Leak At Front of Block

[JusTheUsual]

Yeah that's what I been thinking with that k seal. It's like $15 at advance. I just didn't want to spend that to have no results and be wasted money when I seen the bars it was like half that. That timing cover does leak pretty good. It's not bad but any worse it would be bad.

 

[koda2000]

Yeah that's what I been thinking with that k seal. It's like $15 at advance. I just didn't want to spend that to have no results and be wasted money when I seen the bars it was like half that. That timing cover does leak pretty good. It's not bad but any worse it would be bad.

I've used Bar's in the past and it's never worked. The K-Seal works and it's worth every penny. I had a constant drip which was pretty bad.

 

[lobo411]

How hard to drop oil pan and get it to re-seal when done?

Unless yours is different from my 96 4.0 OHV, you don't drop the pan at all. The timing cover has a couple of bolts that go into the pan, but you don't have to touch the pan itself.

 

[koda2000]

Unless yours is different from my 96 4.0 OHV, you don't drop the pan at all. The timing cover has a couple of bolts that go into the pan, but you don't have to touch the pan itself.

on the 5.0 you do need to drop the front of the oil pan a bit.

 

[JusTheUsual]

so on the 4.0 ohv you don't have to touch the oil pan at all?

 

[lobo411]

on the 5.0 you do need to drop the front of the oil pan a bit.

Oh...ya I'd do stop leak too if I had a 5.0.

 

[lobo411]

so on the 4.0 ohv you don't have to touch the oil pan at all?

Nope. A couple of the lower bolts on the timing cover thread into the oil pan, but that's the most of it. Really, the worst of the job is getting the dang crank pulley back on. The oven thing helps, but it's still a PITA.

 

[JusTheUsual]

I need to find a new timing cover...if that's the piece of metal that came out with the bolt to the water pump that wont make water pump stay in all the way. It's one of the bottom bolts

 

[lobo411]

Here's the definitive thread on it:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2881779

 

[fast_dave]

Here's the definitive thread on it:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2881779

What he said

 

[JusTheUsual]

So the water jacket just ends with just a gasket stopping it at timing cover and the gasket is the end of water jacket and that is why is it seeping out of timing cover?

 

[fast_dave]

Short answer: The two water jackets (left and right) come from the block, through the timing chain cover, and enter the water pump, which is attached to the front of the timing chain cover.

The teflon coated green paper gasket between the front of the engine block, and the rear of the timing chain cover, is what fails on the 4.0 OHV V-6 Engine.

Post Number 29 - Link BELOW - these pictures are worth 1,000 words

Link: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/....php?p=2881779

 

[rodb]

How long do the bolts need to be to get the balancer back on. Want to make sure before I go looking for a tool.

 

[fast_dave]

How long do the bolts need to be to get the balancer back on. Want to make sure before I go looking for a tool.

Take a look at the write up

If you pre-heat the balancer in the oven, it literally slips right on - no need to mechanically re-install with a tool - that's how it was in my case.

As a warm & fuzzy backup, have a piece of 2x4 close by if (in your case) you need a little more persuasion to slip it on

Hope that helps!

 

[JusTheUsual]

oh I se now. And one of those 2 bolt holes on the bottom above crank is where I pulled the metal out with bolt so bolt wont tighten down and leaks some there

 

[rodb]

Ok thanks Dave, I was going to try and find a longer bolt but will try your oven idea first.

 

[gmanpaint]

Just to throw this in the mix here...

Are you sure the leak is from the timing chain cover?

The 4.0L OHV has a notorious issue with the lower intake gasket splitting at the water jacket on either the front or back. This is difficult to find the leak because of where it leaks, and runs down the block at various places. I have had to do this once, and about to do it again.

If your sure it is the timing cover, then never mind any of that. I just thought to throw that out there because I didn't see it brought up in the thread.

 

[fast_dave]

Ok thanks Dave, I was going to try and find a longer bolt but will try your oven idea first.

Don't forget to have a pair of thick leather work gloves

 

[JusTheUsual]

I just bought and put in that k seal. Well the rad. fluid looked like at least 3 if not 4inches down from the top so I figured it would fit in that whole lil bottle and started pouring it in and only like 3/4th of it went in before over flowed and lost about 1/8th of it spilling over and about 1/8th of it left in lil bottle it came in. I could of sworn rad. fluid being down that much it would of fit that lil bottle in. So maybe about 3/4 of that lil bottle is in and maybe 1/8th left in bottle so I will see how it goes over the next couple days

 

[koda2000]

if you got 3/4 of the 8 oz. bottle in, that should be enough if it's going to work for you. did you shake the bottle well before pouring it in and did you let the engine run for 20-30 mins after you put it in? as I said earlier, it stopped my leak almost instantly. I didn't mention that I also tried it on another 5.0 that appeared to be leaking from the water pump weep hole. I didn't expect it to work, as it was leaking bad and seemed seal related, but it even stopped that leak (again, almost instantly) and it hasn't leaked again. that was 6 months ago.

Hope it works for you.