Issue With Front Axel Or Manual Hubs Need Help!

[THE PARTS MAN]

I changed my auto locking hubs to warn manual locking hubs last year. I used them right after the install, they worked great. So we got some snow last night here in pa. I went to lock them in and the drivers side was not locked in or something. it made a grabbing, grinding sound. and it pulled bad to the drivers side. i figure the the drivers side is not locked in or something is wrong with the hub for the face when i am in 2wd and the hubs are off everything is normal. i have a 92 x eddie bower edi. what could this be the hubs or is something wrong with the axle. i also am 100 % sure its the drivers side with that one locked in and the other side on free and not in 4wd it pulls bad but with the pass side locked not in 4wd i have no issue. so could some one please help me thanks

 

[MrShorty]

Did you get the driver's side completely back together? I've heard of cases where the C-clip on the end of the axleshaft that holds the axleshaft in the spindle is forgotten or broken, which allows the axleshaft to "suck" back into the spindle where it can't engage the hub.

 

[THE PARTS MAN]

wow good question i will need to check that but i used my 4wd about 6 weeks ago granted it was for like 30 seconds and i had no issues but i will look into this tonight

thanks for the reply

 

[THE PARTS MAN]

nope c clip there when i installed the hub and tryed it again it locked so i thought ok cool its fix not i unlocked it the relocked it and it started to slip but the center where the hub is was not turning . so i think maybe a half shaft or something along that line

 

[MrShorty]

I expect a broken half shaft or u-joint would be immediately apparent.

Follow the power flow: Power comes from the transfer case to the front driveshaft to the front differential to the axleshafts to the hubs to the wheels. Recognize that the front diff is open, so power can easily only go to one axleshaft. With that in mind, grab the front driveshaft by hand (t-case in 2H, hubs in lock position) and rotate. See what happens.

 

[THE PARTS MAN]

well here it is I got a chance to really look at this yesterday, i belive i have a broken half shaft. Reason being i got both front tires off the ground locked the hubs and turned the drive shaft, the pass side turned with no issue, the dirvers side did not move. i pulled the drivers side tire and hub and turned the axel by hand with the pass side unlocked. what i felt was a grinding and the drive shaft did not turn so am i correct a half shaft. it thats what it is how hard is this to fix. i have no garage its about 30 degrees out now so i know its going to suck but is this a hard fix. any and all help that anyone has would be great thank you

ed

 

[MrShorty]

Getting closer, but, remember, that front diff is open (unless you have an aftermarket differential in there).

Reason being i got both front tires off the ground locked the hubs and turned the drive shaft, the pass side turned with no issue, the dirvers side did not move.

Nothing unusual here. With an open diff, power follows the path of least resistance, and it doesn't take much resistance under these conditions for the power to only go one way.

i pulled the drivers side tire and hub and turned the axel by hand with the pass side unlocked. what i felt was a grinding and the drive shaft did not turn so am i correct a half shaft.

The fact that the drive shaft didn't turn isn't surprising -- the passenger axleshaft was probably turning instead. The grinding, however, does sound bad.

As I noted earlier, a broken axleshaft should be apparent just by looking at it. The only exception would be if the splines are stripped or something like that.

Here's what I think I would do next.

Repeat that second test, but with the passenger hub locked and the passenger wheel on the ground (so that side can't spin). Then I would probably tear that side apart and separate the spindle from the knuckle (might be a good time for a brake job if the brakes are looking worn, you'll also want to give the wheel bearings a once over while you have them out). The hardest part of this is getting the spindle off of the knuckle, hopefully it will come off easily for you.

Inspect the needle bearings inside the spindle that the axleshaft rides on. These are often neglected and have been known to get pretty rusty. I wouldn't be entirely surprised if the problem is in these needle bearings.

At this point, the axleshaft should slide right out through the knuckle, which will give you an opportunity to inspect the axleshaft. If you don't see any damage to the axleshaft, then the problem could be in the differential.

 

[THE PARTS MAN]

Ok done no change at all still does not move the drive shaft. i also forgot to add when in 4wd driving slow the tire clunks and its visable that it moves almost like a wabble but when it transfer case is in 2wd no issue ugh sigh makes my day........

 

[THE PARTS MAN]

Ok i had some time to look into this issue. It was one said that i should check my u joint on the drivers side where i hear the clunking (spelling off sorry) i did not have time to look at this untill now. but does any one have a picture where that u joint would be. its enclosed but i think thats the issue

any help would be great

 

[DeRocha]

If you turn the wheels all the way to one side the steering knuckle will open up enough for you to inspect the U-joints. The stub axle U-Joint is located in-between the upper and lower ball-joints where the TTB begins.

 

[THE PARTS MAN]

ok will inspect after work. Thank you