GuitarsnCars
New Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2013
- Messages
- 2
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Winnipeg Manitoba
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1998 F/Exp/S 4.0l SOHC
Hello there, new to this site, but became a member after reading a how to job on the 4.0l Check Engine Issue..
I have been doing it myself "If you will" for about 20 plus yrs or so, Like all of the new/used vehicle's I buy there is always something.. So upon down sizing from a 5.9l Lincoln Navigator Ult? I scooped this 1998 Ford Explorer 2dr 4.0L sohc, In really nice condition, worth the 3000,00 safetied for sure, and came fully loaded for it's yr.. Shortly after pulling my Cruiser Boat the 1st time the Check Eng came on, and it quickly snowballed from there.. After sometime had passed I finally got around to do some reading online, As I'm new to this Particular Ford Truck. it appeared the Intake Gaskets were either "part" or maybe all of my PROBLEM, After reading a thread on this site..
Firstly, After going through the FULL process of changing the gaskets and ALL other components with the fuel system/ Intake & senors? I discovered a small leak still sucking false air at the INTAKE INLET TUBE, EGR Valve even with a new Intake Inlet O ring? To "me" upon further investigation? It appeared as though part of the INNER LIP that the GREEN O RING sits against In the Intake simply wore away? Possibly from the heat & Ridiculous amounts of CARBON build up in the area..
Simple FIX for me was some High Heat Resistance Muffler Tape!! I carefully sealed the area at the intake and egr valve inlet tube, And Presto The Check Engine light went away IMMEDIATELY.. So? If this check Eng problem is still occurring after replacing all Relative Intake Components? Check that tube area Because there is a deceptive HISS from the Drive Belt Components, that through me OFF, when I took a Emory Cloth around certain Intake area's? I discovered the leak Right away!! I use This kind of Cloth, Because I hate spraying any kind of Flammable Substance around intake area's?? Unless I have to.. After my Diagnosis, it STOPPED Hissing and began to run SMOOTH right away when the cloth came close to the BREACHED Area,and blocked it Allowing me to easily fix it with the Muffler Tape. Has been fine for a month now. Fuel costs & General Operation is great!
Second thing I tackled on this Truck was the Daytime Running Lights.. "Mine were not going off?" So pulling the Fuse in the eng comp was all I could for the time being!
This was interesting "REPAIR" because the Obvious fix is the Mod~Dual?? Maybe wiring? maybe even a fuse? well not in my case, after again doing some more reading, I decided before I change the Mod, I will attempt to crack the code on the key pad entry see if it rests anything?? Because it did reset some systems on my Lincoln. After figuring out the K/P code, I locked the doors then unlocked them with the 5 digit # mine had pre programmed, It was easy to figure out the code on my Driver Door Key pad? Because there was"tell tail ware" So that gave it away after 30 mins or so of doing combinations...lol
Anyways, after the code entry on the door, My DTRL came on along with my Fog/Lights, It also fixed a Start issue with my Com/Start, and the Factory Theft System BOTH of which for no good reason would turn the fuel pump OFF once in a while in between Com/Starts... So no need for a fix it was all in the Key pad..lol Thankfully the owner was Honest enough to tell ME before hand he had some issues with the Electrical system after replacing a Alternator and disconnecting the Battery.. Nice when people tell the truth about what they touched? Isn't it! I always do.. Just my personal preference..
My future projects include...lol 2 seals, upper and lower Ball Joints. 1 U joint, Muffler complete to tail pipe.. I like it here kinda Like Iboats.com where I'm a member with my Cruiser..
OK thanks for the help with out even knowing your site Helped!! lol
I'm very Fortunate To have a Dad that is a Pro Mechanic? Or I would never been doing it myself all these years.. He still a lead DIESEL Volvo Mechanic in his late 60s..
Cheers.
GuitarsnCars..
I always say, If it aint Broke? Don't Fix it..
I have been doing it myself "If you will" for about 20 plus yrs or so, Like all of the new/used vehicle's I buy there is always something.. So upon down sizing from a 5.9l Lincoln Navigator Ult? I scooped this 1998 Ford Explorer 2dr 4.0L sohc, In really nice condition, worth the 3000,00 safetied for sure, and came fully loaded for it's yr.. Shortly after pulling my Cruiser Boat the 1st time the Check Eng came on, and it quickly snowballed from there.. After sometime had passed I finally got around to do some reading online, As I'm new to this Particular Ford Truck. it appeared the Intake Gaskets were either "part" or maybe all of my PROBLEM, After reading a thread on this site..
Firstly, After going through the FULL process of changing the gaskets and ALL other components with the fuel system/ Intake & senors? I discovered a small leak still sucking false air at the INTAKE INLET TUBE, EGR Valve even with a new Intake Inlet O ring? To "me" upon further investigation? It appeared as though part of the INNER LIP that the GREEN O RING sits against In the Intake simply wore away? Possibly from the heat & Ridiculous amounts of CARBON build up in the area..
Simple FIX for me was some High Heat Resistance Muffler Tape!! I carefully sealed the area at the intake and egr valve inlet tube, And Presto The Check Engine light went away IMMEDIATELY.. So? If this check Eng problem is still occurring after replacing all Relative Intake Components? Check that tube area Because there is a deceptive HISS from the Drive Belt Components, that through me OFF, when I took a Emory Cloth around certain Intake area's? I discovered the leak Right away!! I use This kind of Cloth, Because I hate spraying any kind of Flammable Substance around intake area's?? Unless I have to.. After my Diagnosis, it STOPPED Hissing and began to run SMOOTH right away when the cloth came close to the BREACHED Area,and blocked it Allowing me to easily fix it with the Muffler Tape. Has been fine for a month now. Fuel costs & General Operation is great!
Second thing I tackled on this Truck was the Daytime Running Lights.. "Mine were not going off?" So pulling the Fuse in the eng comp was all I could for the time being!
This was interesting "REPAIR" because the Obvious fix is the Mod~Dual?? Maybe wiring? maybe even a fuse? well not in my case, after again doing some more reading, I decided before I change the Mod, I will attempt to crack the code on the key pad entry see if it rests anything?? Because it did reset some systems on my Lincoln. After figuring out the K/P code, I locked the doors then unlocked them with the 5 digit # mine had pre programmed, It was easy to figure out the code on my Driver Door Key pad? Because there was"tell tail ware" So that gave it away after 30 mins or so of doing combinations...lol
Anyways, after the code entry on the door, My DTRL came on along with my Fog/Lights, It also fixed a Start issue with my Com/Start, and the Factory Theft System BOTH of which for no good reason would turn the fuel pump OFF once in a while in between Com/Starts... So no need for a fix it was all in the Key pad..lol Thankfully the owner was Honest enough to tell ME before hand he had some issues with the Electrical system after replacing a Alternator and disconnecting the Battery.. Nice when people tell the truth about what they touched? Isn't it! I always do.. Just my personal preference..
My future projects include...lol 2 seals, upper and lower Ball Joints. 1 U joint, Muffler complete to tail pipe.. I like it here kinda Like Iboats.com where I'm a member with my Cruiser..
OK thanks for the help with out even knowing your site Helped!! lol
I'm very Fortunate To have a Dad that is a Pro Mechanic? Or I would never been doing it myself all these years.. He still a lead DIESEL Volvo Mechanic in his late 60s..
Cheers.
GuitarsnCars..
I always say, If it aint Broke? Don't Fix it..
