above are all the OTHER items connected to that same fuse. If the SCDS and servo are both disconnected and it still blows the fuse, it's got to be one of the other components. As mentioned above, I suspect the SCDS as the most likely culprit.

Another thought: Teh power feed to fuse #10 is supposed to be switched. If I'm reading it correctly, it blew before you snapped the cover back on the first time... was the key on then??? There shouldn't be any power at either terminal on that fuse with the key off. If there is, there could be other problems too.....

-Joe

 

[bcgreen]

OK, finally got a chance to get back to the schematics for a 96....

I had it backwards (serves me right for opening my trap without looking at the schematics first).

Fuse #10 feeds both the SCDS and the speed control servo directly. To isolate the problem, first unplug the SCDS on the front of the master cylinder (should have a red connector with a black plug). Replace the fuse and see if it still blows. If so, plug the SCDS back in and unplug the cruise control servo itself, and take it for another drive. One of those two will stop it from blowing the fuse.

Also, The list I posted above are all the OTHER items connected to that same fuse. If the SCDS and servo are both disconnected and it still blows the fuse, it's got to be one of the other components. As mentioned above, I suspect the SCDS as the most likely culprit.

Another thought: Teh power feed to fuse #10 is supposed to be switched. If I'm reading it correctly, it blew before you snapped the cover back on the first time... was the key on then??? There shouldn't be any power at either terminal on that fuse with the key off. If there is, there could be other problems too.....

-Joe

I think the key was on the first time it blew, not absolutely positive. I do know that one of the times I snapped the cover back on, the car was running at the time, everything was working and I thought the problem might be solved.
Will disconnect the SCDS and servo tonight.
Thanks

 

[bcgreen]

Update: I pulled the plug on the SCDS and the fuse is not blowing, so I am going to replace the SCDS. Since everyone was mentioning that theirs was leaking and mine wasn't, I figured that the part was not necessarily bad. Since my vehicle is a '96 I don't come under the recall, so I am going to have to purchase the part. Interestingly the recalled item was red in colour just as mine is.
Thanks for everyones help

 

[budwich]

glad you found it before the fire. The poster that found this similar scenario was on a 97 I do believe. I am waiting for my 96 to go flakey or get a recall which ever comes first.

 

[bcgreen]

OK, finally got a chance to get back to the schematics for a 96....

I had it backwards (serves me right for opening my trap without looking at the schematics first).

Fuse #10 feeds both the SCDS and the speed control servo directly. To isolate the problem, first unplug the SCDS on the front of the master cylinder (should have a red connector with a black plug). Replace the fuse and see if it still blows. If so, plug the SCDS back in and unplug the cruise control servo itself, and take it for another drive. One of those two will stop it from blowing the fuse.

Also, The list I posted above are all the OTHER items connected to that same fuse. If the SCDS and servo are both disconnected and it still blows the fuse, it's got to be one of the other components. As mentioned above, I suspect the SCDS as the most likely culprit.

Another thought: Teh power feed to fuse #10 is supposed to be switched. If I'm reading it correctly, it blew before you snapped the cover back on the first time... was the key on then??? There shouldn't be any power at either terminal on that fuse with the key off. If there is, there could be other problems too.....

-Joe

Here's the latest update;
As you know I replaced the SCDS, it came with an short piece of wiring. Well I drove the vehicle for a few hours, and parked it overnight. This morning is was fine, but had to stop for gas. When I started up I knew the fuse had blown because my overhead console was out again. What was interesting was it was not sensitive to bumps as it was before.
So now I've pulled the wiring from the servo, it has something like 8 wires going into it on it's side. Will go and report back tomorrow.

 

[gijoecam]

Thanks for the update.... Servo sounds like the next logical step. Be sure to inspect the wiring at the servo connector for any heat damage. That's an associated problem and the wiring inspection is a part of the SCDS replacement procedure.

Keep us posted!

 

[bcgreen]

Thanks for the update.... Servo sounds like the next logical step. Be sure to inspect the wiring at the servo connector for any heat damage. That's an associated problem and the wiring inspection is a part of the SCDS replacement procedure.

Keep us posted!

I started it up this morning and it blew the fuse. I have not inspected the wiring yet, but will get to it when I find some time.

 

[bcgreen]

wiring at the servo connector for any heat damage
The wiring is fine at the servo, but I have not had time to do any further work.
Here's an interesting. The rear heater blower will blow air when I turn the temp. to OFF, but when I go to anything else, such as a/c, to the feet, defrost etc. then the blower does not work.

 

[budwich]

your rear blower motor relay is not being "activated" correctly by your EATC controller (ie. lack of ground on R/O wire)

 

[gijoecam]

Indeed... the EATC should ground the relay for the rear blower via the R/O wire. It's also possible that somebody at some point in time inadvertently swapped relays for a normally closed relay instead of a normally open relay.

-Joe

 

[bcgreen]

your rear blower motor relay is not being "activated" correctly by your EATC controller (ie. lack of ground on R/O wire)

I wonder if that is the what is causing my fuse to blow?

Also what is a EATC controller?

 

[dogfriend]

I wonder if that is the what is causing my fuse to blow?

Also what is a EATC controller?

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control

 

[bcgreen]

Indeed... the EATC should ground the relay for the rear blower via the R/O wire. It's also possible that somebody at some point in time inadvertently swapped relays for a normally closed relay instead of a normally open relay.

-Joe

Nobody has worked on my car other than myself and I haven't had any major problems other than this recent one.
1. Is it possible that the relay went bad and is now causing it to blow when the EATC is turned off. In the past before I had this problem I would hear, beneath the arm rest, a muffled clicking sound continuously, and now I don't.
2. If this relay needs replacing is it located under the center console near the EATC?

 

[bcgreen]

Looks like I finally found the problem area. Apparently the rear blower went out and this was causing the fuse to blow and knock out the cruise control and overhead console.
Thanks everyone for their help.

 

[bcgreen]

I finally found the problem area that was causing the fuse to blow and knock out the cruise control and overhead console. Apparently the rear blower, which stopped functioning was, causing the fuse to blow.
Thanks for everyones help.