need quick help, explorer dies

[dmathews]

I have a 99 explorer with the SOHC. Here latley it wants to sputer and go on and then dies, I got stuck at the gas station not to long ago, everytime I would start the car it would idle rlly rough and when I tried to give it gas it would miss and would die. Anyone have any clue to what it is. Also it is hard to start anymore, I will have it turned over and then turn back and then try again to get it to start if it has anything to do with it

 

[Joe Dirt]

Have you tried cleaning your MAF sensor?

It could be a bunch of things- TPS, IAC, etc... Have the codes pulled or pull them and post them on here, maybe there is something else going on in there...

 

[dmathews]

alright, I will go get the codes tommorow. Idk what it is, my step dad seems to think it is my fuel pump but idk, i would like to make sure before putting the money in it

 

[ranger7ltr]

Start simple....

I have a 99 explorer with the SOHC. Here latley it wants to sputer and go on and then dies, I got stuck at the gas station not to long ago, everytime I would start the car it would idle rlly rough and when I tried to give it gas it would miss and would die. Anyone have any clue to what it is. Also it is hard to start anymore, I will have it turned over and then turn back and then try again to get it to start if it has anything to do with it

Is the check engine light on? If it is, as stated earlier, pull the stored and the pending codes to see what the pcm thinks is wrong with the truck...

Since it starts you are getting at least the minimum amount of air, compression, fuel and spark needed to run...

Now....Compression should not change[unless you have head or head gasket issues...Air is being pulled into the engine[unless you have a loose/cracked/torn/misssing air inlet tube]...Spark should be consistent as well[unless wires are old/broken/missing/fell off...Fuel delivery is a constant on the 99 and newer fuel systems...Why? Pressure is set for 65+/- 7 psi so the fuel system needs at least 58 psi to satisfy running conditions...

Checking the basics...

Compression requires a gauge and removal of the plugs...Useful in this case to baseline the engines' condition...

Air delivery...Visual/physical inspection of the air tubes, vacuum lines, MAF sensor electrical and air tube connections can be done easily...

Spark...Inspection of the wires and their connections, electrical plug to the coil pack, spark plug condition and gapping...

Fuel system...Key on engine off to test the pressure with a fuel pressure gauge at the schrader valve, age and condition of the fuel filter, verification that power is going to the fuel pump, condition of the internal fuel tank and delivery of fuel from tank to the inlet side of the fuel filter...

Since the engine when it runs will idle albeit roughly and dies as load is put on it I would start with the fuel system and see if the pressure is at or near optimal and if not replace the filter and watch the fuel that comes out on the inlet side...

If you have any significant pressure at the schrader valve then the fuel pump is at least working and your focus can shift to the filter. If the filter seems clean. especially on the inlet side, then pressure readings can verify the pumps condition and/or the amount of voltage getting to the pump...If the pump voltage is at system voltage[12.5-14.5 volts] and the pressure is lower than it should be AND the filter is clean and there are no other restrictions in the system[bent/kinked fuel lines] the pump would be my first suspect as being weak...

But when was the fuel filter changed last?

 

[BigDakota]

How many miles are on you explorer? When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? When it quits running again,turn the ignition switch to off and then to on and listen for your fuel pump to buzz in your fuel tank.You can also pull the cover off the fuse box( under your hood in the engine compartment)find your fuel pump relay and listen for a clicking sound from it when you turn the ignition on and off. If it clicks, its working. If you are not sure about the relay, I think there are a couple of relays like it you can switch into the fuel relay spot temporarily and test.
If you cannot hear your fuel pump" buzz" in your fuel tank, try a hard tap or two on the fuel tank with something non-metal. Sometimes this will bump the pump to work IF your fuel pump is going bad.
I had a fuel pump going bad in my explorer and it would act up and go away until finally It could not go know more.
The fuel filter needs a special clip removal tool to release it from the fuel line. You can get buy them at most auto parts stores.

 

[dmathews]

I had just changed my fuel filter last week, the guy who helped me blew through it and it was nothing but black crap that came out. The reason I got it changed was bc when I was driving and matted it, it would kinda rev with out doing anything like I had no power but then kick in, it didnt do it all the time though. I just woke up but Im getting ready to go out and get some of this **** checked out

 

[dmathews]

I just went and got the codes and they were 171 and 174

 

[BigDakota]

Those codes mean that it has a lean air/fuel mixture. I think it showed those codes because you are not getting enough fuel to keep your engine running.The 171 code came from the right bank(passenger side) and 174 from the left bank( passenger side).
You can also get those codes if your MAF sensor is dirty or if there is a vacuum leak.

