Passenger's Side Caliper not fully releasing

[cwparts]

I am having an issue with my front passenger's side caliper not fully releasing causing the brakes to drag. When I brake, my Explorer pulls to the left, which indicates that PS caliper is not engaging during braking. Also, when I come to a stop, the ABS pump kicks on.

I have already replaced both front rubber hoses. The pistons for the caliper pushes back in fine, with no signs of binding. Also, when I bleed the passenger's side caliper with a speed bleeder, it bleeds very slowly like there is a restriction.

I was planning on replacing the master cylinder, but I don't want to start buying parts that I don't need. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

The first thing to check would be the guide pin bolts
for freedom of movement. If the guide pins are rusted and
sticking, that would cause the problems you describe.

Sometimes they are a bear to get loose; try spraying with a
penetrant and work back and forth a little at a time until it
works free. Then lube with a high temp caliper pin lube.

 

[budwich]

since you have replaced both front hoses, they should be easy to take off...... I would take the right one off again.... why ??? because you observed "poor bleed rates". I have seen problems with the hose ("totally" blocked) causing what appeared to be a "frozen caliper" even with a brand new caliper. By taking the hose off and checking the "bleed rate" (and / or "operaitional flow") at the "metal line" fitting, hopefully you will see a difference. IF not, then your problem is further back.... most likely a kink/bend in the line somewhere.

 

[cwparts]

The first thing to check would be the guide pin bolts
for freedom of movement. If the guide pins are rusted and
sticking, that would cause the problems you describe.

Sometimes they are a bear to get loose; try spraying with a
penetrant and work back and forth a little at a time until it
works free. Then lube with a high temp caliper pin lube.

Thank you for your input. I have already done brakes all around (new pads & rotors) and installed new brake pad retaining clips and greased all the guide pin bolts. Also, everything is torqued down to spec with my trusty Snap-On torque wrench.

since you have replaced both front hoses, they should be easy to take off...... I would take the right one off again.... why ??? because you observed "poor bleed rates". I have seen problems with the hose ("totally" blocked) causing what appeared to be a "frozen caliper" even with a brand new caliper. By taking the hose off and checking the "bleed rate" (and / or "operaitional flow") at the "metal line" fitting, hopefully you will see a difference. IF not, then your problem is further back.... most likely a kink/bend in the line somewhere.

That's great advice. I would also like to mention that the "slow bleed rate" remained the same after replacing the new rubber hoses.

The bent/kinked line is a very likely possibility. I did a head gasket job awhile back, and walked around inside the engine bay. I was planning on replacing all the brake lines when I had a full weekend to myself, but that hasn't happened in months. I will look for kinks and remove the hose. Thanks budwich!

 

[budwich]

that probably points to a bad line... BUT... manufacturer "errors" do happen and the crimping on the new hose could be "bad" or the fitting opening isn't aligned
or the rubber might have a "clug" ... hence, trying to eliminate it from the "circuit" will help focus you in the right direction. Odds are likely a bent line if you were "walking the line" in the engine area.