Planning To Buy Need Opinions ASAP!

[huntersteve61]

Hello all, I've been a member here for quite a while owning a 1999 ex. Well I come to you 1st gens as I have sold my 99 and want an explorer.

Heres the deal 1994 XLT red 101,000 miles, no tranny/engine issues. Slight whine at low rpm. Abs light is on but probably due to a soft pedal... I expect a new brake system instal. Now the tricky part. Ford discontinued this and fuel lines!!!! I need brake lines and figure on doin the fuel lines cause they aren't far behind. Who has suggestions on this?

Next is 1675.00 a decent offer for such a vehicle given the repairs needed? Rust is minimal and is only in the rear fender. Rocker/door/inside door seem are all solid no rust no bubbles. The rest of the paint/body is flawless. Truly taken care of.

Thanks In Advance all

 

[The exploder]

101,000 miles wow are you sure its not 201000. When i bought mine the guy said that it only had 70,000 miles. I am not sure whether it is true or not i plan on doing some research to find out.

 

[JMan689]

For the brake lines go to a junkyard, find someone who is parting one out, grab some off another vehicle.

For the fuel lines, just go all out and get a steel braided hose kit.

 

[jg09]

I just looked around at ordering front brake lines for my '91 (as well as calipers, pads, and rotors). Schucks had them, as well as NAPA. It seemed like Schucks was a little cheaper ($19.99 for the right, $18.99 for the left). Do you need new brakes all around or just on front/back?

 

[Flandry]

Next is 1675.00 a decent offer for such a vehicle given the repairs needed?

Roughly, $1675 is going to be $700-$1000 below book value for what you described. If you do the work you mentioned yourself, you might spend around $400. So it sounds like it could be a decent deal to me.

 

[huntersteve61]

Yea I priced front pads, rotors rear shoes I THINK its shoes. Not 100% sure but anyhow. With that and calipers, rotors/drums, brake and fuel lines I came to about 350 in parts. My dad has his own shop soo we geta deep discount. I don't much care if I have abs. I recieved a call about a 92 Ranger with about 40,000 ona SOHC 4.0!!!!! Its a sweet motor to be dropped in that ranger. The body is rattle can black with a set of american racing rims on 30's and an extra set of wagon wheels and 32 thornbirds. guy wants 1000 bucks cause the truck looks like hell but mechanically its been completely done over. new clutch new brake system new cat back duals..... Now do I stick with my beloved beautiful explorer or do I buy the lifted AND LOCKED ****ty lookin ranger and play in the dirt?!

 

[JMan689]

Keep the X for a daily and use the Ranger for a toy.

 

[jg09]

...about 40,000 ona SOHC 4.0!!!!!

With only 5 digit odometers on those older trucks, I don't know if I'd believe that.

 

[92Dora]

if your gonna buy it i have 2 ford explorer 2wd im parting out.....i could sell you parts off them if your interested

 

[huntersteve61]

Ok well I priced parts out for the explorer today. Heres what it needs for inspection.... Rear shoes and drums, wheel cyl both sides, front brake lines, fuel lines, iac motor, full exhaust including cats, needs 4 new tires and alignment, ball joints both sides, pwr steering pump is screaming soo will go soon. ABS light is on and engages randomly.... Parts alone with the tires i'm over 700 bucks and probably 2 weekends of work..... now is it worth 1500....

Also found a nice ranger supercab in ohio for 1500 bucks, or stick with the down right dog lookin ranger for 1000..... Can't afford to dump 2500 bucks into an explorer i think I go for ranger?

 

[bisjoe]

Also found a nice ranger supercab in ohio for 1500 bucks, or stick with the down right dog lookin ranger for 1000..... Can't afford to dump 2500 bucks into an explorer i think I go for ranger?

I went from an Explorer to a Ranger. The truck is a lot more fun, except in the snow. It's also more economical, easier to park, not as many things to go wrong, and not as many people bug you for rides.

 

[Flandry]

and not as many people bug you for rides.

Yeah, but every time someone needs to move something... :

..... now is it worth 1500....

Also found a nice ranger supercab in ohio for 1500 bucks, or stick with the down right dog lookin ranger for 1000..... Can't afford to dump 2500 bucks into an explorer i think I go for ranger?

With all that work, $1500 is not a rip off. But it's no deal either. If you really like that Explorer and don't mind doing the work needed, detail the repairs needed to the owner and see where a starting offer of $1150 gets you.

