need your guys help with 5.5lift and wheel toe prob

[madmike]

Has anyone had a problem with the front wheels toeing in after a 5.5 lift, mine are and the shop says its gonna be like $150 for the shims and realignment. if anyone has anysuggestions let me know. also I dont have the extended radius arms yet. thanks mike you can kind of see it here.

 

[Derrick C.]

I know I do!!!

I get it aligned and its fine, but the first time I go wheelin its back to all toed in. I don't know what it is but if anyone has an idea to fix it for good then I'm up for suggestions.

 

[FMExplorer]

I tend to have more of a problem with camber than toe...

My solution? $110 for a lifetime alignment at Firestone - good at any Firestone in the country. Best part is, I was told it covers the ownership of the vehicle - meaning, I swap axles and it's still covered...

One thing I did was have the camber set slightly positive - so far this has held a bit longer than the rest of the alignments.

J

PS - I haven't swapped... yet!

 

[Adam Foote]

join the crowd

i too am having a problem with this, its going to cost 200 to get fixed

 

[jimmiecakes]

Looks like it's time for a dropped pitman arm. The tie rods need to follow the angle of the I-beams as closely as possible. But if you've followed another thread WTF do I know,,,

 

[CoryL]

Please be sure that you know what you are talking about.

Simply speaking...

Toe is the amount (in inches) that the front of the tires point in or out. If the front of the tires are pointed in, you have them "toed in" and if they are pointed out, they are "toed out."

Camber is the amount the top of the tires are in or out. If the tops are pointed in, you have "Negative Camber" and if they are pointed out you have "Positive Camber."

Caster really isn't relative right now, so I won't go into it.

So which problem do you have?

How long have you had the lift in? Springs do sag and this will change your camber. Bad steering parts can affect your toe.

No matter what, anything more than $50 for an alignment and $30 for setting the toe is a rip off, if you already have adjustable camber bushings that will work. If you don't, the price for those bushings should be no more than $50.

 

[madmike]

Thanks cory, I have a camber prob, I looked on top where the upper ball joint is and there is an adjuster on there but have to get the right socket to turn it , its a 12 star i think, anyway do you think that if i put some 1 1/4" coil spacers in it would drop back to normal, I have had the lift on since november and it has been getting worse since january.when I lift up on the bumper they go back to normal. thanks, mike

 

[CoryL]

Are they the stock camber bushings or are they aftermarket with more adjustability?

You are now a player in the game of spring sag. From what I have experienced, seen and heard is that Superlift has some of the worst springs for sagging.

All springs sag, some just faster than others.

I would take it to the alignment shop as is and find out how many degrees off the bushings are as is.

Then depending on I found out, here is what I would do.

First, I would ask if they offer a lifetime alignment special.

Then I would try getting some of the 3/4" steel washer spacers that Superlift makes if the camber is off just a little.

If it is off more, I would look for new 6" coil spring. Skyjackers are OK, but I would go with the Eibach spring Camburg sells. It would function as a 6" coil in the 4wd application and will sag minimally.

I ran those coils on my pre-runner and they barely sagged. I think I had one alignment done on that truck the whole time I ran those springs.

I would avoid rubber spacers and the like. I've used them without much success at all. They usually end up getting chewed up or rotting out. That's just my experience though. Some people here think they are the most wonderful creation.

However, before you DO go to get an alignment, make sure that all of your ball joints are not toast. If there is any play in them whatsoever, it will render the alignment useless.

 

[FMExplorer]

Mike,
I had the same problem - and found the fix (as far as my truck is concerned)...

For the camber issue - bad u-joints. Every single u-joint was about frozen. What was happening was the ujoints would put extra pressure on the steering knuckles via the spindles whenever I turned. I replaced all 3 front joints and re-greased the skip yoke and the problem disappeared...

For caster - that's another issue...

I bent the i-beams for a 2nd time now (I guess I ride Tramp a bit hard). Now I am looking at other options (solid or modified TTB)

I would check your u-joints before doing anything - slip the axles out by taking the spindle off and pulling them out. If the joints are frozen in any direction then replace them. The only c-clip up front is on the passenger side - you remove the axle at the slip yoke underneath the boot...

Hope this helps

J

 

[madmike]

UPDATE

well just got off the phone with the superlift tech, and apparently the 118 coil springs that I got from 4wparts is too weak for my application , explorer with 5.5, he said the motor and truck was too heavy, so being the cool guy he was , he is sending me a new set of the 133 coils for free and free shipping to send my old ones back. just thought I would let you all know , in case you had the same problem. my coils were only on since nov and already crapped out. later

 

[madmike]

got the 133's on last night, now they are just the opposite, the top of the tires are out farther than the bottoms and when I tried to go over 20 mph the steering wheel freaked out from side to side, anyone have any suggestions. do i need the adjusters????? help.

 

[offroader_69_me]

sound like you need an alignment know, should just need a regular one with no additions. The new coils are more than likely taller than the old sagging coils therefore throwing the alignment off!

 

[madmike]

Ya I finally got my hands on a 12mm twelve pt deep socket and adjusted the factory camber adjustments, they are damn neer perfect and had to align it again, she is running straight again, and didnt even have to get the bushings from superlift. I do however need to get the longer radius arms to fix the castor, I have a friend who is working on a prototype crossmember that incorporates the radius arms mounting to it, it is very beefy looking. I have some new custom shackles being made to lift the back to be even with the new springs. I'm currently working on the front end putting my front reciever for my winch on and working on the back, kind of sucks with the body lift , we have to mod alot. later.

 

[offroader_69_me]

glad to hear you got it going