Assuming they both have the same set-up (both EATC or both manual HVAC), then the plugs should be the same for the electrical harness. Will require complete removal of the dash to get the plenum box out. Along with the plenum will have to unhook the heater hoses and AC lines. Recommend you find out what is causing the no-heat situation before going this deep.
Steps:
With engine cold, open the radiator cap and overflow caps to check the radiator and overflow are both filled correctly. If not, top off and test for heat.
With engine warmed up and running, open hood and check if the heater hoses are 1) both hot 2) about same temp 3) connected to the heater core at the firewall. If any one of these is a no, then fix that issue.
(How could
#3 exist you ask - common short term fix for leaking heater core during the summer since replacement can only be done with dash removal which is a 6 to 8 hour job and costs $1000 at most garages! If thats your issue, sorry to say but is only way to address. I've done it, as have others on the forum. There are very good write-ups and videos to help you. Just be patient and expect to put in a full day. Oh yeah, part costs all of $25)
If all answers to 1, 2, and 3 are yes, then issue is inside the vehicle and either a blend door or door control module issue. Proper service method is dash removal, there are quick and easy short cuts. Would not bother to try to replace the entire plenum (air box). Test the door control module first. They can be carefully pried off the corner posts so you dont have to unbolt it. If it doesnt work, swap it with the one from your donor. Once it works, check the door itself. If broken, the bottom cut method can be done in 30 minute and provide a good permanent repair. The door is available at O'Reilly's auto parts brand new for $12 so would not bother to pull from a donor since the old ones are almost always cracked.
BTW - looks like you are just down the road from me. Small world aint it.