As for the Rangers, I'd be a bit wary of the mileage/wear on the beater too. Otherwise, they could be reasonable deals (you didn't give details on the Supercab). So it's really up to you deciding a couple of things:

First, do you want to spend time and effort getting something more upscale running (Explorer), or do you want something you can "drive now" (Ranger).

Second, which is more important - getting something for the least amount of money or getting something that fits the way you live the best. If it's the second one, which one suits you best?

Just remember, these are not uncommon vehicles. If none of these fit the bill, keep looking.

 

[huntersteve61]

Yea that explorer and proven a few more problems including the obvious heater core smell inside the cabin at operating temperature... The ranger guy is not responding to 2 phone calls in 4 days so I assume he cares less of the sale.. I've looked at an old K5 blazer and a full size bronco but I FEAR the gas bill.... For now I'm just going to keep looking for an explorer or a nice jeep and always open to rangers with decent mechanical shape..... you do make alot of sense i'm not buyin something just to blow it up thats stupid...

 

[huntersteve61]

Unfortunatly I have to report I choose a 93 Cherokee Sport, don't know **** about it other then the obvious but it seems like I could save some big chunks of change liftin it as its already a SOA and front coils. Does anyone have any experience with our jeep counterparts?

 

[jg09]

I worked quite a bit on my friend’s ’87, so I pretty well know them inside and out like the palm of my hand. What do you need to know?

 

[huntersteve61]

Perfect, Well for one I have no reverse lights but if i move the shifter forward n back almost rocking into park or neutral... i get a blink of reverse lights soo I kno that its a connection someplace but thers nothing under the shifter, possibly transmssion??? I hope not internal. Second the manifold is leaking at the bottom flange where the weld is, told this is all too common, would a headder do much? I have a ticking in the engin almost all the time when its runnin but if u run like to work by the time u get there it has stopped. is this normal? i want to lift it but are spring spacers and blocks safe or do i need to get new coils? how big can I go on the tires

 

[jg09]

I'm not entirely sure of the transmission shift problem, although I'll take a guess. I believe that there's a sensor on the transmission that tells the reverse lights to activate. There's a connection that's most likely bad there.

For some reason, I can't picture what exactly is going on with the manifold. Want to PM me some pics (or URLs to pics)?

It sounds like you have some lifter/valve knock. That's how my Explorer is for a lot of its driving. My mom's Subaru Forester is REALLY bad with that, especially on cold mornings. A valve job will fix that up and won't be too expensive.

As for lift spacers/blocks, it depends on how much you're going up and how big of tires you want to run. The biggest coil pucks and leaf blocks I'd go with would be 1.5"-2". After that, you're seriously screwing up ride quality and suspension/steering geometry.

For tire size, it depends on how much you're going to use it off road. If you're really going to pound it, only go with 33's. If you're going to do mild to moderate off road, then go with 35s.

If you go with 33s, I'd get 4" lift coils and leaves and the corresponding components (i.e. steering arm, brake lines, etc.). For 35s, I'd say 6" lift and corresponding components, or 3" of lift, 1.5" spacers, and fender flares (that'd be cheaper).

 

[dewgod]

Heep

If your gonna drive a heep you need to join NAXJA at http://www.naxja.org/ I have 2 buddies that are members and it is a great organization. Also with a heep Cherokee you need a steering box brace as this is a very week point, espically with lift and bigger tires, you also need to get chasis stiffiners that keep the unibody from tweaking. then do like every other heep owner does and that is J(ust) E(mpty) E(very) P(ocket). Hope you enjoy your Jeep, I'm getting two of them in Jan. A 1972 Wagoneer and a real Cherokee a 1974 version.

 

[smtcapecod]

I had a '98 Cherokee Limited with Select-Trac and a 2000 Grand Cherokee with Quadra-TracII. Both were good vehicles. Cherokee was prone to a crack in the exhaust manifold and issues with the upper shock mounting bolts snapping. Don't remember many other achilles heels. With the grand, the climate control stepper motor was prone to failure and required huge amount of work and cost to change out. Also, the transmission shift program sucked unless upgraded with a shift kit. Both could climb trees though! And the V8 was nice...

 

[jg09]

Hey, forgot to mention, a popular rear axle option for the XJ is to swap in an Explorer's 8.8" rear. With alloy 35 spline shafts and a new carrier, you'll be able to run 35's with litte (if any) fear while out on the trail. Stock, the XJ comes with a Dana 35, which is basically junk.

As for the front Dana 30...you're on your own. Swap in a Dana 44 from an older F-250 possibly. They're fairly cheap and easy to come across in wrecking yards.