Key Chain Remote -Anti Theft -Key Pad No Longer Work

[itzbinnice]

After recently replacing my batteryon my 95 XLT, I discovered several days later the below malfunctions.

1- The remote no longer locks or unlocks doors or panic button working.
2- The Anti Theft Light no longer appears when locking the doors with the switch on the arm rest (drivers side), but all doors do lock.
3- The keypad no longer lights when touched or unlocks the car.
4- The Auto Door Lock feature no longer works when putting the Explorer in gear.

I have the dealer issued key pad security code but it does nothing when entered. I checked the fuses in the fuse panel and Power Distribution Box and all appear good. The key pad was replaced several years ago so it's not the original but it was working.

All accessories work so I'm baffled on what it can be.
I'm thinking it has to be a bad relay somewhere not sending power to the keypad and circuitry for the remote. I have two remotes with good batteries and neither work.

Any suggestions on what the cause may be are sincerely appreciated.

 

[50hJoe]

I'm not sure if all these things go back to the antitheft module, but you could try entering program mode for the remotes (cycle key from off to on 8x and door locks should cycle) and at least see if that works...if not then at least you know the module is not responding for whatever reason.

 

[itzbinnice]

I'm not sure if all these things go back to the antitheft module, but you could try entering program mode for the remotes (cycle key from off to on 8x and door locks should cycle) and at least see if that works...if not then at least you know the module is not responding for whatever reason.

I've already tried that both turning key 8x times and 5 times as others had suggested. I had the radio on to confirm it was gong to the on position.
Tried this numerous times and door locks never moved.

I was able to download a wiring diagram for the 95 XLT, I believe the problem is in the RAP module perhaps not getting power. I'm not sure how to test the wiring going into the Rap module. I see two wires that supply power to the Rap module.
#645 White\Lgt Blue (from fuse 12 in Power Distribution Box)
#1002 Black\Pink (from fuse 20 in fuse panel)
BOTH THESE FUSES ARE GOOD.

I will need to take the trim off the drivers side rear quater panel to access the Rap Module, however it's raining out so I will have to wait until tomorrow to test. I will try putting a 12V test light on the two power wires mentioned after discconnecting the plugs from the module to ascertain if the module is receiving power.

This is quite frustrating since everything worked fine prior to the battery being replaced. However, it may very well be just a coincidence that the malfunction took place after the new battery install.

Note; I can't attach the wiring diagram since it's in .PDF format and the forum doesn't allow that.

 

[edmiller1976]

Any luck? I am having the same issue. Thank you

 

[itzbinnice]

Any luck? I am having the same issue. Thank you

No luck as yet but I believe the Rap module is at fault.
This morning I removed the trim and removed the Rap module.

As mentioned I saw two power feeds to the Rap module so I checked out the wiring to the Rap module which I disconnected.

#645 White\Lgt Blue (from fuse 12 in Power Distribution Box)
This is constant power - There was 12V at the module connector.

#1002 Black\Pink (from fuse 20 in fuse panel)
This supplies power with the key on - There was power to the connector with the key on but none with the key off.

So this tells me the Rap module is receiving the input voltege needed.

The Rap module has 10 plastic clasps that are easily unfastened and you can slide the circuit board out. I inspected the board but coudn't see any burn marks in the circuitry, perhaps a resistor burned out but that's far beyond my ability to check.

Since the module is receiving power I can ony assume the Rap model is bad
since I'm unaware of any further tests to perform to see if the module is defective. I was hoping someone would post some suggestions but there seems to be little interest in this post.

I have the part # of the module for a 95 XLT tha't printed on a label on the module.
It is F67F-15K602-AD.

I read that some of these units DO NOT come with a antenna in plug. My unit has an antenna in plug so I want to replace it with an exact match.

I will now attempt to purchase a replacement Rap module online for a fair price. I can only hope this is the problem.
I will update this thread as soon as I receive the unit and see if this corrected my issue. Hopefully somebody can jump in and maybe advise what tests I can do to to confirm the Rap module is bad.

 

[itzbinnice]

Follow Up
I am a bit disappointed for not receiving any responses to my post, but I hope to keep the thread going so others may benefit should they experience the same problem.

I was not able to find a NEW replacement Rap module no matter how hard I searched. It may be the module model #is so old it’s no longer available. I prefer a new one over used since it's a gamble on a used one.
I was able to get an identical match to mine on Ebay for 30.00 with free priority shipping. It appears it is sold by a salvage yard which I have reservations about proper functioning. With a new one, if that didn’t work it would seem I have other issues and the Rap module was not at fault. With a used replacement not working I wouldn’t know if it’s defective or other issues are causing the problem.

