Oil and Filter Change

[TownCarTechi]

I pulled up a thread for oil change using the search function, but then I realized it was from the forum for the 2001 -2005 Explorer. The thread was about how often the members changed the oil in their vehicles.

I just changed the oil and filter on my sons' 98 Explorer Sport. They've put only 2600 miles since we bought it last year, but I wanted to get new oil into it.

What a mess! The drain plug is positioned to shoot the oil directly against part of the chassis, so I couldn't keep all of the oil in my drain pan. It looks like a bigger (longer) pan is required for the DIY. The oil filter is easy to remove, but it also drips directly onto the chassis when you start to remove it. I may just have to give up this task to the lube shops, unless someone else can share their secrets, if they have any.

 

[marragtop]

I use a big flat drain pad and I have a rather large rug I put under it as well.

 

[Lacky01]

I hold the drip pan close to the drain when it first starts out, then set it down after it slows a bit. for the filter I've always just wiped up the chassis when finished.

maybe one could design and fab a tool that would not only loosen the oil filter, but also allow the oil to drip directly into your drip pan.

or just a piece of cardboard on your frame?

 

[techieman33]

You can get a drain valve for the oil pan, fumoto, and fram make them, there might be others as well. You put a hose on them and then direct the oil where you want it to go. And for the oil filter put a ziploc bag over it to catch the all of the mess.

 

[my98nnj]

I use tin foil to help direct the oil to where I want it to go. No mess to clean up, just toss it in the trash.

 

[Mbrooks420]

If I'm not in a hurry I pop a hole in the bottom of the filter and let it drain out before removing. Get it broke free before though, or the oil on the outside can make it tricky.

 

[gijoecam]

Two options: Fumoto valve (or equivalent), or for $30, replace the oil pan with one of a later vintage. They changed the angle of the drain plug hole, I think just for that reason.

This image shows it the best:

As for the filter, do it cold. You lose a few dribbles (maybe a few ounces) and that's about it. If you do it while the engine is warm (or after recently being started), it's gonna be messy. I break the seal on the filter and let it drain for a few minutes while I find the new filter and lube up the seal.

Another option: A gallon ziplock bag. Turn it inside out halfway, and put it over the end of the filter. Spin off the filter and all the oil will drop into the bag instead of down your arm.

 

[Lacky01]

neat trick, thanks!

 

[TownCarTechi]

Thanks, guys, for all the helpful hints. I knew I could get some reasonable advice if I just asked. I guess I can continue changing the oil and filter after all.

Hey gijoecam, do you know when Ford changed to the new oil pan design?

 

[gijoecam]

No clue. From what I remember it was around 2001, but I just called and ordered a pan for my '98 and that was what they sent me. The part number had been superseded several times, so you should be good to go.

 

[ranger7ltr]

There are serious differences in model years...

My 99 Explorer sport with the OHV engine uses an aluminum pan with the drain plug straight down!!! Until I saw the pan Gijoecam had, I was confused on the problem you were having with oil draining...

Now the oil filter I concur with everyone else.. Wrap it with the ziploc, punch a hole in it first and let it drain, or cover the chassis first then pull it.. Or use a remote oil filter setup like I did and mount it under the front of the truck..

And the Fumoto valve is the best 20-25 bucks you can spend IMO...I need no tools to change oil except my hands and drain pan....

Now if there was a valve made to drain the filter before removing it I wouldn't even need a towel to clean up....

 

[mikepier]

I use a coffee can( plastic or metal) around the filter and unscrew it. All of the oil is contained in it. Also the Fram SureDrain helps a lot too.

 

[TheJackal]

My 99 Explorer sport with the OHV engine uses an aluminum pan with the drain plug straight down!!! Until I saw the pan Gijoecam had, I was confused on the problem you were having with oil draining...

Me too. I guess theirs has the SOHC? :scratch:

Now the oil filter I concur with everyone else.. Wrap it with the ziploc, punch a hole in it first and let it drain, or cover the chassis first then pull it.. Or use a remote oil filter setup like I did and mount it under the front of the truck..

I've never had a problem with the filter on this one, especially since it points straight down on this one. I've had some where the filter is sideways and it makes a huge mess, but this one is relatively mess-free. You need a long ass extension to get at it tho.

 

[tknewlin]

Tin Foil

I use tin foil to help direct the oil to where I want it to go. No mess to clean up, just toss it in the trash.

This is a great idea. I did this last night and it worked great. I stuck it to the inside on the frame with magnets. Left both hands free.
BTW No drip from the filter. This is the easiest oil change I've done in quite a while.
? Anyone else have a drain plug with SAE hex head?

Thanks

 

[CDW6212R]

No clue. From what I remember it was around 2001, but I just called and ordered a pan for my '98 and that was what they sent me. The part number had been superseded several times, so you should be good to go.

Say Joe, how much was the pan for you? I need to add an oil return tap plug in mine, and I wonder what a new pan costs.

 

[gijoecam]

Say Joe, how much was the pan for you? I need to add an oil return tap plug in mine, and I wonder what a new pan costs.

If my memory serves, it was like $34 delivered direct from Ford Employee Parts. (One of the perks of working for Uncle Henry)

From Torrie at www.fastpartsnetwork.com, the list price is $57.33, and the out the door price is $48.16 plus shipping.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks Joe, I'll think about it, much to do.