over heating

[Captj122]

Hey everyone, some of you may remember that last November I had a new engine dropped into my 02 xlt 4.6 4x4- Since then a number of other problems have popped up. The latest is that I have had 2 times it has overheated with in 300 miles. !st time I almost got into a accident. On cruise, doing 60, see a red light 1/2 mile ahead, tap the brakes, to disengage the cruise, and I notice it did not slow down. Everything happened at once! Cruise light is off, temp gauge pegged. Stood on the brakes, it slowed a little, but....put it into neutral, engine started to rev. towards redline and check eng. light came on. Turned key off, still standing on the brakes, and notice steam and fluid coming fro under the hood. I finally stopped half way into the intersection. Got it off the road into a gas station. System was dry. Filled system up, made it to sears, pressure tsted. good but I had them change the thermostat any how and put on a new cap on the res. They left it heat up and no tblrs. (Forgot to mention I was 300 miles from home.) On way home the light came up and gauge pegged again. Turned on the heater and barely made it home. Dry again, I checked all hoses, them seem tight. Nothing blocking the rad. Any suggestions.

 

[Joe in NY]

Check your pressure cap. Ford has awful rep for junk caps. You can take a bucket full of ford caps and 90% of them wont hold more than 5 psi... Get your cap tested or just put a new one on...

 

[Number4]

There no evidence of where the fluid is leaking?

 

[Captj122]

I can find no leaks.I did for the hell of it give all hose clamps a extra turn to tighten them. Also in my original post I did say I had the cap on the res. changed. One point of interest, the fluid level in the res. has not changed, even though the rad. itself was dry. Also, during the 300 miles home, I ended up leaving the heater run full blast. Ideas????????

 

[Bobmbx]

I can find no leaks.I did for the hell of it give all hose clamps a extra turn to tighten them. Also in my original post I did say I had the cap on the res. changed. One point of interest, the fluid level in the res. has not changed, even though the rad. itself was dry. Also, during the 300 miles home, I ended up leaving the heater run full blast. Ideas????????

When you boiled over, from where was the coolant spewing?

 

[Joe in NY]

oh sorry. I read your post but somehow missed that little detail! oops.

No unusual amounts of water out the exhaust I'm assuming?

 

[Captj122]

The overflow was from the res., I am assuming it was really boiling for a while, not really enough to see when at speed and somehow that is what froze the throttle. I did read the codes and the computer shows exactly what happened. p1270,p1285,and p1299 twice. After I was off the road, engine off, I jumped on the gas pedal a few times and it finally released.
Thanks,
Jim

 

[Number4]

I'd do what Joe suggested. I'd have a shop pressure test the cap. Did Sears do that? Or did they just pressure check the system for leaks?

How are you identifying that the radiator is empty?

 

[Captj122]

Number 4, on the 02' there is only the cap on the res. --no cap on the rad. itself. I had them put in a new thermostat and a new cap on the res. for the hell of it. Still looking for idea's.
Jim

 

[Number4]

Number 4, on the 02' there is only the cap on the res. --no cap on the rad. itself. I had them put in a new thermostat and a new cap on the res. for the hell of it. Still looking for idea's.
Jim

Filling these systems can be difficult. If not done properly, the upper hose can become a void. Add to that the potential that you had a bad reservoir cap and you could have easily boiled and overheated

Also, you may have a clogged radiator.

To fill these, with the thermostat out, pour in coolant. Spin the water pump to remove any air. Repeat until the fluid stays level at the stat. Install tstat and housing. Then, rotate the upper hose so as to poor coolant (mixed of course) into the radiator filling it.
Rotate the hose back and connect it to the installed tstat housing (watch that you don't pour coolant everywhere. Tighten all clamps. Run the engine and maintain the coolant level in the reservoir. It may suck some in with the cap off, but you'll need to pressurize the system for it to suck in like it needs.
Keep topping off the reservoir until the upper hose becomes 'rigid' and warm. Indicating it has coolant in it. This can be a long process. One that some repair shops may not do completely.

Has it overheated since?

 

[Joe in NY]

Oh forgot. Procedure for every new car is to pull as good of a vacuum you can on the system and with the vacuum still holding allow the fluid to fill the system. Then set heater to max heat and keep engine rev'd up to 1500 rpm and wait till the system reaches normal temp.

This is a near guarantee to have no air pockets any where.

 

[Captj122]

Well----Still losing fluid(overheating). Number4, this is how I filled the system--but not putting a vacumn on it. Looks like I will be taking it to a dealer, remember I mentioned the engine is new---7000 miles on it, and I would like to get their response on the stuck throttle. If any other ideas pop up, let me know. I will post what happens.
Jim

 

[Number4]

Where'd the replacement engine come from? Really sounds like your losing the fluid through combustion. Which would a obviously suck.

 

[Captj122]

#4 , The engine is a crate, installed by a dealer off if I-26. I was driving from Fl. to Pa. when the old engine blew. Beginning of last Nov. is when the old blew and got it back right before Thanksgiving, so it is under warranty. I have only 7k on the new eng.

 

[Number4]

#4 , The engine is a crate, installed by a dealer off if I-26. I was driving from Fl. to Pa. when the old engine blew. Beginning of last Nov. is when the old blew and got it back right before Thanksgiving, so it is under warranty. I have only 7k on the new eng.

Don't touch anything on it then. Don't give them any reason to point blame at you. Do NOT tell them you drove it while over heating. It obviously had an issue prior but they'll again potentially blame you.

 

[Captj122]

well----I got it back from the Dealer and $200 later they found nothing. They very stongly suggest I put in a new {factory} thermostat back in, they think the old was sticking. I told them I just had it installed, they restated they think it is sticking. I ok'd the install. As far as the stuck pedal, they cleaned and oil the cable??? Once I got home. I started to think it should be under the new engine warranty. Any comments????

 

[Number4]

uh, you overheated before the new thermostat and after. I'd have to say it isn't the issue and they just wasted 200 putting one in. Did they put in a new radiator? don't let them off the hook. if it overheated, there's a reason.