For reference purposes below are some pics of both mine and the replacement unit for a 1995 4dr XLT. I believe the same unit works from 95 to 97. These 95-97 units have the antenna plug on them where the antenna cable goes.
The antenna cable is for the receiving the FOB remote signals.

Another topic I'd like to mention is the programming sequence for the 95 XLT
for using your old FOB remotes. I've noticed on some sites it says the sequence should be 8X, but other sources state 5X for the 95-97 models.

1. Enter Program Mode:

a. For Model Years 1995-97: Cycle the ignition from OFF to RUN/ACC five (5) times within 10 seconds, ending in RUN/ACC, or cycle the ignition from OFF to START three (3) times within 10 seconds, ending in RUN. The power door locks should cycle LOCK to UNLOCK to confirm entrance into Program Mode.

2. Press any button on a remote entry transmitter. The power door locks should cycle LOCK then UNLOCK to acknowledge transmitter code.

3. Repeat Step 2 for any additional remote entry transmitters that need to be programmed to the vehicle.

4. Turn the ignition switch to OFF to exit Program Mode. To confirm Program Mode has been exited, the power door locks will cycle LOCK then UNLOCK one last time.

Pic Of My Original RAP Module

Pic Of My Original Rap Module Wiring



Pic Of Replacement Used Rap Module



Pic Of Wiring For Replacement Used Rap Module



Once I receive the replacement Rap module and install, I will post back with my results.
Should know quickly if it works or not by simply connecting the wiring and entering the 5 digit code on the module to the keyless entry pad.

 

[edmiller1976]

Thanks for all the info. I am having the same issues but mine is a 2002. SO I need to see if I have a RAP module. I just pulled the drivers side panel apart as I heard that sometimes wires break in the boot area between the door and vehicle. No luck there. I am going to do research on RAP module for mine now. Thanks

 

[itzbinnice]

Thanks for all the info. I am having the same issues but mine is a 2002. SO I need to see if I have a RAP module. I just pulled the drivers side panel apart as I heard that sometimes wires break in the boot area between the door and vehicle. No luck there. I am going to do research on RAP module for mine now. Thanks

I believe broken wires in the boot area are not my problem, that may occur if power door locks or windows are not operating and perhaps the keypad.
Even if the keypad didn't work the Anti Theft should arm itself when all doors are locked. Everything works for me except no Anti Theft arming or using the FOB remote. It all points to the Rap Module being defective.

As far as your 2002 Rap modules location, it is NOT under the trim area in the jack compartment in the drivers side rear quarter panel.
For your 2002 location click on the link below and scroll down to post #6 to learn the location.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151376

Upon further research, in my owners manual I have found another possible cause. There is a Anti Theft relay under the dash which I was not aware of. If the replacement used Rap Module doesn’t work I will rip the dash apart and check that relay. I doubt that is the problem but I will need to check it out. The Ebay seller hasn’t shipped my Rap Module yet so it won’t be until Wednesday or Thursday that I can install it. I will post when it is installed and see if it resolved my issue.

Below is a pic of the anti Theft Relay location for my 95 XLT, For newer XLT’s, your owners manual should have it under “Servicing Your Explorer”.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Hopefully the replacement RAP will work for you. However more often than not the issue is not one of getting power, it is a grounding wire that is corroded or broken. Suggest you test the ground wire in the plug.

 

[edmiller1976]

Thanks for the info. I did find my module and looked up the part number I found a used on on ebay. however the last letter in the part number is different mine is 1L2T-14B207-AF the only one I could find on Ebay is 1L2T-14B207-AE. Does anyone know if there is a big different in the "e" vs. "f"? I heard in an other post early 2002 models have a different plug that later 2002 models.

 

[itzbinnice]

Hopefully the replacement RAP will work for you. However more often than not the issue is not one of getting power, it is a grounding wire that is corroded or broken. Suggest you test the ground wire in the plug.

Good suggestion, that will be my next step if the replacement doesn’t work and before tearing apart the dash looking for the relay. I am hesitant to check for ground now since if by chance I jump the wrong wire to ground I may cause more damage. I have to study the wire schematic closely and only jump any wire I am positive needs a ground.

Thanks for the info. I did find my module and looked up the part number I found a used on on ebay. however the last letter in the part number is different mine is 1L2T-14B207-AF the only one I could find on Ebay is 1L2T-14B207-AE. Does anyone know if there is a big different in the "e" vs. "f"? I heard in an other post early 2002 models have a different plug that later 2002 models.

