Low-Speed Shudder: Rear Diff Issue?

[asoltys]

I had this in my 2004. It was the clutch packs. The easy fix I'd going to the synthetic fluid upping to 75/155. Youmay need to replace the packs if this doesn't take care of it.

 

[Extremistno9]

I have been getting some quotes for getting the fluid changed since I was trying to save myself some time. Seems Ford wants $200 and a local ma/pa shop wants $175. I know the fluid is fairly expensive, I think it will top out around $50 or so, but is the additional $125 wioth it for the "pros" to do it. The small shop mentioned they would flush it with brake fluid first to clean it out then fill it. I imagine that flushing it with brake fluid is something that I do not want to get into in my garage.

Also, The ma/pa shop mentioned that it may take a few tires and I have seen you guys mention that too. There is no way I want to pay $175 to find out 6 months later, I have to pay it again for the same damn thing.

Bottom line, For those that have done it, is it simple enough to do? I consider myself fairly handy and have tackled moderate car repairs. I do not have the 1/2" or 3/4" drive either (but getting a 3/4" with a 1/2" reducer I hear is the way to go) so I will need to get some tools, hand pump and fluid.

Thanks in advance, need to get this thing taken care of before a long trip! :exp:

 

[whitestang04gt]

Have you checked you wheel hub bearings, mine did similiar, turned out to just be wheel bearings

 

[Extremistno9]

I have not checked the wheel bearing hubs but I will add that to the list of things to do. I bought all the supplies to do the job and will do the diff oil change within the next week or so and see how it feels (keeping in mind I may need to do it twice) Anyways, off to drink some beer!

 

[Extremistno9]

Just finished the job about an hour ago. After test driving the Exp, the rear diff seems to be better and the loud whining has been reduced dramatically. Wish I would have done this sooner. Used Mobile-1 75w-140 synthetic gear oil ($19/qrt) and a friction modifier called Trans-X Posi-Trac Limited Slip Gear Oil Additive($6/7oz) (all 7oz as recommended by the bottle) from advanced autoparts.

Word of advise for anyone doing this fluid change, use a hand pump for the fluid rather than a syphon (not sure if this has been mentioned before). The syphon added probally an hour to hour and half more time that it should have taken sinced to moved so slow. I ended up making a pump out of the syphon.

 

[jakedrew]

glad you got it fixed.

keep us updated.


i will keep in mind the hand pump deal.

so you just remove the plug, then just pump out the fluid.

only thing i did down there was replace that sensor on top of the rear end as my ABS light was on.
there is a magnet on there, did you clean yours ?

 

[Extremistno9]

I removed the top plug first (clean off magnet), as someone previous mentioned (if you cant get the top one out then there is no reason to proceed with the change). Have some type of oil catch for removing the top plug since fluid will come out. Once the top plug is removed, remove the bottom plug. Let the fluid drain into a pan. Replace the bottom plug (clean off the plug). I put some teflon tape on each plug to ensure no leaks. I put in the friction modifier first, then I pumped the mobil1 fluid into the diff through the top opening. Once the fluid starting spilling out of the top plug hole, I put the top plug back in. Job done.

After I drove it for a while, I removed the top plug to check the level. Once I removed it, fluid starting spilling out slowly, so I quickly put the top plug back in (knowing my level was good).

I know these instructions have been mentioned before but this was how I did it and I added some helpful hints that should make it cleaner (by the end, I had oil all over my hands and a good amount on the garage floor). I would recommend using a large srynge and suck the fluid out of the oil container and into the diff or use a hand pump.

 

[jakedrew]

thanks for the tips.

 

[sfbayjay]

Hope this fluid change works wonders for you guys.

I changed my rear diff fluid to Mobil1 Synthetic 75/140 and added Ford's OEM XL-3 friction modifier and it didn't make any difference.

I still have the "shudder" and I actually think that changing the fluid made the infamous rear end "whine" much more noticeable.

Maybe it's the Mobil1 fluid???

Trying not to think about how much the rear end repair is going to cost me since i don't have an extended warranty...

 

[Limited02]

+1 on the pump. I tried using a 12" hose attached to the bottle and squeezed. Work the first time but not the second time I used 85W-140 with a full bottle of friction modifier(I think I put 2 tube of modifier in) and my shuddering went away.

But now, I have noticed when crusing at slow speeds, when I barley apply the gas there is a nice whine Let off the gas and it goes away, then reapply the gas and WHINE! So many problems, so little money

 

[coled43]

sfbayjay,
Assumming you took your trip, so you must have a few thousand miles on that fluid. I think your main problem is the clutches. The gears may whine, but they will probably be OK. Why not try some Royal Purple or something other than M1?
Also, I was thinking about what another poster mentioned about the shop saying they would flush it with brake fluid. Cleaning the clutches would make sense (not sure if that would be the best way). Just new fluid would clean it out some anyway.

