New to ford. Free 91 explore 4x4

[91explorer420]

Well I am a Volvo guy and have been for 12 years now. Never owned a ford but free is free. Well my new toy as I still have two volvos. 78 242 track car and 94 940 also was a free car. So 91 explore xlt 4x4 86,000 miles on it. What's should I be looking for as of problems with these models. It had the transmission replaced with a used one. Seems to shift a little ruff and what not but still drives. Just going to use it for camping and little 4x4ing. One last thing I just need a simple budget lift to run say 31 a/t.

 

[Rhett]

Hi Welcome

First of all, if that runs, and the 4x4 works, it's a steal for free. But you know that. The 4.0 OHV is very reliable if nothing else. The A4LD trans, not so much.

Common issues, rear main seal seepage...auto transmission (hopefully, that won't be an issue for you since your trans has been rebuilt)...automatic hubs can be failure-prone... rocker panel rust, particularly underneath the body cladding....all I can think of offhand. These are generally pretty tough reliable vehicles outside of the auto trans.

For your truck it's not mileage but rather age that is the issue. Probably want to silicone all door seals and hatch seal. Also the radius arm bushings should be checked.

On your tranny hard shifting, it's possible that it does not have many miles on the rebuild, so it may smooth out a little in 1,000 miles. However, that would concern me, I would make sure the fluid level is ok. Maybe the shop that rebuilt it, warrantees their work. They should if they are reputable.

 

[91explorer420]

Awesome yeah runs and drives fine. When it gets to my house I will go threw all the fluids. Radius arm bushing have been replaced already. Seals on doors done less then 10 years ago with the paint job. I am in sunny so cal so rust won't be an issue. Thanks for the input. What about those ****ty plastic vacuum lines. Is there a better solution to these.

 

[gmbroy]

get you some silicone tubing , works great & looks good especially if you get the blue stuff . do a search on this forum i saw it somewhere on here . let me know if you cant find the thread & I will try to find it for you !!! Best of luck to ya . http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=409864&highlight=vacuum+lines Here is a link to the silicon tubing !!!

 

[arco777]

Welcome! Never seen that style of center cap before! 91 had a few odd wheel/hubcap options. 91 also had a few year-specific items such as the floor pan shape under the front seats and the dash bezel.

+1 on the auto hubs, if you want reliability you'll want manual ones. If you can find a set of used stock ones, they were made for Ford by Warn so they are tough. Or you can get new Warn or Mile Marker hubs for a reasonable price, though you'll need the hardware conversion kit.

Trans is the weak spot on these models. Half the problem is the stock trans cooler is far too small for most climates. Needs a second cooler run inline with it, which isn't expensive. Even a cheap Hayden tube and fin style added inline will do the job. Keep an eye on the trans temps with a temp gauge.

If the trans doesn't shift right, you may want to rebuild the valve body with a shift correction kit. If the transmission in it has some miles, the valve body may have sediment and sticking valves, which you can fix along with common shift issues using a shift correction kit. If you have a small torque wrench and attention to detail you can do the whole job in a couple days for under $100. One of the best upgrades I ever did.

Engines are reliable but stock cylinder heads are prone to issues with the castings, resulting in tiny cracks that will seem like you have a blown head gasket. This will result in head gasket-like symptoms but a gasket will only be a temporary fix. Permanent fix is new aftermarket (not remanufactured) cylinder heads. 500k mile motor otherwise.

Electrical systems are durable and reliable. 130A alternator is an easy upgrade, get one made for a later model Explorer for cheap from the parts store. Can swap it in 10 minutes.

Fuel injection systems are generally reliable. MAF sensors get dirty or fail occasionally. On a 91 that's about it. At this age your stock fuel pump could be rusty and varnished up so if you have power issues check your fuel pressure.

 

[larrydd999]

And the fuel gauge will likely quit working at some point - unless it already has and the float assembly (or perhaps the entire pump and float assembly) has been replaced. The float develops holes and fills with fuel.

 

[91explorer420]

Thanks all for the info. arco777 great info I am my own BYM. So plan was to run a second cooler for the trans. Drain and replace all fluids trans filters. Now as for the hubs is this just a bolt over option if i find a set at the junk yard. How about the vacuum activated 4wd. do these give issues. As for the fuel pump this car had been babied by a wealthy family before my buddy. Seem to have plenty of service records so will go throw and see what was done. Again thanks all.

 

[91explorer420]

get you some silicone tubing , works great & looks good especially if you get the blue stuff . do a search on this forum i saw it somewhere on here . let me know if you cant find the thread & I will try to find it for you !!! Best of luck to ya . http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=409864&highlight=vacuum+lines Here is a link to the silicon tubing !!!

Awesome thats what I was looking for.

 

[gmbroy]

the four wheel drive is engaged by an electric motor not vacuum. you can also search the forum about this . there is a lot of very good info on this forum & the best people in the world . I think you will come to love this forum as a lot of us has .

 

[arco777]

A junkyard set of manual hubs will work, but you'll need the hardware that attaches them to the spindle assembly - that is different between hub styles.

 

[91explorer420]

So basically grab every thing from the yard car nuts and guts or do I need to order the Mile Marker hub nut conversion kit.

 

[arco777]

So basically grab every thing from the yard car nuts and guts or do I need to order the Mile Marker hub nut conversion kit.

Either way will work. If I recall correctly the auto hubs use a retainer nut that can simply be removed with a channel locks, but the manual hubs need a special socket with 4 points on it. You might want to pick up that socket before going to the junkyard as you'll be able to remove the hubs but not the hardware otherwise.