New to the Forum...Need Advice

[HAUS]

Hello to All

I have a 95 XLT with 170k

It has been a great truck, but after sitting for six months and not quite taken care of by my brother for the previous year it needs some love to get back to where it needs to be.

When I got it back it would barely even crank over. I replaced the spark plugs and wires and battery which gave it some new life and it actually started. I got some advice and from reading over this site changed the Fuel Filter and Fuel Pressure Regulator. Now I can get it started after cycling the key to ON about four times. When I do get it started it sounds fine, but when I turn it off it won't start again for at least an hour.

I have an OBD I reader and I ran the test which comes back 111 (Pass). Before I replaced any of the above it gave me the code relating to the ECT(Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor, but now it doesn't.

Any advice and direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[marragtop]

When it won't start, turn the key to the ON position and you should hear the fuel pump run for about 2 seconds. If you don't hear it, then you have a fuel delivery problem. Start by checking the fuel pump relay.

 

[HAUS]

Thanks

I know I hear the fuel pump when I cycle the key to ON an listen at the fuel filler, but haven't done it when it doesn't start again after running. I'll get it started after work and then turn it off and try that.

 

[robertoa1a]

As you are provably aware of, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank near the botom. If you ever replaced one then you know that there is provably some crud in the tank. After sitting for a long time the moving parts in the pump may have some build-up. I like to use some lukas fuel aditive and as part of a tune-up most swear by running seafoam through the vacume system. As cheep as theese things are, it doesn't hurt as a starting point.

 

[HAUS]

Alright, I got off work and the truck started after a few tries. I let it run for about 15 minutes and then turned it off. I waited about a minute and it started again...hasn't happened since I started working on it again...so I turned it off again and waited a bit longer and it started again!

After I turned if off the first time I cycled the key to ON and listened at the fuel filler and heard the fuel pump going for a couple seconds each time I tried. Sounds more like an electronic BUZZ. Is that the right sound?

On Sunday when I got it started I did buy a Fuel Additive/Injector Cleaner and put it in the tank because I can only imagine the build up possibilities in there.

In regards to the Fuel Pump Relay...when I have the hood open and am facing the fuse box from the driver side fender which relay is it. Is it the far row, 2nd relay to the right? Judging by pictures I have seen that is my guess.

Also, when its running it doesn't smell too good...kind of a fuel smell. When I replaced the fuel filter I checked the lines and didn't see any cracks or anything...but I may need to check again.

What do you think about all this and maybe replacing an O2 sensor.

Thanks

 

[robertoa1a]

I wouldn't go blowing cash without running diagnostic first. I think most Autto zone shops and the like do it for free. A smelly exhaust is un-burned fuel. diagnostic info is better and always cheeper than throwing parts at it. I have four o2 sensors costing $100 each. My problem was just a plug wire grounding on the steering column from ware. With problems as theese Ya' gotta' be part trouble shootin' geek!

There are a few of us that can giv you some good solid advice with a little more information. 10-4?

 

[HAUS]

I appreciate the advice.

I'm not sure if AutoZone and the others here in CA do diagnostics...if I remember right that's why I bought the OBD device in the first place, but I will definitely give them a call tomorrow...I definitely don't just want to keep throwing money at it for parts that won't solve the problem. At least the money I have spent so far has got it this far. I just want it to become reliable again!

When I get more info I'll run it by you to get your opinion.

 

[Sams01XplrSprt]

welcome haus

 

[HAUS]

update:

Been busy with other parts of life, but as far as my Explorer...

I've been able to get it started every time I try, but I do still have to prime the key to ON about four times each time. It'll just crank over for about 3 or 4 times then on the next try it will usually start. The thing I have noticed, not sure if it has any significance is that after about the 3rd crank the doors will lock and unlock by themselves. When it does this it will usually start the very next time I crank the key over...Any ideas about that one?

This past weekend I also flushed the radiator...put a treatment and replaced with new fluids...definitely needed it. Also, added some power steering fluid. I then took it for its first drive in over 6 months. It wasn't the smoothest drive and it definitely lagged. When I hit the gas all the way it took for ever to change gears. I didn't want to press my luck right away so I didn't hit the freeway, but I plan to this weekend.

Any ideas about the delayed starting or the unlocking/locking thing?

Thanks Everyone...Have a Good One

 

[robertoa1a]

The locks cycling Is part of the keyless entry/alarm system and how you program it for an fob. Can you measure fuel pressure off the rail before start-up? On the first try, if you let it crank, does it eventualy start?

 

[HAUS]

In regards to the first try if you mean if I just let it keep turning over my answer would be no. I haven't let it crank for probably more than 15 seconds at a time.

Please help me understand what you mean by fuel pressure at the rail.

Thanks

 

[robertoa1a]

Kind of a brain teaser. Try it with the gas cap off. This may cause a check engine light but it will go off later. Im guessing there might too much vacume in the tank after driving. An evac problem. Does it happen after you get gas?

 

[ranger7ltr]

Please help me understand what you mean by fuel pressure at the rail.

Thanks

I think he means checking the fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail when the fuel pump primes the fuel system..

But there is one item that a vehicle sitting for an extended period of time probably needs to address.. Gasolines are formulated from compounds and blends and some of them vaporize faster than others leaving an ever concentrating mess of varnish behind. And the fuel pump and its filter sock are right in the middle of that mess as well.. The sock is probably saturated with and submerged in that thicker goo if not clogged up by it..

Since the pump will apparently prime the fuel system the fuel sock is not completely clogged but I would consider changing the sock and cleaning the tank out...

As far as the cycling of the door locks.. If you turning the key on then off quickly within 10 seconds I THINK that starts the programmimg mode for a key fob in the vehicle you have....That is indicated by the door lock/unlock cycle...

My Explorer sat for a long while and the pump and filter showed it.. I let them soak in Berryman Chemtool B-12 and yanked the pump from the sender after a couple days... All varnish was gone and the replacement pump and sock were attached to the sending unit and reinserted them into the cleaned out tank...No more worries from the fuel system after either recleaning or replacement of the fuel injectors...

Good luck with your project.. Mine is running well with the original drivetrain and I am going to prep my V8 and harness for dropping into the 99 x in the futue....

 

[HAUS]

That definitely makes sense Ranger. I was just hoping not to have to drop the tank and replace or clean the fuel pump.

Before my bro just let it sit, the fuel pump was actually replaced in March and only ran for about a month or 2 after that. The 1 year warranty on it actually expires the beginning of next week so if I can I will have to try and do it this weekend to save some money.


Hopefully I can get that done.