Newbie needs help plz!!!!!

[Seanmarty93]

Hey guys! First of all I want to say I'm new to this forum, and I LOVE all the useful information on repairs and diagnosing problems. What a money saving tool this site is!!!!!!! I also want to ask the best way to search the site for different issues I am having with my explorer. It seems if i just use the "search" at the top of the screen, the results are nothing near what i typed in. (for example, I typed in "four wheel drive not engaging" and very few of the results and titles contain any of the words I typed in.) So i figured maybe there was a better way to search the site for things. If I could, I would like to list the things that I would like more info on and any nudge in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. So here it is "The List" of issues I am having with my 02 ford explorer 4x4 xlt:

1. The electrical system is going crazy.
Symptoms:
-door locks are constantly engaging as I drive
-warning buzzer or tone repeatedly sounds off
-interior lights flash off and on
- when the doors are locked using the fob, or power door lock button the alarm will sound regularly within five minutes. If you turn it off using the fob it will sound again within a few minutes, however once you put the car in drive all the doors lock automatically (as they should) so once you park the vehicle you can open the door, then lock manually and shut door and the alarm will not sound.
-the door ajar light does not show on the dash panel while any of these symptoms occur

2. The infamous whine in the rear end
Symptoms
-while driving 30mph or higher, the rear end whines. when you let off the gas,the whine doesn't stop completely, but gets noticeably quieter.
-Will putting new bearings on all three sides of the differential fix this, and if so is there a post that shows how to do this?

3. The four wheel drive buttons do not work at all.
-If I remember correctly the low would work, but it was a pain in the butt to get it back out of 4x4, but now, it doesnt work at all. We lived in the country for about 5 years and the creek next to our house would flash flood several times a year. We would have to drive through water that would come right to the bottom of the door jambs from time to time for a distance of about 100 yds. I'm wondering if this may have aided in the demise of the four wheel drive. If so, what would it be. If not, whats the best way to go about diagnosing the problem without randomly replacing parts?

Thanks guys! Any advise is GREATLY appreciated!

Sean

 

[Exproblems]

1. The electrical system is going crazy.
Symptoms:
-door locks are constantly engaging as I drive
-warning buzzer or tone repeatedly sounds off
-interior lights flash off and on>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Check for broken wires in the rubber boot in your drivers door jam. There are posts in here on how to check for broken wires there.
-
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>2. The infamous whine in the rear end
Symptoms
-while driving 30mph or higher, the rear end whines. when you let off the gas,the whine doesn't stop completely, but gets noticeably quieter.
-Will putting new bearings on all three sides of the differential fix this, and if so is there a post that shows how to do this?>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Don't know if new bearings will help you here, but some people have switched to Royal Purple synthetic gear oil for the rear diff and have stated it quieted down the rear end whine. The rear end whine seems to be more common in 02 Explorers.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>3. The four wheel drive buttons do not work at all.
-If I remember correctly the low would work, but it was a pain in the butt to get it back out of 4x4, but now, it doesnt work at all.Sean>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I've read some posts with same problem as yours here and I think the problem may be in the "4x4 control module". On your 02, it is located on the evaporator housing infront of the blower motor behind your glove box. Update, check page 2 of the Sticky Threads in the "Stock 2002-2005 Explorer" section under "2002 4x4 Problems". There are 9 pages of posts under this topic.
A guy named "BigRondo" in here can help you with number #1 and #3 of your problems. He had both issues with his ex. If he see's your post here, I'm sure he'll help you out.
When you go to use the search box at the top of the forum, adjust your wording a bit and always include the year, engine size and make of the vehicle you are searching problems for. You can also check the "Sticky" posts(top half of forum main page) for the most common repair tips and see if one of them has the info you are looking for help with.

 

[BigRondo]

A guy named "BigRondo" in here can help you with number #1 and #3 of your problems. He had both issues with his ex. If he see's your post here, I'm sure he'll help you out.

You know me too well my friend!


Welcome aboard Seanmarty93!!

Here is some info to get you moving in the right direction.

