Parking Brake -- Doesn't Work

[zPike00EB]

The Title pretty much sums it up.

When I engage the parking brake, The (P) light no longer shows on the dash, and when put into gear, the truck rolls gleefully away.

This is a pain because I can no longer watch movies on my Head Unit as it requires a "pulse" from the Parking brake.


Would a change of pads correct this? Or is it more of an electrical problem?

 

[96eb96]

The Title pretty much sums it up.

When I engage the parking brake, The (P) light no longer shows on the dash, and when put into gear, the truck rolls gleefully away.

This is a pain because I can no longer watch movies on my Head Unit as it requires a "pulse" from the Parking brake.


Would a change of pads correct this? Or is it more of an electrical problem?

Well, there is a simple electrical switch that controls the light on the dash and probably the head unit too, so you can adjust/repair that. I believe it is around the parking brake control pedal assembly, toward the back.

The parking brakes not working is another story, that will require an overhaul of the rear brakes. Your best bet is searching the forums, and downloading one of the manuals in my signature. Either that or parting with a few Benjamins .

 

[Cobraguy]

Pull the rear tires and rotors and see what shape your parking brake shoes are in. If good, then just adjust them through the access holes in the backing plates using a brake spoon or screwdriver you can get to fit. You want to adjust them so that when you turn the wheel, the shoes just BARELY touch the rotor. You will now have a parking brake! You know, come to think of it, you may be able to inspect the shoes through an access hole in the backing plate. Can't remember for sure on that one though.

 

[96eb96]

Pull the rear tires and rotors and see what shape your parking brake shoes are in. If good, then just adjust them through the access holes in the backing plates using a brake spoon or screwdriver you can get to fit. You want to adjust them so that when you turn the wheel, the shoes just BARELY touch the rotor. You will now have a parking brake! You know, come to think of it, you may be able to inspect the shoes through an access hole in the backing plate. Can't remember for sure on that one though.

usually in salt belt states when these fail after a nearly a decade there is massive corrosion on the brake linkages to the point of being welded together, and the shoes are often unusable due to being worn down or glazed. Also water can get into the cables, corrode the sheath, and lock them up or make them partially retract. They often ironically fail from not using them, because everytime you use them you break the corrosion layer.

But its sure worth a shot to look!

You can't inspect the shoes without taking off the rotor, you can only adjust the starwheel that can move the shoes against the drum.

If there is any at all corrosion though, you may get the system to work fine, and the shoes will not retract properly and wear down in a few trips. Its very common here for people to get new shoes for inspection, and not use the brake all year(while it glazes due to partial contact) and then have to do it again next year. I know guys who inspect cars and tell me this.

You really have to inspect the system for binding and proper retraction, Cables too. Its not just a matter of stopping the truck. Also older springs are weaker and may not have the ability to overcome the prevailing friction to pull the shoes back. Best to do the job right the first time...

 

[Cobraguy]

usually in salt belt states when these fail after a nearly a decade there is massive corrosion on the brake linkages to the point of being welded together

You know...I forget about the rust belt! You are correct...if those haven't been used for a while, he will more than likely need everything...including the cables and a BFH just to get the rotors off.

Just to make you guys feel bad, I did the complete brakes and suspension on my 95 a couple of weeks ago. I mean EVERYTHING. Nothing was rusted...nothing seized. That's with 170K on the clock. You gotta love it here!

 

[96eb96]

You know...I forget about the rust belt! You are correct...if those haven't been used for a while, he will more than likely need everything...including the cables and a BFH just to get the rotors off.

Just to make you guys feel bad, I did the complete brakes and suspension on my 95 a couple of weeks ago. I mean EVERYTHING. Nothing was rusted...nothing seized. That's with 170K on the clock. You gotta love it here!

That is so unfair. I'm working on a car now with about 200K where I need mapp torches to remove every nut, and all the bushings have to be cut thru or smoked out due to corroded sleeves. One nut didn't budge with heat, kroil and a 3' breaker bar with all my weight . Ended up grinding it down and replacing all the bushings behind it. Different set of rules here

The car washes here have big signs in the winter with bold print "SALT EATS CARS." What a true statement.