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Need a quick answer on radius arm bushing repair.

Carguy3J

Explorer Addict
Joined
June 21, 2008
Messages
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City, State
North East New Jersey
Year, Model & Trim Level
'99 4dr. XLT SOHC A4WD
Ok guys, I'm doing a passenger side radius arm bushing on a '93 ranger. I have it up on 4 ramps. The nut is off the r/a. My plan is to now remove the bracket, with the weight still on the suspension, and everything else bolted up. Does anybody see a problem with this? The only possible movement I can see is the radius arm MAYBE trying to rotate up a little towards the frame. I'm thinking I can prevent this from happening by wedging some 2x4's or whatever between the r/a and the frame, pull the bracket right off the back of the arm, put new bushings in, and bolt the bracket back up.

I'm running out for parts now. If I don't hear any major objections, when I get back, I'm going to go ahead with this. So.... speak up now, if you think I'm about to kill myself here.......
 






I did the bushings on the ground with two jack stands holding the truck up up by the front frame horns. i used the jacks to position and hold up the rad/ arm. with the weight on it, it will be a task.

step 1.) Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end.
step 2.) Extend jack stand as far up as needed. (forward of front axle)
step 3.) Remove tire from side being workd on. ( put jack under the rad/ arm to remove tire because suspension should be a full drop on jack stands)
step 4.) use a floor jack to release any tension or weight from the arm
step 5.) go to town fixin her up.

Hope this helps a lil bit and with no disrespect but your idea kinda sounded sketchy.
good luck and hope all goes well.
took me about 4 hrs to remove old brackets ( factory rivets) install new bushing and brackets both sides.
 












Just an update:

I did the repair as planned/outlined above. Nothing came crashing down or slammed/smashed me. In fact it was all rather uneventful. I didn't have to remove the shock, tie rod, spring, or even the tire:

1.) I drove the truck up onto four (4) car ramps, to raise it up, and keep it all level

2.) I unbolted/removed the mudflap, and removed the lower most "christmas tree" clip holding the inner fender liner. I then drilled a small hole in the plastic liner, just big enough for the hook of a bungie cord. I then used the bungie cord to pull/hold the bottom of the fender liner forward and out of the way.

3.)Next, I used a grinder to shorten the body mount bolt an inch or so. I did this so the body of my angle grinder would not rub on the bolt when grinding the rear rivet for radius arm bracket.

4.) I removed the nut on the back of the radius arm (holding the bushings,etc..) (1-1/4" wrench)

5.) I ground off/punched out both rivets.

6.) I removed the 4 bolts holding the 2 radius arm brackets together, in the center of the truck. I then removed the remaining 2 bolts.

7.) At this point the radius arm is "free". No disaster occurred. Since I was only doing the passenger side, and the passenger side sits on top of the drivers side bracket (n the middle), some prying and wiggling were needed. Also, the cat does get in the way. Unbolting prior to beginning would make things simpler, but I didn't want to bother. I also didn't want to risk opening a can of worms, by disturbing more stuff. With some strategic prying, pushing, and pulling, you can "sneak" the bushings, and then the bracket, off the back of the radius arm, and around the cat. It may be helpful to wedge a block of wood or something between the RA and the frame, as it will tend to rotate up towards the frame, when disconnected. Also, to make it easier to reinstall the new parts, I put a floor jack under the driver side axle beam, and jacked it up just enough to put weight on the jack (really just barely). I then used a small ratchet strap, with one end around the cross bar of the jacket (for the "axle"), and the other wrapped around the RA. I used this to pull the end of the RA down and "in" (towards the center of the truck). Not a lot..., but just enough to make it easier to get everything around the cat.

8.) Get everything in place, and reinstall all your bolts,etc.. I used a new radius arm bracket, which came with all new hardware. Also, after placing all the bolts in there holes, I tightened the center bolts first, then the bracket-to-frame bolts, and finally the RA end nut.

Of course, if you're doing the driver's side, you'll have to deal with fuel filter as well.
 






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