Is this the right hose for SeaFoam treatment?

[swshawaii]

I hope I didn't damage anything (I ran it up close to 100MPH on the highway)

Why? Do you believe the Sea Foam Trans Tune is more effective driving faster? :scratch:

 

[natenkiki2004]

You don't need an OBD reader, just a paperclip. Check this page out:
http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/
Free & easy. The connectors are between the power distribution block and the blower housing.

You definitely need a pan gasket, just try to find one that's all rubber, not cork or cork/rubber mix. The one I got for mine was a vacuumed to a piece of cardboard with plastic, it had both the filter & gasket. I believe they call it "carded".

Your trans has got to hold more than 3 quarts. I'd bet the torque converter itself holds more than that. I just looked in my Owners Guide (see signature) and the 2 wheel drive holds 9.7 quarts and the 4x4 holds 10 quarts. That's not the pan, that's the whole system. I'd imagine the pan is at LEAST 4-5. Like I said, I had to put in 5-7 just to get mine to engage.
Also, you're not flushing, you're replacing half the fluid. With those miles, I'd recommend getting a in-line filter going for a few hundred miles, especially with the Seafoam knocking crud loose. Then drop the pan and you'll end up replacing half the fluid. This makes it easy on the system.

Torquing is very important. You're connecting a steel pan to an aluminum housing. It's pretty easy to strip threads on aluminum and torquing means you're applying an even force across the entire pan. Doing it hand tight, you might get more tired towards the end and torque them less.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Why? Do you believe the Sea Foam Trans Tune is more effective driving faster? :scratch:

If you read my earlier posts, you would know that I also SeaFoamed the oil and fuel as well as through the Master Cylinder vacuum line. I have SeaFoam running everywhere in the truck, so it's not just the Trans Tune.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

You don't need an OBD reader, just a paperclip. Check this page out:
http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/
Free & easy. The connectors are between the power distribution block and the blower housing.

You definitely need a pan gasket, just try to find one that's all rubber, not cork or cork/rubber mix. The one I got for mine was a vacuumed to a piece of cardboard with plastic, it had both the filter & gasket. I believe they call it "carded".

Your trans has got to hold more than 3 quarts. I'd bet the torque converter itself holds more than that. I just looked in my Owners Guide (see signature) and the 2 wheel drive holds 9.7 quarts and the 4x4 holds 10 quarts. That's not the pan, that's the whole system. I'd imagine the pan is at LEAST 4-5. Like I said, I had to put in 5-7 just to get mine to engage.
Also, you're not flushing, you're replacing half the fluid. With those miles, I'd recommend getting a in-line filter going for a few hundred miles, especially with the Seafoam knocking crud loose. Then drop the pan and you'll end up replacing half the fluid. This makes it easy on the system.

Torquing is very important. You're connecting a steel pan to an aluminum housing. It's pretty easy to strip threads on aluminum and torquing means you're applying an even force across the entire pan. Doing it hand tight, you might get more tired towards the end and torque them less.

I'm not seeing anything about an Explorer in that website, and I'm not sure what code system my 94 uses. There are places around here that read error codes for free so they can try to convince you to let them fix it.

I'll check if the filter has a gasket when I get home, if not Ill return it and get the one from Advance Auto

 

[Maniak]

Here is a thread I found via the useful thread forum here..

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160035

It has the 2 and 3 digit codes you could get (your 1994 should be getting 3 digit codes).

Post 5 in that thread shows how to get the codes using a test light... That thread also has a link on how read the codes without a scanner.

Most places that read codes for free are using an ODB-II scanner which is required for 1996 and newer vehicles. You don't have an ODB-II vehicle so those scanner won't work.

~Mark

 

[swshawaii]

If you read my earlier posts, you would know that I also SeaFoamed the oil and fuel as well as through the Master Cylinder vacuum line. I have SeaFoam running everywhere in the truck, so it's not just the Trans Tune.

I pushed it really hard so I hope didn't damage anything.

I ran it up close to 100MPH on the highway

Same question applies to the Motor Treatment. Driving 100 MPH is NOT mentioned in the instructions of either product.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Same question applies to the Motor Treatment. Driving 100 MPH is NOT mentioned in the instructions of either product.

Obviously cleaning an engine an isn't exact science. I was simply trying to push my engine/transmission as hard as I could to get it as clean as I could after my oil and filter change. I made an executive call as the vehicle owner to push it, and may have damaged something, oh well, the truck was free.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

You don't need an OBD reader, just a paperclip. Check this page out:
http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/
Free & easy. The connectors are between the power distribution block and the blower housing.

