No crank, no click no start.

[climani1]

I've had my 04 Explorer for about 6 months without issue. A couple weeks ago while yard saleing I stopped, turned it off, got back in turned the key and no crank, no click. I have all the dash lights, windows, radio, everything.

Checked all of the fuses, checked I have power at the starter, if I jump the starter terminals it cranks, battery is fine. I replaced the starter and same thing. Connections look good as far as I can tell.

I'm starting to think it's in the cables, particularly the negative cable. When I peel back the insulation I do see corrosion in the cable. I know early 90's explorers had corrosion issues. Could the cable be the issue? Maybe the ignition switch?

 

[Number4]

Been a few folks having issues with the security system. But if the negative cable has visible corrosion, I'd do that first.

 

[climani1]

I've read about the Security System, but I'm not getting the flashing security light in the dash and I've tried both keys. I was hoping that was the issue.

 

[vipersinu2]

1st what kind of engine do you have and how many miles? Try a test light or volt meter on the small wire at the starter and see if you have 12volts there. Do u have a second key you can try. There is a chip in the key that could be bad.

Edit : I missed the post u had a 2nd key.

 

[pet575]

I've internally rotted cables replaced on mine. No clue from looking at them that there was corrosion.

 

[cross6]

Use a voltage drop test to check your grounds. Measure voltage potential from negative terminal of battery and ground on engine.

http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/voltage-drop-test.html

 

[climani1]

So far I did a drop test on the positive, it had a .1 drop, that should be fine. I'm still trying to figure out how to test the negative with only myself and my wife.

I think I've found the most in depth instructions for doing a voltage test.

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=22321.0

EDIT:
Just tested the negative, .1 drop as well..

 

[cross6]

Sounds good. Which engine?

 

[climani1]

Sorry, its the v6.

Yesterday I took another look at the security system and it is acting like a pats issue, fast blinking security light.

Today I had a locksmith try to reprogram the keys with no luck. Now its looking like there maybe a bad cluster on the pcm.

 

[cross6]

Sorry, its the v6.

Yesterday I took another look at the security system and it is acting like a pats issue, fast blinking security light.

Today I had a locksmith try to reprogram the keys with no luck. Now its looking like there maybe a bad cluster on the pcm.

Here's the ford no star no crank procedure:

 

[vipersinu2]

YouTube pats bypass for ford.

 

[climani1]

I looked at 3 or 4 pats bypass videos, it looks like you have to at least have one working transponder key. Unfortunately neither of my keys work.

 

[climani1]

@ cross6, thanks for that, I'll be giving that a run through on the next few days.

 

[vipersinu2]

Does direct electronics make a pats bypass. They are used for viper alarm starters. Thought they were like 40 bucks

 

[cross6]

@ cross6, thanks for that, I'll be giving that a run through on the next few days.

No prob, let me know if you find something and need the next steps.

Does direct electronics make a pats bypass. They are used for viper alarm starters. Thought they were like 40 bucks

I think A11 in the pinpoint test above is a bypass, right?

 

[fordhead!]

I don't know if it's too late, or if somebody has already answered your question. I had this same problem on my car.
It turned out to be the "range sensor". It is the little switch in the trasmission that doesn't let your engine start because the car is not in "P" (park). The switch had become loose and they just had to plug it back in. Of course there was no way for me to figure it out myself.

Hope I helped!

 

[climani1]

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

I wound up taking it to the local dealer, my wife was tired of me tinkering with it.

Turned out the PATS system needed reprogrammed. I had one factory and one after market key. They told me the after market key went bad causing my problem. A freshly cut factory key and 100 bucks later they reprogrammed the system and she runs again! FYI for anyone having these issues you must have two working transponder keys to program the PATS system.

Thanks for the input on this from everyone that chimed in.