Left the Air box bottom part?

[MEXEXP]

Leave the Air box bottom part?

My Universal K&N cone filter is coming in this week and analyzing the stock airbox, should I leave the bottom part of the air box in, so cool air coming in from the hose thru the grille still work or yank it out completly? anyone who's done this modification please shed some light, Please, Thank you.

 

[MEXEXP]

No answer?

Anyone??

 

[bigred93explrer]

when i put in my kkm intkae i yanked out the whole airbox but i left the hose part where the air comes in. IT works just fine

 

[frickea86]

i have a kkm and its about the same thing, i yanked the whole air box and it works great, u'll love it...laterz

adam

 

[MEXEXP]

Thanks, for answering, that's will I do, can't wait to put it on.

 

[EliteConcept]

what i would do if i went to the conical kkm or K&N is i would find a heat shield. So it would block the hot air coming from the engine and suck up as much cooler as it can...

just a thought

 

[jack1.1]

I hate to sound dumb, but can someone tell me how to remove the bottom portion of the stock 5.0 air box? Where are the bolts, how do you get to them, what's the trick here?

thanks

 

[X~FACTOR]

Hey Jack. Check this thread out.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=89998

 

[blue88mustang]

The mustang crowd has proven that open element filters lose HP/TQ compared to in-fender mounted filters.

On the dyno, you usually run the session with the hood up and a fan in front of the vehicle to simulate driving and air moving over the engine. However, a test was done on a CAI kit versus an open element power pipe setup with the hood CLOSED.

I can't remember the exact #'s, but with the hood closed and the fan on at the front of the mustang, the CAI kit made something like 4rwhp and 3rwtq more than the open element filter.

Moral of the story, is that you need to find a way to isolate the air filter from the hot engine bay. Also with an open filter, you are more prone to having idle problems, drivability issues, Power/performance, etc due to the "fan wash" that you get from the radiator fan.

It takes about 10 seconds to get the ACT(air charge temp) sensor to read cooler air after sitting in traffic in my cobra. This is even with a CAI kit (made of plastic tubing) on it. Adding a "ram air" setup to the cobra cause the temps to fall much quicker and stay a couple of degrees lower while cruising, but there was just too much crap being sucked into the air box to deal with that setup.

Long story short, I am a proponent of keeping any and all HOT engine bay air from being sucked into the engine via an open element filter. Custom fab a heat shield if you have to and try to avoid adding any bends right before the MAF (which shouldn't be a problem in the Explorer application).

 

[aldive]

Dump the entire factory airbox.

Measure your IAT at any speed over about 30 MPH and you will see that it is within a couple degrees of ambient outside temp. You simply do not need anything other than a KKM or K&N filter.