You definitely need a pan gasket, just try to find one that's all rubber, not cork or cork/rubber mix. The one I got for mine was a vacuumed to a piece of cardboard with plastic, it had both the filter & gasket. I believe they call it "carded".

Your trans has got to hold more than 3 quarts. I'd bet the torque converter itself holds more than that. I just looked in my Owners Guide (see signature) and the 2 wheel drive holds 9.7 quarts and the 4x4 holds 10 quarts. That's not the pan, that's the whole system. I'd imagine the pan is at LEAST 4-5. Like I said, I had to put in 5-7 just to get mine to engage.
Also, you're not flushing, you're replacing half the fluid. With those miles, I'd recommend getting a in-line filter going for a few hundred miles, especially with the Seafoam knocking crud loose. Then drop the pan and you'll end up replacing half the fluid. This makes it easy on the system.

Torquing is very important. You're connecting a steel pan to an aluminum housing. It's pretty easy to strip threads on aluminum and torquing means you're applying an even force across the entire pan. Doing it hand tight, you might get more tired towards the end and torque them less.

I can't find my OBD connector for the life of me. Is it free hanging or connected to something? I checked, and it does come with a rubber gasket. I'm going to start searching around for the parts for an in line filter and just buy another oil filter to mount somewhere, I like the idea of having up front like that. I'd imagine the magnets are to pull particle to the side of the filter right?

I was doing a once over last night and opened my rad cap and realized the fluid level was only halfway down on the rad. I'm HOPING that's all the light was. I haven't been able to drive after filling it because Colorado is being hit hard by this cold front and snow.

Do you know what inside diameter tubing you used to connect it to the lines?

 

[SlipknoT74769]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-1027/applications

I would imagine with that bypass adapter, I would need to find a 22mm x 1.5mm threaded oil filter, right?

 

[Maniak]

I can't find my OBD connector for the life of me. Is it free hanging or connected to something

It is on the passenger side, under the hood, by the firewall. It "was" kinda clipped onto something when it came from the factory but over the years it has probably become free floating. Mine always ends up hanging down between the airbox and the ac/heater box.

As for the external transmission filter...
Use 3/8" ID 300 psi Transmission "hose". I just picked it up from a local parts store (Oreilly's didn't have it) for around $2.50/foot. I cut my hard line so I could put it inline and I double clamped the rubber hose to the hard line.

For the Filter mount, just get a remote oil filter mount that for for the PH8A filter (standard SAE filter for most fords).

I mounted mine on the radiator core support where the Charcoal filter (evap system) used to bolt to. I moved my Charcoal filter up between the headlight and the coolant overflow. I don't know if there is room there for 1993 and 1994's though...

Quick shot of my filter setup..

~Mark

 

[SlipknoT74769]

It is on the passenger side, under the hood, by the firewall. It "was" kinda clipped onto something when it came from the factory but over the years it has probably become free floating. Mine always ends up hanging down between the airbox and the ac/heater box.

As for the external transmission filter...
Use 3/8" ID 300 psi Transmission "hose". I just picked it up from a local parts store (Oreilly's didn't have it) for around $2.50/foot. I cut my hard line so I could put it inline and I double clamped the rubber hose to the hard line.

For the Filter mount, just get a remote oil filter mount that for for the PH8A filter (standard SAE filter for most fords).

I mounted mine on the radiator core support where the Charcoal filter (evap system) used to bolt to. I moved my Charcoal filter up between the headlight and the coolant overflow. I don't know if there is room there for 1993 and 1994's though...

Quick shot of my filter setup..

~Mark

I took her for a ride and after filling the rad and overflow tank, the light has gone away! I'm so glad I didn't damage anything.

I'm going to order that bypass adapter and find some tubing this weekend. I'l probably run it for another week after that to clear out more debris, then drop the pan and replace the internal filter and whatever fluid drops from the pan.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I used the Trans-Dapt 1028 filter bracket:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-1028

You definitely want the 3/8" 300PSI line. My local NAPA calls it "push-loc" hose. You will need 1/2" MPT to 3/8" hose barb fittings. I found they were about $5 a piece.

Take a look at my setup, it's up front, hanging on the bottom of the radiator support:

 

[Maniak]

I used the Trans-Dapt 1028 filter bracket:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-1028

That is the same one I'm running now and works great..

If you want the lines to come out the side instead of out the top, use the Hayden 2106. It's about $10 more than the trans dapt one..

~Mark

 

[SlipknoT74769]

That is the same one I'm running now and works great..

If you want the lines to come out the side instead of out the top, use the Hayden 2106. It's about $10 more than the trans dapt one..

