Need wiring diagram or info

[SammyM00782]

Hey gents! I was wondering if anyone had the wiring schematic that involves the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank all the way though to the engine compartment. I read "E" pretty much all the time except for the occasion where it might inch a little towards "F". When I bought a few factory service manuals it came with a 1994 Aerostar Electrical and Vacuum troubleshooting manual instead of the Explorer one. Knew that but the two main books were 28 bucks! Basically I need to make sure I don't have a short between points A and B and I seriously doubt the Aerostar is the same. I'm ordering the rest of the books for the Explorer but they won't be here until November 21st and it'd be nice to know how much fuel I have. I also have a smell of fuel after shutoff with no leaks (yet), LR tire area so I'm assuming I'm going to have to drop the tank anyway. I've already found shorted ABS wires, power mirror and headlight harness so I just wanna make sure. Thanks in advance.

 

[swshawaii]

http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

 

[SammyM00782]

Wow....I'm at the computer everyday and I've never found this site of gold, google or not. Thanks man, epic save.

 

[larrydd999]

Sammy, if you're still working on your fuel gauge/sender wiring I checked my Ford wiring diagram and found the sender wire as #29 , a yellow wire with a white stripe. While troubleshooting a similar problem with my '92 I checked this wire (with my meter between the wire and ground) at the square plug in the engine compartment on the driver's side near the firewall. My sender read a fairly high resistance (over 100 ohms, I don't recall the actual number) on my meter, which told me the sender circuit was fine and the float had failed and was resting on the bottom of the tank. Had the circuit read infinity either the sender or the wiring would have had a broken circuit. Had it read near zero ohms it would have been shorted (but then the gauge would read full all of the time). I had a local shop drop the tank and replace the sender. Let us know what you find.

 

[SammyM00782]

Thanks for your help sir. Unfortunately I'm going to have to drop the gas tank anyway due to the fact it completely reeks of gasoline every time I shut it off. I've read quite a few posts where people were stating the nipples connecting the fuel lines were rotted away and being as my brake lines blew out the day I purchased it I'm not doubting this could also be a problem. I'm not a big fan of dropping gas tanks but at least this isn't a Jeep GC or ANY of my old Firebirds lol. Seems somewhat straight-forward it's just everything is covered in rust. Not shocking as I live in NJ and they're already out there tonight spraying that **** on the roads. I can just hear my metal parts rusting already haha.

 

[SammyM00782]

So after some yelling and screaming obscenities for over an hour, the fuel tank finally came out. The hard lines coming from the pump were literally falling apart from rust, the filler neck hoses are shot and I honestly have no idea how to get this pump out. Manual says I need a lock ring tool but I could have sworn you can get this out without one. Am I nuts? As mentioned before, I'm more experienced with GM products and you can get those out with a brass drift and a flat head. New Delphi pump with lock ring and seal is on the way, should probably start seeking out replacement filler hoses but can I remove this pump without another specialty tool? Wires all have continuity btw so no short there, turn of the key shows the fuel gauge going back to "F" like a good boy lol. Ohms on the pump side are reading 1.4 ohms but Empty reading should be between 19.1 and 23 ohms depending on who's pump you buy but the hard lines are shot anyway. I'm gonna strip the actual pump off since it's still good, always nice to have a backup JIC.

 

[vq5speed]

You don't need a special tool. I was able to remove mine easily with a standard screwdriver and a hammer. Just alternated tapping the tab till it twisted off.

 

[SammyM00782]

You don't need a special tool. I was able to remove mine easily with a standard screwdriver and a hammer. Just alternated tapping the tab till it twisted off.

Man, if it were that easy. You wouldn't believe the amount of rust on that thing and tapping it with a screwdriver isn't a good idea unless that tank is drained and fume free, which mine is not. In any event, I borrowed a set of brass drift pins and ended up using the chisel piece to just get it lose enough to crumble away. It literally folded like tin foil once it broke free. Now I just hope the tank part of it holds up for one more install.

 

[vq5speed]

Mine tank wasn't empty when I did mine. Tapping it the way I said would never make an open spark to ignite the gas. You might think about getting a replacement tank if the lock ring was that rusted..

 

[SammyM00782]

Mine tank wasn't empty when I did mine. Tapping it the way I said would never make an open spark to ignite the gas.

It's just the way I was taught, to always use brass so you don't even have to worry about a spark.

 

[SammyM00782]

Well, after some order issues with Amazon I finally got her back on the road. The original lock ring was so rusted the tabs were flaking off as I was trying to get it out so I ended up having to chisel it out. It was so bad it literally just peeled right out of there. This is definitely this fuel tanks first and last pump replacement. I have filler hoses coming soon from oddly enough, FillerNeckSupply.com for 40 bucks. Once that last piece comes in this puzzle is done for now. Now I need to get a manual hub conversion because the auto hubs are done, never worked at all in the snow yesterday. Thanks for all the help and advice guys and have a Happy Thanksgiving!