No fuel Pressure. Where do I go from here?

[SEXPLORER01]

I recently checked the fuel pressure at the rail and it was at 0 with the key to the on position. I tried turning it on and off but the gauge doesn't move even though I hear the pump before I try to start it.

Is there a fuel pressure regulator and where is it located? Also, the fuel filter has been recently replaced.

2001 xls

 

[2000StreetRod]

last thing?

Has it run since you replaced the fuel filter?

Did you make any changes just before the fuel pressure problem?

The fuel pump only runs for a few seconds if you don't start the engine.

Have you checked the inertia switch on the passenger side floor pan?

 

[SEXPLORER01]

So i rechecked the fuel pressure with the gauge i rented at auto-zone. Dont know what happened last night. Maybe I didnt screw the fitting all the way. But now my fuel pressure goes all the way up to 60-65psi when turning it on and off a couple of times. is that where its supposed to be at? its seems too high and i think someone said a bad FPR would do that?

Where is the FPR located on my XLS. I see something similar on next to the firewall on the fuel line itself. My local autoparts store is having a hard time finding the FPR for my car.

thanks for your help!

 

[2000StreetRod]

pressure is good

According to my Haynes manual 65 psi is the max and after 5 minutes with ignition off fuel pressure should be 30 to 65 psi. I wouldn't buy a fuel pressure regulator until I found something to indicate its bad which you haven't. You never described any symptoms. You just said you had zero fuel pressure.

What engine do you have?

I assume the problem is that the engine cranks but doesn't start. If so, do you have one of those inexpensive ignition testers?

Do you have an OBD code reader? If so, what codes are present? If not, can you borrow one?

 

[Opera House]

I never make a fuel pressure measurement without removing the schraeder valve. Mostly this is because I have a home made setup made from a bike pump. If that valve doesn't get pushed fully open, it is easily pushed closed by fuel pressure.

 

[SEXPLORER01]

yes it cranks and doesnt start

scanned it, no codes.

Replaced the coil and spark plugs and nothing. I do see sparks when I pulled one of the wires at the coil and tried to start it.

No theft warning light problems. Turns off in the "on" position

The pressure goes all the way up to 60psi when I switch it on and off.

 

[2000StreetRod]

What did the plugs look like?

Did you notice anything unusual about the spark plugs when you pulled them? Did they all look the same as far as burning and fouling?

Did you disconnect the battery at any time between when it quit running and when you read the DTCs? If so, they were erased.

So you're confident that you have spark and you know that you have fuel pressure. Make sure that the plug wires are not mixed up and are connected well. Its unlikely that more than one injector would fail at the same time. PATS disables the injectors when the chip is bad or incorrect on the ignition key but if the theft light goes out then I doubt that its PATS. I'll try my bad key to see what happens to be sure. To eliminate any possibility that your problem is the injectors you can disconnect the main intake hose at the throttle body, spray starter fluid into the intake manifold, quickly put the main intake hose back and try to start the engine. The engine should run on the starter fluid for a second or so if the problem was no fuel from the injectors.

I suggest that you check the TPS output voltage at closed throttle, ignition On, engine Off. It should be about 1.0 volts. If that's Ok then clean the IAC valve, disconnect the MAF sensor and try to start it. The PCM will detect the MAF sensor is disconnected and revert to preset start conditions. If it starts, then shut the engine off and clean the MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Pats

I confirmed what PATS does with a good key vs bad key.

Good key:
THEFT illuminates briefly every few seconds when key is out or ignition is Off
THEFT illuminates continuously for a few seconds when key first turned to ignition On, then THEFT no longer illuminates.

Bad key:
THEFT illuminates briefly every few seconds when key is out or ignition is Off
THEFT rapidly blinks when key first turned to ignition On and continues to do so

You never said what engine you have.

 

[SEXPLORER01]

Wow thanks for keeping up with my post. I really appreciate you trying to help me out!!


I sprayed starter fluid per directions on the bottle..about three seconds. Tried to start it but no go..just cranks.

The theft warning light goes out in the "on" position. However, its still flashing with no key and doors are locked....cant remember if its supposed to do that.

I checked the TPS and gray/white to white/gray? its 3.8 and fluctuates down to .4 volts or so. and the gray/white to gray/red is 5 volts

Unhooked the MAF and still the same. Also, i took the AIC off the intake and accidentally started the car for a second. It actually seemed like it was about to start up but then died. So I tried to clean it and still nothing. I then tried to start it up without the AIC plug on and same ol same ol...not even "a little start" It seems like there may be too much fuel?

I'll check the spark plugs tomorrow.

Thanks for everything!

Its a 4.0 V6 ..almost forgot that

 

[2000StreetRod]

Retest the TPS

There's a problem with the voltage readings you obtained for the TPS. The brown/white wire is the reference voltage from the PCM. The gray/red wire the common sensor return (all of the sensor returns are tied together instead of being grounded). The gray/white is the wiper on the TPS (potentiometer). With the connector attached to the TPS backprobe the brown/white and the gray/red. Measure the voltage with the ignition On and the engine Off. It should be about 5.0 volts. If its not, then disconnect the connector to the TPS and check again. Then (with TPS connected) backprobe the gray/white and the gray/red. With the ignition On, engine Off and throttle closed (idle) the voltage should be about 1.0 volts. As the throttle plate is rotated from closed to wide open the voltage should smoothly increase to a maximum near 5.0 volts. If the readings are significantly different then the TPS is bad.

If the TPS readings are all good, then here's something to try. Turn on the ignition, press the accelerator all the way to the floor and hold it, then crank the starter. I can't remember right now why this works (forces the PCM to adjust something) but it does.

The PATS sounds like its normal.

 

[SEXPLORER01]

Just checked it out and the TPS is fine. Exactly how you said it was supposed to be. I did however managed to start it up this morning when it was freezing outside. but it was stumbling and had a very rich smell coming from the exhaust pipe. Lots of black stuff was dripping from the tail pipe also. I pulled one of my spark plugs and it was wet as if lots of fuel was drenched on it...havent pulled the rest. So it kind of makes sense when i took the AIC off and tried to crank the engine, it was about to start the other day but died immediately. And how I sprayed starter fluid in the intake and still wouldnt start...just cranked.

So what does this narrow down to? injectors/regulator?