New Explorer Owner, Steering Clunk Problem

[erixon]

Hey guys, I just picked up a 99 explorer sport for $1300... pretty cheap, but it has some issues. I suspect the clutch cylinder is faulty, as it was a little loose when I started driving, then after time it built some pressure when pumping. The steering, when turning hard, "clunks". It's not the same as a CV joint going bad, seems fairly violent when it does pop. Can anyone help me out?

 

[erixon]

Hmm so I did some thinking, sounded like the 4X4 was on... so I hop back into the truck after coming on here and reading about the 4X4 being stuck... 4H is the only one that lights up at all.. when I switch to auto or 4L it displays nothing... help?

 

[eXcali]

In order to get 4lo I do believe you have to place it into nuetral, press the brake and then switch it.
As for the pop, I would suspect either CV's going bad. When they are bone dry it will make an aweful popping sound when taken to the furthest extents. To rule out your steering joints/arms/etc jack it up off the ground and with the engine off turn it to the point you feel a bind before it pops. After that get out and see if you can feel where the bind is coming from.

A quick test to see if it's stuck in 4x4 is to turn your wheel hard, put it in reverse and see if the front tires are biting causing it to jerk while you back it up. You can do the same thing in drive gear, but it's more noticible in reverse.

 

[erixon]

In order to get 4lo I do believe you have to place it into nuetral, press the brake and then switch it.
As for the pop, I would suspect either CV's going bad. When they are bone dry it will make an aweful popping sound when taken to the furthest extents. To rule out your steering joints/arms/etc jack it up off the ground and with the engine off turn it to the point you feel a bind before it pops. After that get out and see if you can feel where the bind is coming from.

A quick test to see if it's stuck in 4x4 is to turn your wheel hard, put it in reverse and see if the front tires are biting causing it to jerk while you back it up. You can do the same thing in drive gear, but it's more noticible in reverse.

Its not the Cv's... I know what that sounds like. Its just like it were in 4WD.

 

[eXcali]

Its not the Cv's... I know what that sounds like. Its just like it were in 4WD.

There shouldn't be any "violent" popping even if you are in 4wd, only biting of tires and maybe some creaking noises.

 

[erixon]

well its not like a loud pop or anything, you can hear it though. And it feels like there is resistance when the wheel is cranked... it feels like its in 4x4... i dunno. when I change the 4x4 options, my foot is on the brake, in neutral, then then I turn the thing from 4 auto into 4 high, the light comes on, when i go to 4 low, the 4 high light just stays on. and when I go back to 4 auto it comes off....

 

[erixon]

I dunno you guys, every time I go out there I come to another conclusion. I dont get it, it happens like even if the steering wheel isnt cranked all the way, even if its just a bit turned i get resistance, clunk, resistance, clunk. and the cv boost arent cracked anywhere or anything. Tie rod is leaking on drivers side, but I dont think that would result in the whole truck clunking creeping this slow, with a bang.

OKAY. 3 people at work all think its the 4wd sticking... Could it be the transfer case shift motor? Thats what I was suggested by one guy here... he is fairly mechanically inclined.

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

I might be wrong, but don't the trucks with 4WD Auto, Hi, Lo always have some 4WD engaged with Auto providing varying amounts of FWD as the rear wheels slip?

In mine I can tell that I have some front wheel bind when turning on dry roads. In deep snow or ice when the rears start to slip the fronts start working harder. That's just in Auto mode. If I place it in 4Hi I get a front/rear mix but I only ever use that in really slippery stuff as the Auto mode works well for my conditions.

 

[TheJackal]

I might be wrong, but don't the trucks with 4WD Auto, Hi, Lo always have some 4WD engaged with Auto providing varying amounts of FWD as the rear wheels slip?

In mine I can tell that I have some front wheel bind when turning on dry roads. In deep snow or ice when the rears start to slip the fronts start working harder. That's just in Auto mode. If I place it in 4Hi I get a front/rear mix but I only ever use that in really slippery stuff as the Auto mode works well for my conditions.

I was just reading something about 4wd mode and yes, it is on in Auto. But you shouldn't use Low or Hi when on pavement; only Auto, because then it can adjust it itself.

 

[my98nnj]

In AUTO, the only time the front gets any real power is when the transfer case detects slip in the rear.

To the OP - It does sound as if your stuck in 4W High. That binding sensation and pop noise on dry roadway when turning is a very good sign of that. Being you can't get into 4 Low also tells me you've got an issue with the transfer case.

 

[erixon]

So I had a mechanic come out and look at it today, he showed me whats happening, he said its the front diff thats messed up. I can actually get it into 4 low now too... he showed me when you turn, the front driveshaft turns, and then it like buckles, and snaps loose. Does this sound right to you guys?

 

[eXcali]

4 Auto is 2wd and it transfers to 4wd automatically when it detects rear wheel slip.

As for the front diff, If you don't know how to do it yourself take it to a place that does Free inspections, ask them to change the fluid on it and inspect it. If there is an issue they will find it right away 9 times out of 10. When differentials fail there is almost always metal splinters or chunks in the fluid they drain.

 

[erixon]

4 Auto is 2wd and it transfers to 4wd automatically when it detects rear wheel slip.

As for the front diff, If you don't know how to do it yourself take it to a place that does Free inspections, ask them to change the fluid on it and inspect it. If there is an issue they will find it right away 9 times out of 10. When differentials fail there is almost always metal splinters or chunks in the fluid they drain.

yeah,but the guy who looked at it was a journeyman from City Ford here, He said it wasnt the transfer case. But would the front diff even cause problems if it was in auto anyways, should it even be turning at all?

 

[eXcali]

yeah,but the guy who looked at it was a journeyman from City Ford here, He said it wasnt the transfer case. But would the front diff even cause problems if it was in auto anyways, should it even be turning at all?

The t-case should not be turning the front Drive Shaft at all under normal conditions, only when the rear wheels slip. If there was an issue with the front differential I would imagine it would have those noise problems if you drove straight, not just turning. If you have someone with a well-trained ear, have them listen from outside the truck while you replicate the sounds.

We can give advise here and try to steer you in the right direction, but I'd have to side with someone who was there and actually looking at the vehicle. If the guy said there is a problem with the front differential I'd get it checked out.

 

[erixon]

Yeah, I talked to the guy a bit more, he sounds like he knows what he is talking about. So we'll see how things go I guess. If it isnt the diff, at least I will have one with only 20,000 kms on it! haha.. but if i have to get a transfer case in the end, I'll be pissed no doubt. He said he would refund me though if things didnt work out.

 

[erixon]

Update: The mechanic looking at my Explorer said the front diff was completely mangled. He said it looked like someone tried to replace it once already, because it looks to be the wrong gearing in the diff...Said it was suprising it even turned still, bonerific. The transfer case seems okay so far I guess, apparently he said it shifts in and out alright. So meh, seems like everything is going okay so far.