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Need an honest answer regarding lower ball joints

ws65

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City, State
San Diego, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'00 XLT
First off, thanks Gavin for your insight on my previous question (I've decided to go with the mevotech uppers) this is kind of a continuation of that thread.

I've seen some of you say that sometimes the aftermarket lbj's don't fit into the stock arm. I'm concerned about this. I would much prefer to buy just the ball joints and not the whole lca due my lack of funds, but if they don't fit I'd be screwed because I wouldn't want to put the damaged lbj back in.

So, I would like your feedback if I should buy just the ball joints and go for it (and save a grip of money) or buy the whole control arm assemblies.

Also, if I just get the ball joints, which should I get?

If I have to buy the whole assembly, I saw at RockAuto that there are Dorman's and Raybestos/Spicer rasonably priced (the Raybestos/Spicer professional grade are a little bit cheaper than the Dorman regular grade)...which of these would be good?
 



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If the lower ball joint doesn't fit (not sure where you read about that) then they sold you the wrong joints, plain and simple.

Personally, I prefer Moog or TRW to either Dorman or Raybestos.... but that's just my personal preference. Whatever you get, make sure they come with grease fittings, and lube them regularly.
 












Rock auto actually show 2 different sizes of lower ball joint, I'm not to sure why though.

I'm not seeing two different sizes for the lower... I see a Raybestos/Spicer 5051221B service grade unit and a 5051221 professional grade unit, two Mevotech part numbers, two Moog part numbers (one of which is going to fit the stock control arm, one will fit the Moog Problem Solver control arm), one AC Delco part, and one Motorcraft part. Where's the confusion?

Seems like a quick call to someone with a Moog catalog should resolve the question pretty quick.
 












I am finding local autoparts stores selling i.e. MOOG or NAPA, etc sell the upper ball joint with the control arm only. If they offer a ball joint it fits only their specific control arm. Why is it necessary to change out the control arm in order to change the ball joint? Upper ball joint approx $44 upper ball joint arm with control arm approx $150. This is reason enough I guess if you are the mfg of after market. I am mostly concerned if there is a problematic need to change out the control arm?

The after market lower ball joints apparently are designed to fit the OEM hole.
 






On the lowers, I wouldn't worry. I've only ever seen one size for them. On the upper, the OEM arms must be replaced (and it's a pain in the arse thanks to the brake & fuel lines on the driver's side). Once you install the Moog Problem Solver upper control arms (like I did the last time) there's no need to replace the arm. You can just replace the joint at a fraction of the cost (and a whole lot less work I suspect).

-Joe
 












I THINK Moog carries a lifetime warranty on their BJs, too.
 






To avoid the event of buying the wrong size, check the return policy. If they allow returns, then just buy all the ones that will fit, I'm sure one of the two will...
 






1. Ok, so it seems the consensus is to just replace the lbj's into the stock arm, yes?
2. If so, I assume I should go with the Moog p/n K8695T?
3. Now, I haven't really had a chance to take a look, but on the lca's where the two bushings are (where the lca attaches and pivots), can those bushings be changed for the stock arm? (it would save the money of replacing the whole arm) and would it be the Moog p/n K8705?
4. I'm not sure if I can afford the Moog's for the uppers, but it seems everything else at RockAuto is a one piece for the RH upper (whcih isn't good for alignments I assume), except for the Mevotech which has a piece design for both right and left?! The Mevotech's are $30 less each than the Moog's, but I'm confused about the 2 piece design for the left side which everyone else has as a one piece....I'm soooo confused!
 






I had to weld my lowers in, the cheap china made replacements that I had failed after 9 months when I replaced them nothing would fit there was always slop. so I bought the lifetime replacements from napa and tacked them in.
 






Ok, so it seems the consensus is to just replace the lbj's into the stock arm, yes?
If so, I assume I should go with the Moog p/n K8695T?
Now, I haven't really had a chance to take a look, but on the lca's where the two bushings are (where the lca attaches and pivots), can those bushings be changed for the stock arm? (it would save the money of replacing the whole arm)
I'm not sure if I can afford the Moog's for the uppers, but it seems everything else at RockAuto is a one piece for the RH upper, except for the Mevotech which has a piece design for both right and left?! The Mevotech's are $30 less each than the Moog's, but I'm confused about the 2 piece design for the left side which everyone else has as a one piece....I'm soooo confused!

the 2 piece design was how it came from the factory. So a lot of people like to keep that setup since it gives you a little more room to play with the alignment. But the 1 piece design seems to work fine for most people. So keep the 2 piece if you can afford it, but if not the one piece will work fine.
 






the 2 piece design was how it came from the factory. So a lot of people like to keep that setup since it gives you a little more room to play with the alignment. But the 1 piece design seems to work fine for most people. So keep the 2 piece if you can afford it, but if not the one piece will work fine.
I know the right side is 2 piece from the factory and the left is 1 piece from the factory...so that's one of my points of confusion...the Mevotech's are both 2 piece...
 






The Mevotech part number for the one piece upper control arm/ball joint for the left side is MK8708T.
 






The Mevotech part number for the one piece upper control arm/ball joint for the left side is MK8708T.

Copied from RockAuto...
MEVOTECH Part # MK8708T {Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly}
2 PIECE DESIGN; FRONT LEFT UPPER
The left is supposed to be one piece...so is this a misprint?
 






It looks like they're calling it a 2 piece design by calling the control arm 1 piece and the ball joint 1 piece. So my guess is that on the 2 piece you can press the ball joint out, and on the 1 piece you can not. If you plan on keeping it I would go with the 2 piece then so you could just replace the ball joint in the future instead of the whole control arm.
 






they must be calling it a 2-piece because it comes with the ball joint, the mevotech upper left is a non serviceable joint, the upper has to be replaced as a whole control arm. MOOG is the only one I know of that sells the uppers as serviceable. My parts supplier's site says that its a one piece design though.
 






they must be calling it a 2-piece because it comes with the ball joint, the mevotech upper left is a non serviceable joint, the upper has to be replaced as a whole control arm. MOOG is the only one I know of that sells the uppers as serviceable. My parts supplier's site says that its a one piece design though.

They do sell a replacement ball joint for the upper control arms, I'm guessing it's meant to go in the 2 piece version of their upper control arms.
 



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If it was mine, I'd use nothing but Moog. (Come to think of it, I did!!) They've already lasted longer than either the stock or the TRW parts did. They're grease-able (the TRWs weren't).

As for the lowers, I haven't done the LCA bushings on mine yet. THey're more than a decade old with 170,000 miles on them, and yes, they're dry-rotted, and they squeak a bit, but it's not having any alignment issues, and tire wear is nice and even. I see no need to change them.

For the uppers, the local part place that got me my Moog parts didn't have the 1-piece UCA available when I changed them the last time. THey did have the Moog Problem Solver upper arm for the left and outer section of the upper arm for the right, so I went with those. Again, they've already out-lasted the OEM and TRW parts, have grease fittings, and can be swapped without pulling the arms the next time.

The driver's side should be a 1-piece arm. I've never seen anything else on that side.... ever.
 






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