I’m sorry can’t help you there regarding the last letters of the part #.
When looking for mine I had difficulty finding the last two letters to match.
Mine ended in AD, I saw some ending in AC but I have no idea what the difference is. I was fortunate to get an exact match which gives me piece of mind.

Hopefully someone can jump in and advise what the last two letters refer to.

 

[itzbinnice]

Keyless Entry Working Again

I received the salvage yard replacement RAP Module today and installed it, EVERYTHING IS WORKING AGAIN.
At first I thought it was defective since once installed the first thing I did was sit in the drivers seat and lock the doors with the console lock switch. I expected the Theft light to illuminate but it did not. I have come to learn it only activates the theft light when locking the doors with the FOB remote.

I then tried entering the 5 digit code from the new Rap unit to the keypad, it worked and unlocked the doors.
Next I entered Program Mode to program my two remotes.

This is for Model Years 1995-97: 5X cycling worked for me.
I believe the sequence for later models is cycling 8X

1- Cycle the ignition from OFF to RUN/ACC five (5) times within 10 seconds, ending in RUN/ACC, or cycle the ignition from OFF to START three (3) times within 10 seconds, ending in RUN. The power door locks should cycle LOCK to UNLOCK to confirm entrance into Program Mode.

2. Press any button on a remote entry transmitter. The power door locks should cycle LOCK then UNLOCK to acknowledge transmitter code.

3. Repeat Step 2 for any additional remote entry transmitters that need to be programmed to the vehicle.

4. Turn the ignition switch to OFF to exit Program Mode. To confirm Program Mode has been exited, the power door locks will cycle LOCK then UNLOCK one last time.

I am so happy the replacement worked, usually things don’t work for me the first time.
I was reluctant to buy a used part for 30.00 but it worked and I’m grateful for that.

I still can’t understand how simply replacing the battery damaged the Rap Module.
In my research I discovered the was a Service Bulletin on Explorers stating that the seats can cause static electricity and short out the Rap module. I can’t understand that since my seats don’t have memory and I never moved them. Maybe Eddie Bauer units have them (seat memory) that connects to the Rap Module.

To read about it click on the link and scroll down to Post 10.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/197670-95-explorer-keyless-remote.html

In summary, if none of the features work with your Keyless Entry system there is a good possibility the Rap Module is defective.
If some features don't work, such as door locks, keypads, etc, it can be fuses , relays, or ground wire issues you will need to troubleshoot.

 

[Rokk]

THANK YOU.. And a follow up question

(If you want to skip my tale and just read my question, its the last paragraph. But I find that my tale is descriptive and informative.)

Thank you so much. I am printing out this and sticking it in my repair manual so I have it again for later. I am working on mine now. It hasn't worked since I bought it and thought it was just the keypad and door since my door was very bad. All the internal components were broken, it wouldn't lock, and could only be opened from the outside handle. Well, my wife had her legs hanging out the window while I was working on my Nissan. She was just sitting there reading a book. She tried to open the door but her legs kept it from just swinging open, so she kept yanking the handle... Then that peg on the inside broke. Went to a Pull-A-Part and got a new door. I snuck one of those little 12v batteries (like from a home alarm or booster box) in my tool box and hooked it up so I could make sure that the components and window motor worked. So I know that this keypad works. Got the door on and everything, tested the buttons... and nothing. Led me to the RAP Module.

After my long story, here's my delima:

I unplugged both the plugs. I unplugged the top one first, a whining noise came from the dashboard. Like a small, quiet, yet very annoying alarm. Like what a Smurf would have on his car. I unplug the second one and then the Smurf alarm quits. I plug the second one back in and there goes Papa Smurf again. So I plug up the first plug again and WHAM HONK HONK WHAM! (Not an accurate sound). The alarm starts sounding. I didn't know my Explorer had an alarm. I've never heard it before. I unplugged it again, then unplugged the second plug again to stop Papa Smurf from crying some more.

With both unplugged, the unlock feature from the door panel (inside) still works. I can unlock it (via key or the button on the inside of the door). The THEFT light is still there when I lock up. All that mumbo jumbo.

I played around with it a bit, too. It drives and everything with the Papa Smurf plug in. The small little alarm quits when I start the car, then continues when I disconnect. It drives and everything with both unplugged. Now it won't start with both plugged in.

'95 Ford Explorer XLT, with every single bell and whistle.

