Need Advice... best approach to replace fuel line pipe along engine

[3xowner]

so i damaged my fuel line pipe on my 2000 4.0 SOHC while doing the upper left timing chain tensioner.

the line, pipe, runs from the left side bank where it connects back to the run from filter to near the exhaust manifold, has a bracket which bolts to the left side block, and then runs up behind the t-stat housing. it connects to both injector rails.

This part / configuration is only on the 2000-2001 4.0 SOHCs.

So the issue in replacing this is accessing the 8mm bolt head for the assembly's bracket, which is bolted to the block, there is like no room to properly access it. It is tucked behind the power steering reservoir, power steering pump, and A/C Compressor. those all are secured to a bracket.

with all this stuff as well as the EGR valve / pipe in the way.... what is the best approach to loosen the fuel pipe brackets bolt? and replace that line? is there a good procedure from Ford?

I believe that I can get into disassembly of things in order to get to both rails and get all four 7mm bolts out along both injector rails. Its just that lower bracket bolt that's the issue.

as this fuel line pipe part is discontinued and I had to pull it from a junk yard. I tore into the harvest in not a proper, professional way. so I surely havent developed the right approach for my running SUV. I quickly tested it to make sure it holds pressure.

I would like to replace the orings with exact parts... if anyone knows this too, it would be helpful.

I will be adding pictures soon from my pc as well as my phone, so give me a few minutes / hour to get proper pics up to help show all of this.

 

[Rick]

The factory doesn't make things easy for technicians that's for sure. Hate to say it, but unless someone else has a better answer it sounds like you will have to start removing everything you said is in the way of you getting to the bolt.

 

[donalds]

You can get it through the fender well quite easily with an Extension
I have been there a couple of times
Felpro Makes the best O. rings For your injectors ////The blue ones///
Be careful with the fuel rails they are made of glass
the plastic wood screws that are used on the fuel rail plastic don't need to be tight as soon as the screw stops you're good
Let the o ring do the work you will strip the plastic/glass rail

 

[XLTrunner]

I removed a couple of them on '98's and had to access it thru the fender well, also. However, they were anything but easy to get to. Had to use a wrench and could only get about an 1/8 of a turn at a time.

 

[3xowner]

You can get it through the fender well quite easily with an Extension
I have been there a couple of times

if coming in from the wheel wheel, did you have to loosen up the bracket for the PS pump and ac compressor?

without that stuff being pulled away from the engine, i had faced an unwinnable battle trying to get a socket on it from the wheel well. and trying to get a wrench on, geez... my 3-4 inch 8 mm wrench, just not enough room nor torque it seemed.

I really dont want to say have to do AC work like a vacuum and refill.

Heck if running into too much on replacing it, I am thinking perhaps to cut out the original on either side of the bracket and zip tie it to the old bracket for support... now of course i really dont want to do that but the vehicle is down at the moment and its been 2-3 weeks already.

i am not working on the injectors nor injector rails.

 

[donalds]

So loosen up the AC compressor set it aside
Not to bad

How does your line connect to the rails

 

[3xowner]

So loosen up the AC compressor set it aside
Not to bad

How does your line connect to the rails

As in the part picture/ diagram the line/pipe has flanges that double bolt into the rails. I am not certain how how years run the fuel line to rails but for 2000 and 2001 this is how it is on the 4.0 sohc

 

[3xowner]

So loosen up the AC compressor set it aside
Not to bad

How does your line connect to the rails

in the diagram you can see two flanges for both rails, each has two 7mm bolts.
I am not sure how say how the 98-99 4.0 SOHCs are, but this is how 2000-01 4.0 SOHCs are.

I do not believe it is feasible to move or loosen the AC compressor per se by itself based on how the top bolts / nuts are for it.
It seems more so to approach making room by trying to get PS and AC bracket free and pull forward.

But I will investigate trying to go thru the wheel well as someone has mentioned first.
Pain right now is that I do not have a garage nor driveway... doing it on the street.