Messy leak help ID? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Messy leak help ID?

Brem95

Elite Explorer
Joined
September 7, 2019
Messages
176
Reaction score
37
Location
Canada
City, State
Alberta
Year, Model & Trim Level
97' Explorer Sport OHV
Hey guys I’m assuming this is gear oil but unsure of exactly what I should be looking at or replacing. I’m learning as I go when it comes to home garage mechanics.

it’s by Muffler on passenger side/middle of vehicle, don’t know the actual name of the part since I’m use to working on my pickup.

Looks like it’s been thrown around everywhere, maybe looks worse because I washed the undercarriage of the vehicle today. Don’t want to be driving it much with this bad looking leak.

I may sound dumb but I really need to get this figured out and I appreciate the help.

thanks

EDIT: rear dif pinion seal?

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DC365896-89E2-4C55-8791-24C38707124E.jpeg


CBAFB283-B8D4-4F1B-9BE8-94AB65BE1B9E.jpeg


9A73F723-A64F-4884-A9FC-373890757FC2.jpeg
 



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Judging from the photos, it looks like your leak is the rear driveshaft flange seal in the transfer case. The spinning driveshaft is flinging the fluid, or (MERCON/DEXIII) equivalent t-case fluid, the owners manual says use "MERCON" in the t case . Wash all the fresh fluid off, go for short drive, then look for wetness just to be sure.
 






Thanks, is this something I can likely drive for as long a I check level and add as needed? Do you know much about that specific repair job and if it’s very intensive?

appreciate the help!
 






There is a how to rebuild that 4405 case thread in our transmission forum. If you have the mechanical know how, and the tools, it won't be costly to repair.

If you have to pay a shop to do the work, the cost would be as much or more, than buying a replacement case at a salvage yard.

They are relatively easy to replace if you can turn a wrench. 1 hour job.
 






There is a how to rebuild that 4405 case thread in our transmission forum. If you have the mechanical know how, and the tools, it won't be costly to repair.

If you have to pay a shop to do the work, the cost would be as much or more, than buying a replacement case at a salvage yard.

They are relatively easy to replace if you can turn a wrench. 1 hour job.
Thank you very much. Im wondering if I can just buy a new seal and drop the rear driveshaft drain the case and replace. Need to clean up the area and then see if I can confirm leak location and then see what parts to order. I have very little experience working on my new to me explorer but so far it’s been a very good learning tool.
 






Thank you very much. Im wondering if I can just buy a new seal and drop the rear driveshaft drain the case and replace.

@Brem95

Welcome to the forum - always nice to see another SPORT owner :chug:

To answer your question that I've quoted ABOVE; Yes :thumbsup:

In April 2018 @ 203,300 Miles I had to replace my Sport's Borg Warner 4405 Transfer Case Rear Output Shaft Seal. I'm frequently under my Ex, either changing oil, or greasing the Ft. Suspension.

I noticed my leak just started, and it was clear from the pattern of fluid being thrown that it was the Transfer Case rear output seal. The Genuine OEM Ford Part # F3TZ-7B215-A is between $10 to $12 on Ebay. I got mine from FordPartWarehouse on Ebay for $11.25 Shipped/No Tax. Link: F3TZ-7B215-A | eBay

When removing the "yoke" - be aware that under the nut that holds down the Yoke you'll find a small rubber "washer seal". Don't lose it, you'll need it for re-assembly. I cleaned mine up with parts cleaner, and coated both sides with Permatex Ultra Copper just for good measure. I've had no leaks from either the Seal or the Washer, BUT sourced/purchased some new washers just in case I ever have to go back in there. Let me know if you want the part number and I'll grab 'em out of my parts box.

BTW - You're looking at leaking ATF (not Gear Oil).

PS -Help us help you.

ASAP: List your V-6 engine type (OHV or SOHC) and Transmission (Auto or Standard) in you signature. Check my Avatar for example.
 






That's a pretty bad leak. If you don't get it repaired and run the t-case out of oil you'll ruin it.

