New pullies, do you use the stock washers when reinstalling?

[beach]

Changing out the pullies, manual nor online says what to do, just says reinstall lol. The stock pullies have those like beveled washers that go in front of the bearing and then bolt through that. But on the new ones it sounds like the washer touches more and rubs. Like on the lower idler pulley in this pic, the bolt has that flange that seems to just cover the metal inside the red part. The stock beveled washer next to it seems to rub.

Just not sure if some reinstall new pullies with just the bolt, or do you need that washer?

 

[Flash]

Bolt it up with the washer, if the washer interferes then remove it.
The bearing looks nicely sealed.

 

[beach]

Kinda figured, just wanted to check before I did something and self-destruct the pullies while running lol.

 

[ccm2001]

While your in there change your tensioner pulley

 

[beach]

Yeah already doing upper, lower, and tensioner pulley. Was def the lower one making the noise which seems to be the case 95% of the time when people are trying to figure what pulley is going bad lol. But already bought the others as good measure.

Next will be to install the new clutch/pulley assembly for the compressor which does not look fun

 

[intelisevil]

You should reuse the washer. If the washer is rubbing on the new part, look carefully to see if the new part is the correct replacement part.

 

[beach]

You should reuse the washer. If the washer is rubbing on the new part, look carefully to see if the new part is the correct replacement part.

Yeah these are all the direct replacements from Duralast, checked part numbers from others that used them in these trucks. Could have been the way I was holding it, won't know till I bolt it up, just haven't had time yet to do that and some other work like the condenser pulley.

Thought it was odd these were like a dense plastic vs stock metal ones, but good reviews online across all makes even years down the road. Nobody had metal ones or if these did out of stock or incorrect parts, had a set from Advanced and they were wrong. Had a coupon for Autozone so got those.

 

[J_C]

The bearing turns really smooth without a lot of play, so it looks good and not some manufacturer defect? If it looks good you'll have to leave the washer out. You could get a smaller washer but if it's only the size of the bolt head I don't see the point.

You could also see if Autozone has any more and if they also rub.

 

[scdix50]

Throw away the washer, it has no real function.

 

[shucker1]

Heck I just buy the raw bearings and push the old ones out and push the new bearings in.

I still got the steel pullies.

 

[J_C]

Throw away the washer, it has no real function.

It does help to reduce grime around the seal, though that poly seal may also do a better job at that than the original seal alone did.

 

[SoNic67]

Throw away the washer, it has no real function.

Except when you screw bottoms out in the hole and you still have 1/8" to go...

 

[beach]

Bolted in, all seems to be ok. Very very faint hint of rubbing which seems to maybe be the washer hitting the a sliver of the outter plastic, worse case I'm sure that'll just wear enough to fit fine and won't affect anything since the bearing is fine. Thought I almost stripped the tensioner housing though, close one, as stores had the pulley but not the whole tensioner assembly.

Funny though, even searching in here of peeps trying to figure out where sound is coming from, seems to always be the lower idler pulley after replacing everything from other pulleys and even the alternator. Not sure why, maybe a ton of tension on that spot? All the other pulleys at 145k were fine (upper and tensioner), some sound, but no where near the lower idler. Alternator, water, fan etc all ok. So anybody hearing that whirring loud sound from the engine, replace lower idler first . Other pulleys were so cheap figured might as well replace them. Especially since the damn t-stat bolts can't be taken off without taking off the upper pulley each time. I have a bunch of extensions and couldn't get any to fit right in that space as theres barely any room to unbolt then, easier to take the pulley off each time (flushing and then going to put a new t-stat in after). Plus I stripped it years ago and had to have a shop drill out which took hours and heat and penetrating oil to avoid damaging the aluminum threads, so wanted to be super careful.

 

[SoNic67]

Maybe all other idlers were replaced before, except this one, due to access issues?

 

[J_C]

It does help to reduce grime around the seal, though that poly seal may also do a better job at that than the original seal alone did.

Something else you could have done was put a smaller washer under it, maybe a fender washer would have the right sized hole for that bolt (or be drilled out to size) and also a compatible diameter.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I ran into the same problem with the replacement pulley I bought at O'Reilly's for our Aerostar. Tightened up with the washer, pulley wouldn't turn. Without the washer, the bolt bottoms out before it contacts the pulley. Went to the salvage yard and got a used one. They used the same pulley on lots of models and years.