~Mark

I'll probably end up getting that one, I like that it has a mounting bracket already molded into it. No conversion for the oil filter thread end of it right? A standard oil filter will screw right in?

I'm familiar with tube diameters and fittings from my water cooled computer, so this should be fairly easy for me .. ...

 

[Maniak]

I'll probably end up getting that one, I like that it has a mounting bracket already molded into it. No conversion for the oil filter thread end of it right? A standard oil filter will screw right in?
<snip>. ...

Both the Hayden and Trans Dapt ones posted above have 3/4 x 16 thread for the oil filte AND both have the mounting bracket built in. As for what filter to use, that is the same as the oil filter on your '94.. Motorcraft Fl1a, Fram ph8a, Wix 515515 filters etc..

like [MENTION=241671]natenkiki2004[/MENTION] mentioned.. use 3/8" npt to 3/8 hose barb to convert from the hose to the filter mount/bracket/thingy.

Also, as for how often to change it.. I do the same as [MENTION=241671]natenkiki2004[/MENTION] does.. When I change the oil filter, I change that external trans filter and replace the quart of trans fluid you lost..

~Mark

 

[SammyM00782]

Just my two cents on the SeaFoam process, I took one of the Home Depot spray bottles I have, filled it with the SeaFoam, connected that brake booster hose and just opened the nozzle until I felt I got the desired rough idle. Good thing about that is you're not dumping solid fluid in there. It atomizes like a fuel injector more consistently and even though you can still flood it up the nozzle doesn't allow THAT much fluid to go in to cause a hydrolock. Just remember not to tighten the bottle all the way or it'll suck itself to death lol.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Just my two cents on the SeaFoam process, I took one of the Home Depot spray bottles I have, filled it with the SeaFoam, connected that brake booster hose and just opened the nozzle until I felt I got the desired rough idle. Good thing about that is you're not dumping solid fluid in there. It atomizes like a fuel injector more consistently and even though you can still flood it up the nozzle doesn't allow THAT much fluid to go in to cause a hydrolock. Just remember not to tighten the bottle all the way or it'll suck itself to death lol.

That's a really good idea, I'll have to try it on my next treatment. I was using a regulated funnel and could hear the windstorm of it pulling and was just adding small amounts. I have a feeling it wasn't enough/too slow but on my next treatment I'm going to add enough to hear a rough idle, but not enough to hydrolock it, I would cry if I lost my Baby 8(

 

[SammyM00782]

That's a really good idea, I'll have to try it on my next treatment. I was using a regulated funnel and could hear the windstorm of it pulling and was just adding small amounts. I have a feeling it wasn't enough/too slow but on my next treatment I'm going to add enough to hear a rough idle, but not enough to hydrolock it, I would cry if I lost my Baby 8(

Tbh I don't even know what made me think of using it but so far I've done it to my old Geo, my Trailblazer SS and now the Explorer and it's done great. You can essentially "set it and forget it" and kill the engine once it's empty so you're not wasting the product. Seafoam and the slightly less expensive Gumout seem to work the same way. ****, they even smell the same lol. Get whatever happens to be on sale, I got two cans of the Gumout for 5 bucks at Autozone a few months back. I know it doesn't say to but I used the whole damn can in the engine and another 1/2-1/2 in the gas and oil. The Explorer completely fogged out my entire neighborhood :

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Tbh I don't even know what made me think of using it but so far I've done it to my old Geo, my Trailblazer SS and now the Explorer and it's done great. You can essentially "set it and forget it" and kill the engine once it's empty so you're not wasting the product. Seafoam and the slightly less expensive Gumout seem to work the same way. ****, they even smell the same lol. Get whatever happens to be on sale, I got two cans of the Gumout for 5 bucks at Autozone a few months back. I know it doesn't say to but I used the whole damn can in the engine and another 1/2-1/2 in the gas and oil. The Explorer completely fogged out my entire neighborhood :

I haven't tried gumout, but I might for my next treatment. I don't care what anyone else says, I KNOW SeaFoam helped my engine and transmisson. I have more power, it's less jerky, smooth idle, I have no regrets in my treatment.

 

[SammyM00782]

I haven't tried gumout, but I might for my next treatment. I don't care what anyone else says, I KNOW SeaFoam helped my engine and transmisson. I have more power, it's less jerky, smooth idle, I have no regrets in my treatment.

There's definitely haters out there who believe all that stuff is bogus and that's fine, keep paying someone 79.95 for the same treatments lol. Helped my POS Geo bunches and that thing went from getting around 27 mpg back to around 44 so I'm sold. Of course YMMV but it really does help out. Good luck buddy and happy cleaning!