Now I have told you my tale, here is my question: When you plugged your RAP up, did your horn blare or do you think this is indicative of a bad RAP? If so, I can head back to PullAPart and get me a new one for a few dollars. Mine is the exact same as yours I believe. It has the antenna (which I am happy about since I now know I can get a keyfob if I get all this mumbo jumbo working again).

Thanks!

 

[Rokk]

Also, when you hit the button on the inside of the doors to lock/unlock, did they work with the bad RAP?

 

[Rokk]

One last thing. Is there any way to get that wiring diagram from you if you still have it? I tried to locate it, but cannot.

I plan to experiment on it until I find something that works. If I don't hear back in a few, I will head to PAP and snag a new module anyway. I plan on pulling the horn fuse and trying out a few things. I will also break out my multi-meter and check the circuitry.

 

[itzbinnice]

When you plugged your RAP up, did your horn blare or do you think this is indicative of a bad RAP? If so, I can head back to PullAPart and get me a new one for a few dollars. Mine is the exact same as yours I believe. It has the antenna (which I am happy about since I now know I can get a keyfob if I get all this mumbo jumbo working again).

There were no sounds when I plugged in the replacement Rap Module.
Either you got a bad Rap Module or you have other issues.

Also, when you hit the button on the inside of the doors to lock/unlock, did they work with the bad RAP?

YES everything worked properly other than the remote not activating\decativating alarm or door activation

One last thing. Is there any way to get that wiring diagram from you if you still have it? I tried to locate it, but cannot.

Follow the instructions below and you can get wiring diagrams for your 95 Explorer, that is where I got mine.

Ford Explorer Free Wiring Diagrams
You can find wiring diagrams at:
http://search.ebscohost.com/
Sign in as:
User ID= RRCC
Password= rebsco

Then click on Auto Repai Reference Center.
Then enter Year, Make, & Model Number
Now Select Diagrams and choose "Anti Theft".

I hope this helps you in solving your issue.

 

[Rokk]

Hey. Thanks for the reply!
I went to pull a part and got a two new RAP modules since they were only $8 a piece. The first one didn't work. The second one only unlocks. I found out that the problem is that the 7 key does not work on my door. Also, the light went out on it. But the original RAP module is junk. So now I can at least unlock if my wife or I lock the keys in the car!

Thanks again for all the help. I will print out the wiring diagram and stick it in the glove box in case of future need. Hopefully, It will also help me out with the other testing on the 7 key.

 

[itzbinnice]

Glad I could help although you still have a problem.
Since you determined the 7 key is not working on your keypad, if the 2nd replacement Rapp unit you got has a 7 in the 5 digit code, then it won't program properly.

If you can, return to "pull a part" and get a replacement keypad, hopefully the light will also work on that one so you can solve that problem also. You will need to pull the drivers side door panel off so bring tools that will get the job done.
Try to get one in black since it’s a neutral color and will fit in with any paint color of your vehicle.
Here is a used one on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-96-97-...-HARNESS-/181669112146?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

It seems that these Rap units and keypads experience problems more than they should

 

[Rokk]

Yea. I am thinking of going back this week. I have a nissan I am working on, so I always need parts. haha. I will get the keypad and do trials.

I did some research on the electric shock to the module though. From what I gather, it is the seats being put up and down that causes a static electricity from the fuzzy carpet on the back of them. It somehow leaks to the electronics in the panel and zaps the module.

It looks like this keypad on my door was pressed with a key though. I am thinking they destroyed the 7 key this way. And the light was working before I got the door, and all my electronics check out via multimeter, and the light should be coming on. So I am thinking I must have busted the tiny little bulb in the keypad when I was transporting the door. That is my best guess.

Thanks for the diagrams too. If it hadn't been for those, I couldn't have checked for the electricity to the keypad lightbulb.

 

[itzbinnice]

I suggest when you install a Rap Module, you unlock all doors then disconnect the battery.
Be sure to write down the 5 digit code from the replacement Rap before installation so you can program it after the install. It's difficult to read the numbers once it's installed.

I don't think you damaged the bulb in the keypad when transporting the door, it was probably already burned out. My original keypads light died first, then at a much later date the entire keypad no longer worked.

You never did say if the second Rap unit you say is also defective has a # 7 in the 5 digit code.

Hopefully you can score both a functional Rap and Keypad on your next visit to PullAPart. $8.00 for a Rap unit is a very cheap price considering I paid 30.00 from a salvage yard on Ebay. I'd gladly pay 30.00 rather than the 16.00 you paid for the two from a labor standpoint, I'm very grateful it worked the first time.