 

[nippaero]

Has anyone replaced the clutch packs on their own? How big of a deal is it. It seems like a common problem so I am suprised someone hasn't done a write up about it with pictures yet.

It looks like they estimate the job at ~4.6 hours with test driving included. Could be an easy weekend job.

Has anyone priced out the parts below?

3L1Z-4947-AB (for 9.75) RR Axle Clutch
3L1Z-4947-BC (for 8.8) RR Axle Clutch
XY-75W140-QL Rear Axle Lubricant
XL-3 Friction Modifier Additive
W710084-S439 Nut (Wheel End)
2L1Z-4B422-CA Circlips (for 9.75²)
1L2Z-4B422-BA Circlips (for 8.8²)

 

[EHunt]

Same SHUDDER in 1996 Sport

Hey All,

I've got the same problem. Low speed turn causes hard shudder in steering wheel/vehicle.

Well, it all sounds the same except for a few details.

I did not have the problem until I did a break job on the front brakes.
I've done the brakes before with no problem.
This time (I did not do this before) I did spin the front passenger side hub a few times while inspecting the rotor. I did not do this to the other side. I also turned the steering wheel several times when the vehicle was NOT running.
The shudder occurs even if I am sitting still and turn the steering wheel left or right at a fast speed.
The Explorer is 4x4 but I have it in 2 wheel drive all the time and it does it even if I am not moving, so I do not think it is the 4WD or the rear end.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Limited02]

EHunt- Could it possibly be that when turning the steering wheel quickly while not moving, the tires may be trying to grip? It wouldn't hurt to spin the drivers side and check for any problems.

Also, do you have any newfound vibration while driving straight than you did before you changed the brakes(highway speed)? Maybe check to make sure the lugnuts are tight.

 

[sfbayjay]

EHunt,

You may have a different problem. When researching my "shudder" issue, I stumbled on this thread. Look at post number 3.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209369&highlight=power+steering+shudder

This didn't turn out to be my issue (I had my rear diff clutch packs replaced and shudder disappeared), but when you said something about turning the wheels w/o the engine running it tripped my memory.

Hope this is as simple for you!

 

[EHunt]

Great Members

THanks SFBayJay,

That fixed it. It was the power steering pump. I followed their advice and the shudder went away! Whew!

Hey limited02, thanks for the ideas.

 

[EHunt]

Greetings All,

I checked a couple of different sites I like for repair info, for the problem you guys are having. One idea, that I have not seen here, is that if you have slightly different sized tires, the Explorer will try to engage the 4x4, but only when accelerating, and kick back out after your momentum levels off.

The post suggested that even a difference in size caused by one set of tires being worn and one set being new could cause the problem. Although thats a stretch for me.

There were other ideas to. The link below takes you to that post.

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t595661-1999_explorer_xlt_problem

If I come across anything that sounds like it might help, I'll be sure to post it.

 

[Limited02]

Glad to hear that you fixed your problem!!!

The different size tires have been mentioned a few times in reagards to the auto 4x4's. Heck, anything 4x4 should have matching tires unless it's geared to accept the difference. If anyone has some problems we can't address, then checking that site out isn't a bad idea

 

[Extremistno9]

I know this is an older post but I now have a different 02 EXP from the one I previously worked on earlier in this post. I have the same diff issue with whining and shuttering. I change the fluid with mobil 1 and added the pos-x additive as I did before. No success. I changed the fluid again with Royal Purple and it is still shuttering. I did not add the additive since RP has it already mixed in.

Others mentioned to give it some time to really work it's way into all of the parts. How long have people had to wait (time and/or miles) for everything to work out? On my previous '02 EXP, there was no waiting period, it just worked. I am tying to determine how much time/miles to give it before taking it in to have the rear diff evaluate for something more serious. Or, should I still pour in some additive?

Thanks!

 

[Limited02]

I know this is an older post but I now have a different 02 EXP from the one I previously worked on earlier in this post. I have the same diff issue with whining and shuttering. I change the fluid with mobil 1 and added the pos-x additive as I did before. No success. I changed the fluid again with Royal Purple and it is still shuttering. I did not add the additive since RP has it already mixed in.

Others mentioned to give it some time to really work it's way into all of the parts. How long have people had to wait (time and/or miles) for everything to work out? On my previous '02 EXP, there was no waiting period, it just worked. I am tying to determine how much time/miles to give it before taking it in to have the rear diff evaluate for something more serious. Or, should I still pour in some additive?

Thanks!

Friction modified is only needed if you have the tow package (3.73 and limited slip). Otherwise, you may have a different issue that we'll have to pinpoint.