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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
In the pic, it's the rusty round thing in upper left center. That's the closest I can see to a possible bleeder screw on the RABS, but the nut size looks to be 3/4 or maybe 7/8!
It doesn't look like any bleeder I have ever seen. Then again, I know very little about RABS except how to change a control module and that was so long ago that I forgot most of that.
You should bleed the brakes the regular way on the older model RABS. The new systems with 4 wheel ABS require a scanner capable of cycling the ABS solenoid block.
Brooklyn, does the regular way include the rabs valve, or no? That's my big question.
I know the proper order for wheels, and I know the later models with full abs need a special dealer tool. I just don't know if rabs gets bled, and if so, where?
I assume that is a bleeder, I have an extra RABS unit in my garage and mine has a rubber cap over the nipple on that end. It should bleed out when you do the rear brakes though. A hand vacuum pump from the rear brakes should do the trick.
What is making you want to bleed it? Spongy pedal or air in the lines?