#1: I had similar electrical issues with my 02 xlt. The dome lights would stay on until the battery saver feature turned them off, the accessory delay wasn't working, the driver side puddle light didn't work, the keypad on the door would set off the alarm when I pressed it, the door ajar light would flash and beep at highway speeds, the radio would shut off as soon as I turned the key off, the delayed accessories didn't work, etc. Most recently all 4 windows stopped working.

A lot of electrical issues can be traced back to broken/damaged wire(s) in the boot between the body and the driver's door. I found 2 broken wires and repaired them. The thin black ground wire was broken and after repairing it all was back to normal. When the windows stopped working, I repaired the thick black ground wire and the windows now work like a champ.

Could also be related to the door ajar switch.

Here is the thread for removing the door panel: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=303524

Here is a great thread for checking/replacing the door ajar switch, thanks to borland for the awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249253

That is a great write up.

On a side note, before going through a complete replacement of the switch, you can spray WD40 into the door latch opening on each door, as these become stuck sometimes....and this can alleviate the issue.

This worked for me, after going for more than a year of the "door ajar" light coming on occasionally...mainly after a car wash, high humidity, or rain....making me unable to lock/arm the vehicle from the door keypad and keeping the dome lights on. Worth a try....it worked for me

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wires, thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081

Be sure to take your time when looking for broken/damaged wire(s). Check all the wires for breaks/damage. When you think you're done looking, look again, and again, and again. A bright flashlight can be very helpful.

#3: I had similar issues with my 4x4 when I bought my Ex. The 4x4 lights were flashing on the dash, It would not go into 4x4 High, it would go into 4x4 Low; but the front wheels were not engaged.

I replaced the 4x4 Control Module & the switch with no luck. It ended up being a bad ground wire on the Transfer Case Shift Motor. Others have had the same problem. Repairing the bad ground wire has the 4x4 working like a charm. I recommend crawling under the Ex and checking for a bad ground wire on the transfer case before you start throwing parts at it like i did.

Here are some threads pertaining to the 4x4:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272887

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163694

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271868

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249589

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290724

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270006

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292623

Hope this helps out. :biggthump

 

[Seanmarty93]

Thank you Fellas! Your advice and information is priceless. I'll let you know what I find out.

 

[BigRondo]

Thank you Fellas! Your advice and information is priceless. I'll let you know what I find out.

Good luck & be sure to keep us posted.

 

[Exproblems]

You know me too well my friend! >>>>>>>>>>>>>

Yep! Hey good luck to your Pats tomorrow in the big game, but in all honesty, I am rooting for the Giants. I have too! Besides, Brady just dissed Buffalo hotels in the media. I guess we just don't have enough 5 star hotel luxury suites for the ultra rich, pampered pretty boy! He's a damn fine QB, but he sure does complain alot, especially to the refs. Enjoy the game!

 

[BigRondo]

You know me too well my friend! >>>>>>>>>>>>>

Yep! Hey good luck to your Pats tomorrow in the big game, but in all honesty, I am rooting for the Giants. I have too! Besides, Brady just dissed Buffalo hotels in the media. I guess we just don't have enough 5 star hotel luxury suites for the ultra rich, pampered pretty boy! He's a damn fine QB, but he sure does complain alot, especially to the refs. Enjoy the game!

Thanks. I figured you'd be rooting for the Giants. :

 

[Wills05xlt4x4]

Thanks. I figured you'd be rooting for the Giants. :

As much as I hate both teams being a Dallas fan I'm going to have to hope the pats win.....
Eli and tom both cry too much...

 

[BigRondo]

As much as I hate both teams being a Dallas fan I'm going to have to hope the pats win.....
Eli and tom both cry too much...

So you are a Pats fan. Nice. :

 

[Exproblems]

[

>>>>>>>>>>As much as I hate both teams being a Dallas fan>>>>>>>>>>>>

Dallas is even worse! I hate them more because I'm sick of seeing owner Jerry Jones face on the sidelines at every game. Owners should stay in the their box suites out of sight and out of mind. People hate Dallas because of him.

