need to replace drag-link end, what problems should I anticipate?

[Bored_2wd]

Autozone has the replacement draglink end (tie-rod end) for $18 bucks along with the removal tool I'll need to pop it out. Before I attempt it, what problems has everyone encountered when doing this? I'm guessing it won't be too bad popping out the old one, but unscrewing it might be if there's a lot of corrosion. with loosening the one side of the adjustment sleeve you should be able to unscrew it pretty easily, right? Will problems might I face on the floor of my garage, will the impact wrench NOT fit under the bolt, etc?
Thanks everyone, just trying to anticipate and prepare! Oh yeah, did you take off the wheel? Seems it would give more room to manuver. How long does it take? This seems like a job that would be much better on a lift than on the floor of a garage, but it's what I've got. Thanks for any replies!
--Bob

 

[Bored_2wd]

I was thinking last night, should I replace both of them? Actually, I think there's one in the center also. Should I do all of them?
--Bob

 

[Creager]

if it aint broke, dont fix it.

nah haha. its not too difficult. first off, getting the old tierod out (i mean litterally pulling it out, not unbolting it) is going to be a PAIN! that Ball joint removal tool (looks like a fork) is the best for this.

 

[Bored_2wd]

Is it as bad as the balljoints? I remember really hammering on the fork to pop out the ball joints.....

 

[Creager]

Is it as bad as the balljoints? I remember really hammering on the fork to pop out the ball joints.....

well actually removing the tierod end from the draglink isnt that difficult. I believe the tie-rod end comes with a threaded rod that you use use to replace the existing peice? You just unscrew the old one and screw the new one in...

its seperating the tie-rod end from the knuckle, or from the centerlink, that's a PAIN in the ARSE!

that is what im talking about...

 

[Bored_2wd]

Yes, exactly. You have to loosen up the adjustment sleeve on one side to allow it to unscrew, how bad is that? If getting the tierod to pop out is anything like the ball joint, it's gonna be some serious pounding.
Once I change the tierod, and replace the rear swaybar brackets, I'll be able to start working on the body bushings..... ah the work that never ends....
--Bob

 

[Creager]

Yes, exactly. You have to loosen up the adjustment sleeve on one side to allow it to unscrew, how bad is that? If getting the tierod to pop out is anything like the ball joint, it's gonna be some serious pounding.
--Bob

It will thread right out the adjusting sleeve no problem

getting the tierod out of the knuckle... whew different story. that Fork tool will come in handy. otherwise a pry bar and a BFH will do the trick.

Once you get the castle nut off, flip it upside-down and thread it back on the stud until its flush with the tip of the stud. Hammer the crap out of it. That should budge it.

They dont sell those castle nuts at Lowes or homedepot (eheh i looked) so becareful you DO have it upside-down before you smack the crap out of it.