New Member with alot of work to do..hehe

[dbrightb]

Howdy all!
Well I have purchased a 93 XLT from my friends mother. Excellent shape aside from the usual stuff (wheel bearings.. ball joints.. radius arm bushing..ect...ect..) So I am looking at throwing a 4" lift on this sucka but would like to know from everyone what else I should take a look at and check while I am installing this lift?
It has 109K with no rust.. towed a camper to Mich a few times with it (previous owner).

Thanks in advance for the replies!

 

[manaen]

Welcome neighbor, your only about 30 min from me.

service the transmission, check all the fluids, flush the cooling system (but thats the normal stuff) You've covered the most common issues with gen1's. I would say the a good rust check on your frame, and brakes lines. The gen1 lines tend to rust quickly, especially the ones under the hood.

which lift kit you gonna use, I've installed a rough country on a gen 1 and it went well if you have the right tools.

Oh and post some pictures

 

[manaen]

which engine and tranny do you have?

oh and what rear end do you have, it would be good to service that as well. If it is a limited slip rear end be sure to use a good synthetic gear oil along with the limited slip additive

 

[dbrightb]

which engine and tranny do you have?

oh and what rear end do you have, it would be good to service that as well. If it is a limited slip rear end be sure to use a good synthetic gear oil along with the limited slip additive

Howdy manaen!
Well I have a V6 245 4.0L with a Dana35 front and Ford 8.8 Rear.
For any other specifics on the tranny I will have to look for any markings this weekend.
I have the Tuff Country kit as well, looks to me a simple but weekend labor job. I have everything I need for this (I hope!). New Drop Pitman arm, Skyjacker shocks, Tuff 4" kit, Steering Stabilizer, 31x10.5 Tires + Rims and lots of Gojo. One question I have is, What degree camber/caster adjuster shim is needed? Better question is What do you have on yours? I can get a 0-4deg which should cover the alignment so I can install this when I do the ball joints.


Thanks!

 

[manaen]

don't be surprised if you need to add some spacers with that 4" kit in the front to level things out a bit. I think the springs in the kit were not designed for the 4.0l weight so with the 4.0 it rides a little lower in the front.

You don use shims for alignment, you need to get adjustable bushings, actually I may have a brand new set laying around that I purchased for a ranger and never used (I didn't need them) I would sell them cheap. Sometimes you can get away with just using the stock cams and rotating them, it won't get you into perfect alignment but it should be good.

Oh make sure you re torque your pitman arm when you put the new one on. Mine came loose after it's initial install, my theory is that the powder coat on the new piece didn't allow the pitman arm to seat properly and once it wears down things start to get loose.

While your doing the lift, replace your radius arm bushing if the kit did not come with them.

You will need a small grinder with a cutoff wheel to remove the studs from the original TTB bracket. I tried a drill but those babies are hard, the grinder worked best, just grind the head off and take a large hammer and drift pin to pound those rivets right out. They will pop right out...

that's all I can think of right now, I will check for those alignment bushings..

 

[dbrightb]

don't be surprised if you need to add some spacers with that 4" kit in the front to level things out a bit. I think the springs in the kit were not designed for the 4.0l weight so with the 4.0 it rides a little lower in the front.

You don use shims for alignment, you need to get adjustable bushings, actually I may have a brand new set laying around that I purchased for a ranger and never used (I didn't need them) I would sell them cheap. Sometimes you can get away with just using the stock cams and rotating them, it won't get you into perfect alignment but it should be good.

Oh make sure you re torque your pitman arm when you put the new one on. Mine came loose after it's initial install, my theory is that the powder coat on the new piece didn't allow the pitman arm to seat properly and once it wears down things start to get loose.

While your doing the lift, replace your radius arm bushing if the kit did not come with them.

You will need a small grinder with a cutoff wheel to remove the studs from the original TTB bracket. I tried a drill but those babies are hard, the grinder worked best, just grind the head off and take a large hammer and drift pin to pound those rivets right out. They will pop right out...

that's all I can think of right now, I will check for those alignment bushings..

Correct.. I meant to say adjustable bushings. The radius arm bushing is new, so i dont have that awfull "clunking" when off road. The radius arm bracket where it mounts to the frame is bolted on. I remember it said on the install instructions that It would be riveted on.. good luck with that one so far.
thanks for the advice on the TTB bracket! I will have my grinder ready.