Front Passenger Brakes Not Releasing

[Bmatlock00]

A few months ago my front passenger side brakes failed to release, so I eased it back home and after reading online I replaced the brake hose and replaced and greased the caliper pins, that seemed to fix the problem, until now 3 months later it happened again. I'm pretty sure it is something up top. If it were the master cylinder wouldn't both the front brakes be locked up? Could it be the abs module? This is on a 2001 Explorer Sport

 

[gmanpaint]

You would have a code thrown and a light on if it was the ABS.

I would tend to think it is just a bad caliper. They do break now & than.

 

[Bmatlock00]

If I open the bleeder screw on the caliper and it releases, that will rule out the caliper being bad, correct?

 

[lobo411]

If I open the bleeder screw on the caliper and it releases, that will rule out the caliper being bad, correct?

I'd say no. Just because it releases when it has 0% hydraulic pressure doesn't mean it isn't binding when it has x% hydraulic pressure.

The driver's side rear caliper did the same thing to me, btw. My dad pointed out the pad's uneven wear but I was too lazy to do the job for a few months. Then I one day sunlight hit the rotor at the perfect angle for me to notice that the sticky caliper had worn the pad down to the rivets on that side of the rotor, causing several deep gouges in the rotor. Instead of having to replace two calipers and maybe a couple of pads, I now had to do the above + 2 new rotors.

PS--My stuck rear caliper released with a little force just like any normal caliper when I was removing it.

 

[Bmatlock00]

Thanks for your guys input, I'll pick up a new caliper tomorrow and put it on. Hopefully that is the problem. My explorer sat up for a couple of years, but I bought a new truck and decided to get the explorer back in shape to drive back and forth to work (100 miles) everyday. So far I have replaced tires, shocks/struts, control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links, brake pads, wheel bearings, and all new body mounts as the originals had deteriorated to absolutely nothing. This week I have polished the paint out and got it shining again. With 177,000 miles now she rides and drives like a dream now.... As long as the brakes release! image hosting sites

 

[lobo411]

Thanks for your guys input, I'll pick up a new caliper tomorrow and put it on. Hopefully that is the problem. My explorer sat up for a couple of years, but I bought a new truck and decided to get the explorer back in shape to drive back and forth to work (100 miles) everyday. So far I have replaced tires, shocks/struts, control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links, brake pads, wheel bearings, and all new body mounts as the originals had deteriorated to absolutely nothing. This week I have polished the paint out and got it shining again. With 177,000 miles now she rides and drives like a dream now.... As long as the brakes release!

Looks awesome! IIRC you need to replace both calipers, though, to keep things symmetrical (one side has a new caliper, and the other has an old one = dangerous).

You might get away with keeping the other, but personally I wouldn't take a chance with the brakes. I just replaced both and put in new pads/rotors too.

 

[R1dd1cK]

It could also be a collapsed brake line.

 

[blakshukvw]

It could be the master cylinder or a sticky piston in the caliper or a collapsed rubber line or I've even seen people install the caliper incorrectly after a brake job by twisting the rubber brake line and they didn't notice. This could put added pressure in the line applying the caliper even when your not Applying the brakes.

 

[Bmatlock00]

I jacked the explorer up and got the wheel off, then I decided to pump the brakes up a few times to replicate the problem, but it is releasing just fine now. I don't know if I should go ahead and replace the caliper or what. I would just wait for it to happen again, but who knows where I'll be!

 

[bill06447]

When the caliper gets hot the piston most likely binds in the bore. They run around $40 plus core, if it were mine I'd go and replace the caliper.

Bill

 

[Bmatlock00]

Thanks bill, that makes perfect sense! When I have been drive back and forth to work about 50 miles one way it is all interstate and I rarely ever touch the brakes. Yesterday when it locked up I was running around town doing a lot of braking.

 

[koda2000]

replace both front calipers. if one's sticking the other's not far behind. don't mess around with something as important as your brakes.

 

[swshawaii]

Another cheap option is replacing the piston seals and dust boots as long as the pin bores are in good condition, and you're willing to take the time. Seeing the junk in the bottom of the cylinder bores is amazing, that's why it's recommended to open the bleeders before compressing the pistons when installing new pads. Agree that rebuilt calipers are inexpensive and easy, but I resealed them just to gain personal experience. First pic is two weeks AFTER flushing two quarts of Valvoline DOT 3/4 fluid. Kinda fun too!

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1366679,parttype,1720

 

[fast_dave]

OP - Sounds like you have a brake piston that is beginning to rust within it's cylinder of the caliper.

Note: You did have a good 1st idea with cleaning and greasing the caliper pins - that's almost always overlooked ;-)

Question: Say - here's the second most overlooked thing; Have you ever flushed ALL of the old brake fluid from your brake system and replaced it with new brake fluid?

What to look for: Is the brake fluid in your master cylinder black in color? If so, it's time to replace it. Brake fluid that comes fresh out of the can//container is clear, and continues to be good until it starts getting beyond a slight yellow tint color. Black fluid is past it's service life.

Brake fluid is glycol based (what they make anti-freeze out of) and thus is hydroscopic, meaning that it seeks out water to bind to. Over time, atmospheric conditions (humidity) will cause brake fluid to absorb water, which will sink to the bottom of your brake system (calipers and pistons). The water causes rust to occur, and over time, pistons and calipers to stick. To answer your question; It's not uncommon that the problem shows up by having only ONE CALIPER stick.

Brake fluid should be flushed every 3 years to keep your system water & rust free, as well as to flush out other junk that builds up in brake fluid (metals and rubber).

The damage might be already done (the piston may be "really/very" stuck) and you may have to replace your caliper, but it's good info to know to keep your Ex on the road for the future. No use replacing the calipers and/or pistons without flushing your "black" brake fluid.

For real fun, flush the old brake fluid into a clear plastic milk jug, then hold the jug up towards the sun, and swirl it around - you'll be shocked at what you see in there, and this subject will all come together full circle ;-)

Good luck and Merry Christmas!!!!

 

[Bmatlock00]

Thanks for everyone's help, I replaced both front calipers and hoses. Everything seems be working great, but since the problem was kinda intermittent, only time will tell if I fixed it. The fluid doesn't look too bad, but I plan on flushing the system anyways, I just ran out of time to do it today.