>>>>>>>>>Eli and tom both cry too much..>>>>>>>>>>>>

Brady crys to the refs way more than Eli does and gets the refs calls to go his way, but coach Coughlin is a whack job running and cursing his way up and down the sidelines during a game. He yells more than an old man who got a bad sandwhich from a deli.

 

[Exproblems]

Thanks. I figured you'd be rooting for the Giants. :

>>>>>>>>>>

I can't root for an arch enemy, divisional foe of my Bills and I do live in New York State, so it was an easy choice even though I am not a fan of the Giants either. The Giants earned their way thru the playoffs this year to get to the Superbowl playing good teams away and the Pats kind of skated their way into the Superbowl with the Broncos and Baltimore at home. Baltimore should have won that game.

 

[Seanmarty93]

Bigrondo,
I reviewed some of your posts that you highlighted, I like the blend door write up. I failed to mention that I am having a problem with my vents. I thought the unit that controled the vent selection (floor, vent, defrost) was called the blend door, however after reading your post, I see now what the blend door is, and what its purpose is. I did read several other posts that have had a problem with the vent selection working properly. I removed my glove box and to my suprise, my actuators are working fine and I have no broken plastic arms. When I move the dial to choose vents, defrost or floor, the arms seem to be moving to the different positions properly, but the vents are stuck on defrost. I have checked for vaccum with no sucess. I could be wrong, but i assume the vaccum lines are not the problem since the actuators are moving properly. My wife figured out that if you hit the brakes hard and turn the dial from the 12 o"clock position to the vents it will in fact blow out the vents for awhile until you hit a bump or with no signs as to why, the air will blow out of the defrost vents again. Any suggestions?

 

[Exproblems]

When I move the dial to choose vents, defrost or floor, the arms seem to be moving to the different positions properly, but the vents are stuck on defrost. I have checked for vaccum with no sucess. I could be wrong, but i assume the vaccum lines are not the problem since the actuators are moving properly. My wife figured out that if you hit the brakes hard and turn the dial from the 12 o"clock position to the vents it will in fact blow out the vents for awhile until you hit a bump or with no signs as to why, the air will blow out of the defrost vents again. Any suggestions?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Your "air recirculation door" has probably fallen off it's hinge points and is blocking or diverting your dashboard, blower air flow to your vents. The air recirc door is located behind your glove box, inside the plastic housing that sits at the top of the blower fan motor. The very top housing. I removed mine and it restored great air flow to my vents, but you will lose the Max AC feature to your AC unit, but you will still have AC, just not as frosty cold. It's a huge job to replace one and around $1100 at the dealership. It is a 30 min to one hour job to remove it. Most of your time will be spent trying to grab on to the door panel and pull it out thru the narrow opening in the air box. Below is a link to a post from "Curtis" Post #1, on how to remove it, but disregard the part where it states to remove the blower motor. No need to remove the blower motor, just the 4 screws(2 on left and 2 on right) to the air box, then split it open carefully and look for the air recirc panel laying on it's side at the bottom of the air box. Pull it out thru the right side of the air box. That side opens farther than the left side does. If you see it there on it's side, that is your dash vent problem. It doesn't belong there. The air recirc door panel is approx 5 in high by 11 in long. Good Luck!

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284042

 

[Seanmarty93]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Your "air recirculation door" has probably fallen off it's hinge points and is blocking or diverting your dashboard, blower air flow to your vents.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284042

Thanks Exproblems for the suggestion. I finally have some time today to check into the above mentioned problems. I was wondering is there a way to check that the door is actually broken before I tear apart the box that contains it? You mentioned that the broken door would divert air to my vents, however my problem is just the opposite, it is blowing out of the dash, not the vents, unless I turn the vent selector knob to the off position and as I come to a stop, press hard on the brakes, and turn the knob to vent at the exact same time, then the air will come out of the vents for a short period of time. That being said, could the problem still be the air circulation door being broken? Thanks again for your help.

