is this normal?

[DAT05EXPLODER]

here are a few pictures of my 5r55w tranny.

what part of the tranny is the pictures above? looks like it is in 3 pieces, but when i push on the lever they all clamp down onto the drum it's on.

Also, with the valve body down i was able to get a little into the tranny. right above the shift linkage is the sun gear shell? if not idk what it is, but i was able to spin it in both directions with my fingers, is this normal or should it only spin one way?

haven't had any hints on my other thread explaining that i have no Reverse or Drive, but can get it into 1,2,3 and eventually after 40-50mph get it into D.

any help would be appreciated.

 

[JK080]

Everything looks like it should from what I can see, the lever assembly is for the low reverse band. If it tightens on the band then is most likely working like it should. The drum above the linkage is the sun gear shell, I am not sure about if it turns both ways if turned inside the case, I just don't check it like that. I am sure it not your problem because the never fails like that and if it has broken it wouldn't cause it to have no forward, it would at least not have second.

No movement forward or reverse but engages in low tells me the low reverse band and the forward drum works. Things that I have seen that can cause this is a bad solenoid block, sticking relief valve in the pump.

http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/56200-03K.pdf

I would check the valve body real good, replace the solenoid block and if its still acting up it most likely will have to come out. The use of a scanner would help too just to check all the other controls like the MLPS, which could have a effect on the engagements.

 

[DAT05EXPLODER]

thank you for the response. i have tried searching for a diagram to test the solenoid pack, but without success. everything was through the firewall and as you can tell, i have it out and just testing blind all ohms seem like they are in good range between 28-44. only problem is i have no clue what prong goes to what lol.

how can i test the valve body to ensure it is working properly?

 

[JK080]

These things fail mechanically not electrically, if they fail electrically the computer picks up on it and sets a trouble code


Check just the obvious things with the valve body like stuck valves, broken springs, missing check balls. Everything else I find wrong with them causes problems when they get hot.

Use the shift solenoid power for all solenoid tests, just move to each pin for the solenoids leaving one lead on the solenoid power pin. The computer controls the ground for the solenoids, I doubt you will find a issue like this.

The solenoids should check between 16 to 45 ohms

 

[DAT05EXPLODER]

should all the valves be moving in and out freely? i had 2 check balls inside, is that the correct number?

i am getting p1700 which is useless for info and p0745 which is pressure control a

 

[DAT05EXPLODER]

i just tested the solenoid pack as you described.

results:

pressure A: 5 ohms
pressure B: 4.8 ohms
pressure C: 4.8 ohms
TCC: 10 ohms
all shift solenoids: 23.5 ohms

does that sound good to you? again, i greatly appreciate your knowledge and help on this problem.

 

[JK080]

That looks right and the valves should move, put this thing back together and replace the solenoid block, I think your problem is there.

 

[DAT05EXPLODER]

when i was pushing on the valves only 1 or 2 really moved, all others just a slight click. normal or not?

 

[JK080]

Most of them have a spring under them so that's why they click back, I think your valve body is probably fine. It sounds like the pressure control solenoid in the block is faulty due to the code you got and it can cause problems like this.

 

[DAT05EXPLODER]

will buy a new solenoid pack, have you had any experience with the sonnax "upgraded" reman. pack?

 

[DAT05EXPLODER]

ok, maybe i can pick your brain on this. for ***** and giggles i took the solenoid pack apart and all solenoids work under 12v power. so mechanically i think it was good, however some of the circuits were loose on the board. not sure if that is how it was made since this is the first time handling one, but like i said i am going to buy a new pack but wanted to see in detail what may be wrong. that would be my only conclusion if that were the problem.

 

[JK080]

I dont think I have ever had that solenoid block apart, I know I have had that solenoid block not work right out of the box brand new.

 

[DAT05EXPLODER]

ok, well new part should be in soon. will test it and then put it in. really hope that is my problem.

 

[DAT05EXPLODER]

well new solenoid is in, everything torqued down. still having the same problem. i assume the link you have in your first post, JK, would require the tranny to come out?

 

[JK080]

Well that sux, this was the only thing you could have done short of pulling the tranny. With that P0745 code the block had a problem and needed to be replaced anyway. We had one in the shop a couple of weeks ago that would not engage in any gear but low, and it had a couple of solenoid codes and the block fixed it. All of our rebuilds will get a new block just to help with these kinds of problems.

The valve in the pump can also cause it not to engage into gear, but it shouldn't engage in any other gear when this valve sticks. The input sprag can also fail and cause a no movement but will engage in the lower gears and will allow for OD once up to speed like you mentioned, this kind of failure may produce metal debris in the pan. I don't see it that much in the 5R55W but it can happen. Ether way this transmission will have to come out, you have done all you can do.

 

[DAT05EXPLODER]

yup, definitely sucks since the previous owner said it was rebuilt 20k miles ago.