 

[dmathews]

well would the maf being dirty or a vacuum leak cause the car to to completly die, the guy at the auto store said it was probably the O2 sensor which are 100 dollars all together. The explorer has 170,x.. miles, I got it when it had 143 a year ago and havnt replaced anything. I bought a k&n air filter last year, new fuel filter last week. Just replaced a vacuum hose, every since I have had it there has been a leak but the cel has never came on until now. Could never find where is was leaking at. I bought the sensors but havnt put them on yet, i am hoping that it may not be that and can take them back, I have the olds ones taken out, Ill post a pic of what they look like. They look burnt to me but I want a second opinion

 

[dmathews]

 

[BigDakota]

The codes that you pulled are not codes for a bad 02 sensor. The codes info you have point in the direction of the fuel delivery. If your engine is starving for fuel, it will throw those codes. I would say get a fuel pressure check. So until then, when it acts up, check and do those things I suggested earlier regarding the fuel pump.
The 02 sensor in your pic looks my most that have alot of miles on them. If you have no codes for the 02 sensor,don't replace it..its up to you

 

[dmathews]

alright, I will check it out, the fuel pump is like 40 on ebay for a new one. I put them in bc i know I will probably have to replace them in the future anyway and right now I have the money, I have my battery cable disconnected that way I can see if the codes come back. If it messes up again I will try the stuff you suggested, I know the filter was rlly dirty. Im going to go clean my MAF right now just to be safe. What would the codes be for the o2 sensor and if this didnt which it probably didnt, how long until I can scan it and pull the codes.

 

[dmathews]

I guess im getting a fuel pump, it still messes up

 

[BigDakota]

With 170,000 miles on your truck the fuel pump is in the last stages of its operating life. Do you know of anyone who has a gauge to test your fuel pressure? There is fuel rail that feeds fuel to the injectors. On this fuel rail, there is a port that looks like a tire valve stem. This is where you test the fuel pressure.

 

[ranger7ltr]

Here is another part of the solution...

When you get black junk from the filter it had to come from inside the tank...I fought this type of problem for months and killed 2 fuel pumps before replacing the tank...

The problem is the inside of the tank will rust and corrode...The fuel sloshes around and some of the rust flakes off and gets picked up by the pump...Unfortunately, the filter sock DOES NOT filter out most of the dirt and rust flakes that you found in the fuel filter...I had the tank cleaned out by a radiator shop and then lined it and it STILL found rust to pump into the filter...

The solution I came up with was to replace the tank, the pump, the filter sock in the tank, the external filter and next week the injectors that I had flow matched...The new tank is absolutely clean and rust free and the new pump will not have to pump solids into the engine at this point...

I will post pictures of the old tank and the crap I drained out of the filter so you can compare what you saw to what I drained out of my tank...Frankly I could have saved a whole bunch of money and aggravation by not messing around with the old tank and just replace the tank in the first place when I found rust in it...I thought the crap came from the gas I was using but I mounted a filter in the filler neck to pull out any garbage in the fuel from the pump and in 6 months I found nothing in the filler neck but plenty in the inlet side of the filter...

I found new tanks and pumps really reasonably priced...If you want the links I can post them... The pumps are 22.25 shipped and the tanks range from 68 for a 4 dr tank to 107 for a 2dr tank...

 

[dmathews]

yeah if you could send me the link for those that would be great, ebay had the pumps for 40 shipped and I thought that was cheap.when we drop the tank I will take a look at it and see what all is in there and just drain it. I dont guess I wasted money on the o2 sensor though, those would have just went out later on. These should be good for the rest of the trucks life.

 

[ranger7ltr]

Links are inside...

and the mileage your truck has the 02 sensors are a worthwhile investment...When I bought my truck it had 151k and the 02 sensors were very sluggish...After changing them they will actually control the fuel more closely and the long term fuel trim numbers do not rise as high...

Anyway here is the link for the pump...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0171336358&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT

And the tank source...I didn't know if you have a 2 or 4 dr ....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...80466473086&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

Look at the radiator ad and you may need to email the vendor about it.. They had 10 ealier in the month of March...

 

[ranger7ltr]

Compare the rusty tank to the clean one...

Imagine what the fuel is doing to the rust inside.. The rusty tank was cleaned out by a radiator shop in Nov 09...And this stuff is being pumped into the filter through the fuel pump and I guarantee you the fuel pump doesn't like pumping solids...