new to me old Explorer V6 EGR and trans issues

[cyclecamper]

New member here...with some expensive problems.

I picked up a 2005 Explorer XLT "as-is" and regret it already. Body etc. is creampuff, always garaged, has dealer-installed top package but never towed anything.

First issue is "service engine soon" EGR code, I don't have exact code right now, will get it .... I'm having a shop do the work. They are replacing the EGR and manually cleaning out all the intake passages, which is a good idea. The EGR lines are leaking so of course new lines. Maybe the DPFE sensor too. Freaking expensive!

Second issue I haven't even started to address. I don't know anything about transmissions in a Ford, especially not trucks. I assumed there would be a torque converter lock up but it behaves as if it doesn't have one. While commuting, when cruising (should be in overdrive) if I gently nudge the accelerator the revs rise as if the torque converter is not locked. Any advice appreciated, as I have not even begun to investigate this. On other vehicles this was usually a solenoid, and not too expensive. Time to drop the pan and replace the trans fluid filter, new fluid and clean things anyway. What's the nature of this beast?

 

[crispins]

New member here...with some expensive problems.

I picked up a 2005 Explorer XLT "as-is" and regret it already. Body etc. is creampuff, always garaged, has dealer-installed top package but never towed anything.

First issue is "service engine soon" EGR code, I don't have exact code right now, will get it .... I'm having a shop do the work. They are replacing the EGR and manually cleaning out all the intake passages, which is a good idea. The EGR lines are leaking so of course new lines. Maybe the DPFE sensor too. Freaking expensive!

DPFE sensor is around $30 and takes all of 5 mins to replace yourself, no need to pay someone to do that job.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1377671&parttype=5088&ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=bgufi6jj7ueuig3hi7umui3342

 

[2000StreetRod]

closed loop?

I don't know about the 3rd generation but on my 2000 Sport I seem to recall the PCM will not lock the torque converter unless the PCM is in closed loop. The shop doing your EGR work should be able to scan to determine if the PCM enters closed loop. My PCM enters closed loop about 20 seconds after engine start - just long enough for the O2 sensors to heat up.

 

[cyclecamper]

There are a number of things that have to work before the torques converter will lock up:

Must have not be in OVERDRIVE OFF mode
Must be going fast enough
Must be in 'closed loop' mode, using the O2 sensor(s)
Must be warm enough
Must have sufficient manifold vacuum and good sensor

What really confuses me is that usually when the torque converter lockup solenoid valve fails the converter stays locked and won't unlock, so it stalls the engine when stopped in gear. So this might be electrical, and I sure hope it's not a converter failure or something in the trans valve body. It shift great, doesn't have any symptoms of insufficient fluid pressure.

It really has the 'vibe' of an electrical problem, though I can't prove it.

 

[cyclecamper]

I had a good shop do a good job on the EGR problem, and that's OK now. They installed new lines, and the lines from Ford now came with an insulating sheath! The shop removed the intake manifold too, and cleaned out any possible tiny obstruction, and did a good job of putting all back together with new gaskets too. Cleaned the EGR sensor box, didn't need replacement. Better idle, no more 'service engine soon' light.

So now my remaining concern is that the torque converter lockup....DOESN'T!

 

[2000StreetRod]

worn TCC modulator bore?

According to The Transmission Shop in Texas one of the common problems seen is excess wear on the valve body, most often seen on the torque converter clutch (TCC) modulator bore. How many miles are on the odometer? Some members complain that the TCC is cycled between on and off too frequently and unnecessarily.

However, I suggest that you make sure the required torque converter application criteria is met before troubleshooting the valve body.

 

[cyclecamper]

AAMCO says it's the torque converter itself, not the valve body. But...they're just guessing as far as I can tell. It doesn't ever feel like it's even trying.

I was surprised the torque converter lockup solenoid valve isn't replaceable by itself.

 

[2000StreetRod]

DTCs?

Did AAMCO record any DTCs? The PCM should be able to detect TCC slip:
P0741 - TCC slippage detected
P0740, P0743 - TCC solenoid circuit failure during on-board diagnostic
P1740 - TCC solenoid inoperative
P1744 - TCC solenoid circuit error or stuck off

A scanner can record the engine speed, turbine shaft speed and TCC lock/unlock command. If there is slip when the TCC is commanded to lock then there is a problem. It could be a TCC solenoid electrical failure, the TCC solenoid bore could be worn, or the TCC could have failed.

The TCC solenoid is part of the sealed solenoid pack.

One member has repaired an electrical trace failure: 5r55W/S/N Solenoid pack repair instead of replace

 

[cyclecamper]

Or it could actually be the torque converter itself, like worn lock-up clutch.

(for P0741)

 

[2000StreetRod]

yes, as posted

Or it could actually be the torque converter itself, like worn lock-up clutch. (for P0741)

. . . A scanner can record the engine speed, turbine shaft speed and TCC lock/unlock command. If there is slip when the TCC is commanded to lock then there is a problem. It could be a TCC solenoid electrical failure, the TCC solenoid bore could be worn, or the TCC could have failed. . . .

Either the clutch disc or the piston that engages it can fail. I have not seen any clutch discs advertised for sale.

Normally, a complete torque converter assembly must be purchased.

 

[cyclecamper]

All diagnostic tests to clear the P1000 "testing incomplete" code are passed except the EVAP test. The gas tank has to be 1/2 to 3/4 and air temp >40 and < 100 F, and less than 8000 feet above sea level. So here, if it's too cold, it has to sit overnight (more than 8 hours) then warm up 10 minutes (get on closed-loop O2 sensors), drive steady & smooth (don't slosh gas) between 04 an 60 MPH for 10 minutes. ford says some vehicles may need to do this twice. So at this point, I'd might as well just bring it home, keep the tank between 1/2 and 3/4 and drive it a few days, then check whether the P1000 cleared or threw a code to make the dash light blink. Or if it gets cold it might just skip the EVAP test and clear the P1000 anyway. SO maybe I'll get an EVAP code in the spring LOL? But soon it should pass emissions here regardless.

So it's time to put in the MOOG lower ball joints (with grease fittings and lifetime warrantee) and slap in front brake pads while I'm in there. It's on original plugs and wires, so I'll do that too.