OHV 4.0 intake stud bolts...source?

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Hi guys. I looked on Fordpartsfast and a few other
websites with no luck. Since I'm replacing the intake
gaskets soon, thought I'd replace the bolts while
I'm in there since they're prone to breaking.

Anyone know a part number or source for these?

Thanks,
ROE

 

[Dono]

I picked mine up from ford fast parts. I don't know the part number though. It was a couple of years ago though.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Thanks for the reply Dono. I've tried them and can't
get anything to show up in the search. Maybe I'm
not calling it by the right name...?
What exactly are these bolts called anyway?

 

[Dono]

Found what you need:
here's a c/p from my head replacement thread:
Fuel stud rail bolts x 6 (I broke one previously) STUD M8X33M8X45 EXT http://www.trademotion.com (40.55)

 

[Dono]

not sure what that trademotion link was about. I cant find where I purchased the part. The part number is good though. maybe try that part number at fordfastparts on-line

I don't see the studs anywhere.
Do you have a auto graveyard near you?
I bet the studs are discontinued by now.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Thanks Dono; I can't find them either.
After 12 years, I'll bet they're indeed discontinued.

I'll have to be real careful and not break one.

Thanks again for your trouble.

 

[mojoe]

I was told by the local stealership that they were discontinued but I was able to spec. some out at an Ace hardware that worked out fine. Careful not to overtighten.

 

[rickybobby]

I grabbed a spare set from the JY before i started my intake job, glad i did, broke 2 of them

 

[kindred4x]

I needed one, but ford said they only sold bags of six.

W702312-S309M

 

[Maniak]

If you still need one or so of these I may have them in my box o parts leftover from when I build 1 motor from 2. Let me know and I can dig through the box.

~Mark

 

[Dono]

bit of a hyjak here, but make sure you do a build thread Maniak! Whether its from mild to wild, were all still interested.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Kindred4X, by using your part number, I was able
to order 6 studs from Fordpartsgiant.com.
They were the only supplier that still had them
that I could find. Many thanks.

Mark, I really appreciate your kind offer. Hopefully I'll
have some new ones in a few days.

Apparently many of the OHV parts are becoming
obsolete these days. At least that's the way it looks
when scrolling through the parts lists....

 

[kindred4x]

Kindred4X, by using your part number, I was able
to order 6 studs from Fordpartsgiant.com.
They were the only supplier that still had them
that I could find. Many thanks.

Mark, I really appreciate your kind offer. Hopefully I'll
have some new ones in a few days.

Apparently many of the OHV parts are becoming
obsolete these days. At least that's the way it looks
when scrolling through the parts lists....

Glad I could help.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Update

Well, my order for the studs was cancelled.
FordPartsGiant said they had been discontinued
and weren't available anywhere. They just
hadn't deleted them from their parts list yet.

Luckily I got the plenum off and back on with
all bolts intact, so no need for new ones yet.

Mojoe, what about the bolts you found at Ace
Hardware? Were they a standard metric bolt or
did they have the center flange like the stock
Ford studs do?

 

[Midwest Dually]

Very interesting.. I had to fuss around with mine a while back, and going to have to again as I have to replace the rest of the injectors. The heads on mine are getting a little rough, so an alternative would be nice....

 

[mojoe]

I looked at that pic posted by kindred4x and thought, "I don't remember that flange" - but it was a couple years ago and I can't remember what I had for lunch today so I looked through the old bolt collection and actually found the old ones because I changed them all after breaking one. I was right, no flange, because I'm an idiot, I have a 95 ohv and a 97sohc and I did the intake gaskets on the sohc not the ohv. Sorry for the bad info. Is the flange necessary or would a long enough bolt work? I think I had to shorten the ones I used but if you had time to order the right size you could skip that pita step. Mine worked out fine - starts right up and runs like a champ.

 

[Dazzlin' Dave]

Why the shoulder?

Why do the fuel rail and upper intake need to be torqued separately, especially the earlier aluminum bodied upper? I don't get it. I don't see why it should matter if you sandwich the fuel rail between the lower and upper with straight studs. I just had my heads reworked and now have a damn vacuum leak, after pinching an o-ring on an injector, though I was lucky to find a pair of upper gaskets on eBay for $8, I think I'm just gonna Permatex the crap out of it and let it go with the gaskets that are on it! Don't feel like blowing another $35 for a new gasket set that may or may not hold. These gaskets only have 500mi on them tops!!!! (btw, when I say Permatex the crap out of it, I mean to do it right with an even layer, not too thick, let it set up firm then place the intake and let it harden up before tightening it)
I've read the 4.0ohv intakes are prone to vacuum leaks, especially 93-94

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

The sealant should work fine.

I think the upper and lower intakes are torqued individually
because of the different materials used and the different expansion rates...?

When I did my head work, I ran a bead of sealant around the coolant ports on each end of the lower intake. Just as
insurance. So far, so good, no leaks.........yet.

 

[Dono]

I was kinda wondering about this post also, as there is never an issue with pulling the upper intake to get at the injector O rings.

The upper to lower gasket is the black )-rings, and I cant see an issue with using permatex also, other than clean up the next time that upper comes off.

Yes, its pretty easy to not get a injector O-ring to seat. I used oil, and lots of patience. I still missed one during one of my injector removals.

 

[Dazzlin' Dave]

Injector Replacement!

Ah ha! There's the answer! Wasn't thinking of that. I guess it wouldn't matter if you used a straight stud and sandwiched them together on the same torquing sequence, however if you were to do an injector replacement you'd have to regasket the fuel rail to lower intake. As for separate torque, on my 94 the upper, lower and fuel rail are all aluminum. I wondered about the later models which are plastic (God knows why... WTFF????) but I noticed in photos I've seen there's a metal sleeve, bolster, to keep from over compressing the plastic, so I can't see a prob on either. When I go back with it I'm gonna skip the stupid E7 torx socket and just use a stud socket to torque the studs back in... solves the problem of replacing the buggered up fasteners.
I ran a bead of Permatex across the same spot, around the coolant ports and on each end of the lower, which was recommended in the gasket kit instructions I had.
I used to be in charge of the small fleet of trucks and trailers at my dad's shop before I had a bad wreck back in 97, I spun an early model Explorer around backwards with my bike, he was drunk and whipped a left, hit me head on, I left a 15' skidmark before kissing his grille doin' 50mph! My skills are mostly old school and this is the first time I had the "pleasure" of doing an EFI intake , in my ignorance I didn't use any lube on the o-rings at all and shaved one in half... was spewing fuel so bad it filled the pockets of the lower intake and formed a 2'-3' puddle under the truck before I realized it was leaking! Looked up a how-to and found a post recommending Vaseline, worked like a charm! I wouldn't recommend oil, when I did my wife's Isuzu fuel pump (TOTAL PITA!!) the o-ring was really stubborn and I didn't have anything handy, so I swiped some off the dipstick, made the o-ring swell for some reason. Maybe fresh oil would be no prob, but used oil off the dipstick was a bad idea, or it was crap materials in the o-ring (good neoprene shouldn't have any prob with any type of fuels or oils).
Thanks for the thoughts!
Peace!