You can replace the seal(s) on the transfer case fairly easily and inexpensively if it's just a leaking seal. You would need to remove the driveshaft associated with the leak(s), remove a large nut that holds the yoke on the t-case's output shaft, remove the old seal and replace it with a new one, then I'd drain the t-case and refill it with fresh Dex/Merc ATF. I've replaced the rear seal on a Explorer t-case, it was not very difficult, I'd rate it a 1-2 on a scale of 1-10 (10 being the most difficult).

Note: While the seal is out, if you find that the t-case output shaft can be wiggled around then replacing the seal will not stop the leaking because you have a worn bearing or bushing inside the t-case. Then you're looking at rebuilding or replacing the t-case.
 






@Brem95

Welcome to the forum - always nice to see another SPORT owner :chug:

To answer your question that I've quoted ABOVE; Yes :thumbsup:

In April 2018 @ 203,300 Miles I had to replace my Sport's Borg Warner 4405 Transfer Case Rear Output Shaft Seal. I'm frequently under my Ex, either changing oil, or greasing the Ft. Suspension.

I noticed my leak just started, and it was clear from the pattern of fluid being thrown that it was the Transfer Case rear output seal. The Genuine OEM Ford Part # F3TZ-7B215-A is between $10 to $12 on Ebay. I got mine from FordPartWarehouse on Ebay for $11.25 Shipped/No Tax. Link: F3TZ-7B215-A | eBay

When removing the "yoke" - be aware that under the nut that holds down the Yoke you'll find a small rubber "washer seal". Don't lose it, you'll need it for re-assembly. I cleaned mine up with parts cleaner, and coated both sides with Permatex Ultra Copper just for good measure. I've had no leaks from either the Seal or the Washer, BUT sourced/purchased some new washers just in case I ever have to go back in there. Let me know if you want the part number and I'll grab 'em out of my parts box.

BTW - You're looking at leaking ATF (not Gear Oil).

PS -Help us help you.

ASAP: List your V-6 engine type (OHV or SOHC) and Transmission (Auto or Standard) in you signature. Check my Avatar for example.


Thanks for the awesome info! I'm learning as I go and I have all the tools I need so a full rebuild for the t case will be coming up in the spring. For now I cleaned the entire t case and surrounding area, drained about 1.8 quarts and then filled it back up with some atf and some at-205 re-seal. I know it's not a great solution but im hoping it gets me through the upcoming winter. I will add all my info in my signature.

I was on the ground in the dark while looking at the leak and for some reason my brain was blank, didn't exactly know what I was looking at even though I just changed rear, front and t case on my f-150 so I should have known better haha.

This vehicle will be a great project and learning tool at only 90,000 miles.
 






That's a pretty bad leak. If you don't get it repaired and run the t-case out of oil you'll ruin it.

You can replace the seal(s) on the transfer case fairly easily and inexpensively if it's just a leaking seal. You would need to remove the driveshaft associated with the leak(s), remove a large nut that holds the yoke on the t-case's output shaft, remove the old seal and replace it with a new one, then I'd drain the t-case and refill it with fresh Dex/Merc ATF. I've replaced the rear seal on a Explorer t-case, it was not very difficult, I'd rate it a 1-2 on a scale of 1-10 (10 being the most difficult).

Note: While the seal is out, if you find that the t-case output shaft can be wiggled around then replacing the seal will not stop the leaking because you have a worn bearing or bushing inside the t-case. Then you're looking at rebuilding or replacing the t-case.


Thanks, it's bad for sure, I've been under it a bunch since I purchased it a month or so ago and never saw that much leakage. I drained the fluid and measured about 1.8 quarts so luckily it didn't lose that much. I have re filled, and added in at-205 sealant to swell the seals and see if that fixes the issue so I will then know if I need a rebuild or a seal. Hoping this will get me through the winter.

Cheers
 






Also another question - Should I be able to wigging the drive shaft by hand a slight amount?
 






Also another question - Should I be able to wigging the drive shaft by hand a slight amount?

Wiggle or turn slightly? Define "wiggle". All driveshafts have a little play in them.
 






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