 

[Seanmarty93]

Well I'm 0-for-1 so far. checked the wiring in the drivers door boot hoping to find a broken wire to fix. I first checked the wiring inside the door panel, then slid the boot inside the door panel as far as I could in order to easily see the rest of the wires in the door panel and the remainder of the bundle as it passes through where the boot is and enters the vehicle and found no breaks. Any other suggestions?

 

[Exproblems]

. I was wondering is there a way to check that the door is actually broken before I tear apart the box that contains it?>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

None that I know of other than splitting open the air recirculation box. That is the easiest way of checking it I know of. Removing the 4 screws to the air recirc box is the easy part, then split open the box at the middle seam line and stick your fingers inside the box and downward an inch or two and feel for the air recic door panel moving around when your finger hits it. If it is laying on it's side in there, it has broken off and is laying on top of the blower air chute to the dash vents. When I did mine, as soon as I reached inside the box I could feel it move around and then I saw part of it and knew that was my problem as others had described to me. Use a flat head screwdriver to split open the box and possibly needle nose pliers to grab on to the air recirc door if this is your problem. Use whatever works for you.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>You mentioned that the broken door would divert air to my vents, however my problem is just the opposite, it is blowing out of the dash, not the vents, unless I turn the vent selector knob to the off position and as I come to a stop, press hard on the brakes, and turn the knob to vent at the exact same time, then the air will come out of the vents for a short period of time. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

A broken air recirc door doesn't block all of the air flow to your dash vents, but it does weaken the air flow. Some vents may get what seems like normal air flow from the blower, others won't. The door panel isn't big enough to totally block all of the air flow from the box it is laying in. The inner box area is larger than the door panel itself. Some air gets around it and out to your vents. From your description of the vents work sometimes after braking hard, says to me the door panel is sliding around in the air box and when it moves to a certain position, you get some air flow from that vent. When you set the blower fan speed on high #4, do you get full blower air flow thru all of the vents or does it seem weakened at all? When my air recirc door failed, I lost most of my air flow to the defroster vent for the windshield, but that has been restored since I removed it. All of my vents seem to have great air flow now. Some of us get some heat/air flow out of the drivers footwell vent while set to windshield defroster, but no one has been able to figure out why that is happening so far. It doesn't bother me. I was more concerned with restoring full blower air flow to the defroster vents.

>>>>>>>>>That being said, could the problem still be the air circulation door being broken? Thanks again for your help.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I think so or you could have a vacuum line that has popped off of your dash vent control switch behind the dashboard, but that doesn't explain why it starts working when you brake hard. If a vacuum line is off, it's off. Braking hard wouldn't reconnect it. BTW, your welcome and the "Blend Door" is a door panel that slides back and forth between the hot and cold temperature sides of the interior climate control system.

 

[Seanmarty93]

Thanks exproblems, getting ready to tackle that job now. I'll let ya know what I find.

 

[Exproblems]

Well I'm 0-for-1 so far. checked the wiring in the drivers door boot hoping to find a broken wire to fix. I first checked the wiring inside the door panel, then slid the boot inside the door panel as far as I could in order to easily see the rest of the wires in the door panel and the remainder of the bundle as it passes through where the boot is and enters the vehicle and found no breaks. Any other suggestions?

>>>>>>>>>>

On the broken wire issue, I have no other suggestions other than did you try and lurbicate the door latch real good with WD-40? Spray all of the moving parts in there good and see what happens. Maybe "BigRondo" can give you some other suggestions, but he might be in a grumpy mood today, his Pats lost in the Superbowl yesterday and he could be in mourning today! My condolences BR!

