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Looking for a New Alarm Setup - Any Suggestions?

Cali' Explorer

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Joined
December 14, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Sacramento, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 XLT 5.0
Well, here's the deal. I'm moving to a new apartment complex that isn't gated. They haven't had any more break-ins than normal for this area, but I want to do something extra to protect my car. Currently, all I have is the factory remote keyless entry (with door key pad). Now, from what I understand this disables the ignition from starting unless you have the right PATS key, although my PATS sensor must not be working as any copied key will work.

What I'm hoping to find is a unit that will work as much as possible with what's already in my Explorer. I'd like to get a vibration sensor as well as perhaps door and hood/rear hatch sensors and Engine Cutoff.

I did find this one unit on Crutchfield that supposedly works with my current system, but was curious what you guys suggested. Thanks in advance.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-7lqtBRyI3VE/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=801&I=514AL100C
 



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Just step up and find specialty shop to buy a Viper from, and have them install it, it'll be well worth it. I have the 791xv 2 way. and i like it.
 






Does the viper integrate into the Explorer's Keyless entry system? What I'm trying to avoid is eliminating the Ford System because I like the security of the keypad's on the door if I lock myself out, plus resale later on down the road.
 






I don't know about the keypad working. I'd go to some shops & ask. The factory setup is an alram not just keyless entry. It doesn't have all the stuff a real alarm has though. I'm sure you can test it out & lock yourself in, arm the system, after 1 minute open your door, or pop the hood. The alarm should go off. You could add a shock sensor to the factory alarm also. Just buy a shock sensor & find the wire under the dash that goes to the hood pin switch & wire the sensor to that, 1 wire for power & 1 for ground. Set the sensitivity & that's that.
For alarms, almost everythig is made by DEI now days. All I've had are Vipers, & they have worked good for me.
 






i went with the hornet alarm over viper....its a bit cheaper and has more/better features as well...hell the guy that sells the alrams sold me the cheaper/better one.....
think the model # was 564t or something like that...and yes i can still use my door keys to get in if i needed to......has a ton of features..remote start,inside temp,alarm(to wake you up i guess),tells you what the zone was that was violated...alerts you if your alarm is goin goff etc.....
 






By the way......

.....The whole deal with the key thing, I'm not sure if they even made the keys like that for the Explorer in '97. I know they did for the Expedition. If regular Wal-mart style copies work, then you probably don't have that setup. One way to tell, take the ORIGIONAL key, the one with the black plastic. Look at the top, above where you would attach a key ring, toward on side. You might be able to see a little "door" as they are called. If this door is there, then there is a computer chip inside. If not, then any key will work.

P.S. DON"T TAKE THE DOOR OFF!!!!!!!!! Found that out the hard way on my dad's expedition. Took the chip out and tried to start the car. Alarm went off. Couldn't turn alarm off. Long story short, drove fifteen miles down interstate with alarm blaring to nearest dealership.
 






FHBasketball-
Ya, I know about the little chip on older models. Although, newer models have a chip that you can't see, but the key is slightly larger too. Since regular Wal-Mart keys work, I have always assumed it didn't have the ignition disable despite the fact that most of what I read says that the model with power everything and a 5.0 does have that. Ohh well, no worries.

I'll make a trip to a couple of car audio/alarm shops today to see what there is to see.
 












I think a Lojack system would be worth more than the X is worth, haha.

After looking around, it seems like all the system's that were being sold were Viper systems. After talking with the install tech's at a couple of places, they seemed to indicate that since the X has its own remote keyless entry system, they basically just tap into the solenoids and what not for their system. What that means is that I COULD use my stock Keyless Entry, but that it would have no effect on the alarm system, or I can use the alarm system's keyless entry to get in as well which would disable the alarm at the same time.

I'm not totally done searching, but I will tell you guys if I find anything else out.
 






What's wrong with a new remote? DEI is the best company, they own Clifford, Hornet, Viper, Python, and more. Many of the Clifford/Viper/Python systems are just rebadged systems with different colored remotes.
 












hey, dunno if this fits in this post but i didnt want to start a whole new thread. when you use an aftermarket system like yall are talking about will the keypad on the door still work? if not is there a way to wire it so that it will?
 






I think it'll still work, but you won't be able to disable the alarm, so using it would be fairly pointless.
 






Well, after doing all my searching I'm planning on going with the AL-100C unit from Crutchfield.

My main reason for doing this is that I want something that easily integrates, and I don't see a reason to pay an extra $100 and spend more time installing it because I have to hack my car to shreds. They AL-100C will plug directly into my current alarm/keyless entry setup with the use of a wiring harnes (only minor cutting in is necessary). In addition, it will properly interact with the door locks and all current sensors in the X. The only things the X doesn't really have that I really wanted was a bump sensor (IE: someone touches the car and the alarm goes off) and an ignition kill. This unit will allow me to do both of these while maintaining the factory alarm and keyless entry. Basically, it detects when I lock and unlock the doors from my keyless entry and uses that to arm and disarm the system.

Easy, functional and not too much $$.

As for the door panel, they are correct, with most alarms they will still work, but have no effect on the alarm, so they are useless. With this setup, I'm not 100% sure. I don't know exactly how the system locks and unlocks the doors. if it sends the same disarm signal as the keyfobs do (which it should) then unlocking from the keypad on the door with this unit should also disarm the alarm, but I won't know until I get it.
 






huskyfan23 said:
I think it'll still work, but you won't be able to disable the alarm, so using it would be fairly pointless.

so true.... now if you locked the keys in the car then it wouldnt.

if you lock the doors from the inside of the truck with the lock or unlock button it will arm the factory alarm, in which case it will go off if you unlock the car with the aftermarket alarm and open the door.

and this is the only time my factory alarm has ever worked.
 






i see...so like when i go biking and leave my keys in the car it will be good for that but the aftermarket alarm will be going off. so i can get in but then have to disarm the system with my bleep bleep on the keys?
 






uuuh, aftermarket alarm will only go off if you armed it when you exited the car, so youd have to throw the keys in the car after arming it before it fully arms
 






ah im retarded...
 






Actually, the description for that alarm said that it can also be used in passive mode and will arm when it senses the door triggers, etc are all closed... so perhaps it WILL arm itself and you will have to override it once you get in the vehicle...
 



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That is correct, it does have a passive mode that will arm the alarm after a certain period of time after all the doors have been locked and closed. It does this because if you try to start the car, the alarm will not sound. Not sure if the alarm immediately sounds as soon as you try to open the door until you start the car, or what, but I don't have any plans myself to use that feature.
 






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