More REAR brakes vs Front breaks???

[Fbird]

06 Limited new to me. Just did front/rear rotors,pads, hoses and new MC and yet while the pedal is firm, solid, it still does NOT SEEM RIGHT> Feels as though the rear brakes are doing MORE work than the front. Their temperature shows this to be true also. Am I missing something here?
I will try to gravity bleed the fronts today as I have TIME TO WASTE but I really do not expect any difference.

 

[Bazz270]

Are the brake calipers guide pins serviced and cleaned?

They should move easily inside caliper bracket guide holes.

Is it any free radial play on em?

 

[Mbrooks420]

What’s the temp difference between them? You’ve probably got a bunk master cylinder. What brand is it?

Also, your thread title isn’t really great as to what your actual issue is.

 

[94Eddie]

Have you bled the ABS block? It requires a special procedure.

 

[Fbird]

pins and all hardware serviced,cleaned,greased with new pad install.
TEMP difference is "noticeable". I do not have a temp gun to note ##'s but the end of my finger says "warm" vs DAMN HOT. I have never had a vehicle where the REAR run hotter than the front (even if they are NOT vented rears)

No I have NOT touched the ABS block yet but with MAX BRAKING applied all 4 will and do skip/roll as the abs applies.

 

[94Eddie]

You might want to do a software bleed of the ABS block. You might have some air in the lines controlling the front wheels.

 

[Fbird]

Dealer scan tool required?....a bit outside my Actron or sct...tools probably

 

[94Eddie]

Dealer scan tool required?....a bit outside my Actron or sct...tools probably

I believe you can do it with FORSCAN and a laptop. Someone will probably chime in and give you better info on the procedure to do this than I can.

 

[Gary Crist]

I've seen that on replacement M/Cs. The pin that actuates the master can be too long.(wrong master cylinder)
When it is too long the rears are actuated 1st or always applied. To prevent this head ache,
I always stick a Phillips screwdriver into the hole of the master and compare it to the old one.
I have been bit by that mess-up more than once. It arises from the wrong piston in the master.

 

[Bazz270]

I dont think that other car MC could fit Gen4 brake booster studs pattern

 

[Bazz270]

I believe you can do it with FORSCAN and a laptop. Someone will probably chime in and give you better info on the procedure to do this than I can.

Sure,Abs bleed operation could be performed with Forscan.no need for IDS tool.

But usually brake effort problem ended with bent brake tubes,stuck brake cylinders,caliper guide pins service or a replace.

 

[94Eddie]

Sure,Abs bleed operation could be performed with Forscan.no need for IDS tool.

But usually brake effort problem ended with bent brake tubes,stuck brake cylinders,caliper guide pins service or a replace.

It also could be old rubber hoses that attach to the caliper expanding under pressure.

 

[Richard09A]

06 Limited new to me. Just did front/rear rotors,pads, hoses and new MC and yet while the pedal is firm, solid, it still does NOT SEEM RIGHT> Feels as though the rear brakes are doing MORE work than the front. Their temperature shows this to be true also. Am I missing something here?
I will try to gravity bleed the fronts today as I have TIME TO WASTE but I really do not expect any difference.

How are the emergency brakes looking? Sometimes that hardware gets screwed up and that would cause lots of friction. Other than that- just make sure you’re bleeding from rear right, rear left, front right, front left.

 

[trebrewer]

06 Limited new to me. Just did front/rear rotors,pads, hoses and new MC and yet while the pedal is firm, solid, it still does NOT SEEM RIGHT> Feels as though the rear brakes are doing MORE work than the front. Their temperature shows this to be true also. Am I missing something here?
I will try to gravity bleed the fronts today as I have TIME TO WASTE but I really do not expect any difference.

Hey there,

Merry Christmas! It sounds like the brake hose to one of the calipers is twisted and not resting freely. I would start there.

Keep me posted.

 

[JackDH]

My 2004 MBX 70k had LR fail & replaced. Months later RR failed both creped in wouldn't back off. After the fix I completely hydraulically bleed the system furthest first. Fluid is fairly cheap & used 3-4 syn. & plenty of it. Did not do the ABS block. Everything seems fine. Thanks for the heads up.......

 

[Fbird]

replaced all hoses already when I thought the rear were dragging. They were NOT dragging they were THE ONLY THING WORKING. That lead to the MC swap.
Now the front works...just late to the game meaning you must be on the pedal pretty good BEFORE the front starts doing anything...kinda weird. I just gravity bleed the fronts. FYI 1 hr drip = about 1/2 of the reservoir.
Must replace new rear axle seal before driving again...argh

 

[Bazz270]

Since there is no way for me to find any kind of 80mm DIA socket or pipe,Ive purchased recently ford rear axle tool for doing that axle seal repair too.50bucks on ebay

Genuine CV joint boots,clamps,grease,bearing and the seal purchased too:

 

[JackDH]

photo shows several tubes of grease.....I believe mine called for NGLI 2 that I got at W mart for few bucks in grease gun cartridges & repacked all 8 boots with 2 cartridges using a grease gun needle inserted at furthest point from CV joint near band.......motion will draw the grease to joint

 

[Bazz270]

Thats the OEM one.

 

[Fbird]

YAY success!!! so replace teh jacked up seal... ( I have many pieces of "beat on blocks/tubes") I gravity bleed the fronts and wow what a difference. ALL 4 brakes seem to be working properly as the FRONT wheels show a little more heat than the rear brakes. They feel a lot better and truck is NOW performing as it should!
Thankyou for the replies!
1 more NON issue.