 

[Seanmarty93]

OK guys, now I'm more puzzled than ever. Exproblems, I put my fingers in the "grate" or vent holes on the top of the box that has the door that can fall blocking air. I can feel the door, and it is in fact still intact or so it feels to me. The door is sitting vertical, and not laying flat, and I can push on it with my fingers and it has a smooth rocking motion back and forth as if it is still hinged. HOWEVER, I did check out the plastic arms that move by the vacuum operated actuators again. The upper one is not broken where the metal attaches to the plastic arm, but I did notice that the black plastic arm has an unusual wobble to it. So I grabbed it and shook it and it appears there is indeed a break, however it is inside the box that the black plastic arm is attached to. (I hope that makes sense, i wish i had a way to post a video of it) So now it appears I have located my problem, but, how in the hell do I replace whatever it is on the other end of the black plastic arm that is inside the black plastic box that is the root of my problem????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Does anyone know of a diagram that shows the breakdown of these parts. The exploded view on the link Exproblems gave me shows the blower motor and surrounding parts, but not the two vacuum operated metal arms actuator arms, the black plastic arms that they attach to or what the other end of those arms look like inside the vent box. AND.........HOW DOES THIS JUST BREAK? Are they making this stuff out of toothpick paper and glue???!!!!!! I can only Imagine what I have to do to fix this. I may have to start a beer fund to get me through this project!!! LOL!

 

[Exproblems]

I put my fingers in the "grate" or vent holes on the top of the box that has the door that can fall blocking air. I can feel the door, and it is in fact still intact or so it feels to me. The door is sitting vertical, and not laying flat, and I can push on it with my fingers and it has a smooth rocking motion back and forth as if it is still hinged. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Did you ever remove the 4 screws and open up the air box for the air recirc door? I would have done that just to be sure. You can't really see anything thru those plastic grates at the top, least I couldn't.

>>>>>>>>>>>>HOWEVER, I did check out the plastic arms that move by the vacuum operated actuators again. The upper one is not broken where the metal attaches to the plastic arm, but I did notice that the black plastic arm has an unusual wobble to it. So I grabbed it and shook it and it appears there is indeed a break, however it is inside the box that the black plastic arm is attached to.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Is this plastic arm that appears to be broken connect into the black air recirc door box or some where else back there? What black box is it connected to? There is an actuator motor w/armature that rotates the air recirc door back and forth. As far as I know, if this is your problem, broken air recirc actuator arm, that shouldn't cause an air flow problem to your vents. What it would do is cause problems with the MAX AC feature. The air recirc door opens or closes to allow outside air to mix with your AC unit across the evaporator to give you frosty cold AC. With the door not working right because of a bad actuator, your MAX AC temp would be affected because the door can't rotate back and forth or opened to outside air or closed. When the door panel falls down into the bottom of the box, it blocks air flow to the dash vents.

>>>>>>>>> (I hope that makes sense, i wish i had a way to post a video of it) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

It makes sense to me, but a photo of the black box this broken actuator is connected to might be more helpful. If you know how to do this, try and post up a photo of it.

>>>>>>>So now it appears I have located my problem, but, how in the hell do I replace whatever it is on the other end of the black plastic arm that is inside the black plastic box that is the root of my problem????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I've never had to repair this type of a problem, other than the blend door actuator. Similar, but different animal. I would say you need a new "air recirc door actuator", but how to R&R one, I'm not sure. To replace a air recirc door itself from the black plastic housing it sits in, involves unbolting the entire dashboard, (11 nuts or so) and disconnecting electrical harnesses, then swing out the passenger side of the dashboard like it is on a hinge to get at everything behind that side of the dash. Ford dealerships want around $1100 to do the air recirc door panel repair. The actuator may be an easier repair to do if it just bolts up to the black plastic housing. BigRondo may have the schematic for that area of the vehicle, I'm not sure if he does.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>> parts, but not the two vacuum operated metal arms actuator arms, the black plastic arms that they attach to or what the other end of those arms look like inside the vent box.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

If you can see where it is broken at or both ends of the break, you may be able to drill a hole in both ends and connect them up again with a zip tie. I know I read in here where some people repaired some of those actuator arms behind the dash doing it this way.

>>>>>>>>>>>AND.........HOW DOES THIS JUST BREAK? Are they making this stuff out of toothpick paper and glue???!!!!!!>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Basically, Ford had it's head up it's a$$ when they designed this $hit this way or they built this crap this way on purpose, to keep us coming back to them for repairs or parts. Now you know why Ford never needed a bailout from the Gov't, they knew we'd be back spending tons of money for replacement parts soon.