No heat, wacked out temp?

[EB Bauer]

I wasn't sure weather or not to put this in the Ranger section or here. I figured it would get more eyes here. My 1997 Ranger has some weird things goig on with it. When I am driveing down the road the temp guage reads as hot as can be. When I am at idle the thing reads cold as hell. Now the odd part about it is that since this started happening my heater doesn't work. I have checked all the fluids and everything looks fine. My heater core doesn't seem to be leaking. You think I may need to replace the thermostat? Possible plug somewhere in the coolant system? Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Houston at NCSU]

If your thermostat is shot, then i think it wont circulate any coolant to the heater core, then you wouldnt have heat and it would run hotter than usual. Need someone elses take on this though, im kinda foggy in the thermostat department. Good luck, and dont overheat your engine.

 

[kps36]

I also have a Ranger, has the same problems as my Sploder had. Gauge couldn't get off C. New Tstat fixed that. I have the same prob now w/the Ranger. I will change out the Tstat this w/e and if that doesn't fix it there is spoda be a temp gauge sending unit/sensor that from what I have gathered from the Ranger crew is VERY suspect on my 4cyl. But I would do the Thermostat first, 195 degree, if that doesn't fix it, then the gauge sending unit. Based on what you have said, you should follow the same process. I don't have the 'strange' gauge symptoms you have, so you may have to switch out the gauge sending unit also, but wait awahile after doing the Tstat to verify.

 

[EB Bauer]

Thanks for the help guys. This is a really dumb question but I have no idea where to even begine to look for the tstat. Can any of you point me in the right direction?

 

[kps36]

you didn't say which engine you have in your Ranger. Be that as it may, find the UPPER radiator hose (the bigger @2" hose on the upper part of your radiator). Follow that hose towards the engine. It will connect onto a metal housing attached with 2(4cyl) or 3(V6) bolts to the engine block. After draining the radiator while COOL, take this housing off and pay special attention to the way the thermostat is in there (the 'umbrella' looking part is facing AWAY/OUTWARD from the engine. If you have a V6 (3 or 4L) make SURE you get a new rubber O-Ring with the thermostat. If your ranger is like my 2.3L 4cyl you need a paper gasket.
About the temp sensor...on the V6 it is right there on top near the housing of the Tstat with 2 wires coming out of it (i.e. real easy to get to and change if need be..see earlier post) on the 4cyl not so easy to even find (hint, I haven't found mine yet, but don't think I need too)
Anyway your best bet is to get a Haynes Manual for your ride and study it on the coolant draining procedures and changing the thermostat. Based on your description you might need a thermostat and sensor (also see earlier post).
BTW, the 2 wires coming out of the sensor, one goes to the Computer and one goes to the gauge. That's why in my Sploder, after changing the Tstat, I also picked up 2-3mpg.
Good Luck.
:smoke:

 

[baexploder]

i have the same problem with my 92 e.b.....temp gauge reads C then jumps between the m a of "normal" on the gauge and then down again.so i will be replacing the tstat. good luck.....

 

[EB Bauer]

Once again, thanks for the help. I have the 4cyl. engine so hopefully it won't be to hard. I got the wife complaining cause her heater doesn't work since this has happend. SO I am hopeing that will fix it too. Thanks again. If anyone has any other info I should know before I get down on this please let me know.

 

[kps36]

Changing the Tstat will definetly fix the heat problem. What it may not solve is the gauge problem. But after about a week or so, if the gauge still acts funky, then you will probably need to change out the sensor also.
The Tstat on your 4cyl won't be as easy as you may think. the lower bolt is extremely hard to get to. A suggestion I was given, but not yet tried, is the have a shallow 10mm socket with a 3" extension and have to 'feel' it on the bolt. Makes sense, but haven't tried it.
Also, and this is important as it may solve your sensor problem along with the heat, is to disconnect your -(negative) battery cable while you are changing out the Tstat.
You really need to get a Haynes, cause on your Ranger, if you haven't already, get ready to replace your IAC (Idle Air Control sensor). These are VERY suspect on the 4cyl, but Ford replacement is MUCH better quality. It's an easy fix, just do it at the FIRST sign of trouble (won't start and hold, won't idle....stalls.)
good luck.

 

[EB Bauer]

Thanks so much. This looks like something I can definitly do. The bolt sounds just as hard to get to as the passenger side spark plug near the firewall on my explorer. I are these sensors expensive? I mean when I replaced the tstat on my old truck it was pretty cheap. What am I looking at for the sensors?

 

[Triton46]

The one for the EEC DY-681 is $18 at carparts and the one for the guage is like $6. I have the part# for that at home.

 

[kps36]

Triton, I haven't been bitten by the funky gauge syndrome, like I said just changing out the stat solved my problems and mpg. but on my OHV V6 there only appears to be one sensor w/2 wires. I traced one of these back to the control module, and the other got lost in space, I assumed it went to the gauge. Are there 2 separate sensors/sending units?. I will check my Haynes.
EB Bauer, yeah if you both a Sploder and Ranger, you know what I mean. PATIENCE ! is the key word here. OH, do you have the dual-plug 4cyl ?, changing THOSE plugs and wires makes changing the Spolder plugs seem like a walk in the park.