Popping noise from tailgate

[SHUMAX]

Non powered tailgate. I get a metal on metal pop when I got over bumps at low speed. Definitely something up high and inside. It's not in the suspension. That feels tight and is quiet. I rode back there and you can hear it up high. I did a lot of messing around with trim panels, sound deadening material, etc. Finally, I had the gas struts that hold it up replaced. No change. Decided to remove them and drive. Noise gone!! I tightened the bolts they attach to and they didn't turn more than 1/4 of a turn.

I am trying to determine what would cause that sound when those struts are installed, but not when they are unhooked. Clearly they provide some tension, but what does that translate into?

Thoughts?

Shumax

 

[sheltonfilms]

Try putting some grease on on the ball stud they connect to. Could be some clearance between the struts and the ball.

 

[SHUMAX]

Good call. Tried that too. May try some thicker grease tho!

 

[peterk9]

Good call. Tried that too. May try some thicker grease tho!

Try removing one at a time to see if that isolates the noise to one or the other side.

Peter

 

[SHUMAX]

Good suggestion! I will try that tomorrow...

 

[SHUMAX]

So here is what I tried today...

3M makes a paint on tape that's used, primarily, for electrical connections in lieu of the standard "black electrical tape." It sticks to metal, plastic, etc., so I thought I would give it a try. I cleaned the ball off that the strut attaches to with brake cleaner a few times to be sure it was clean and then let it dry. From there, I applied two thick coats of the 3M product letting each coat dry thoroughly.

From there, I went to Advance Auto Parts and bought Lucas's "Red and Tacky" grease. It's very thick, tacky and has a dose of locktite included in it, too. The stuff is very thick and sticky.

I applied it inside the socks of the strut that attaches to the ball on the frame of the tailgate and body of the car. It took some pressure to get the ball and socket connected as I'm sure I took up a lot of the slack in there with these two products. Eventually, it went on and the clips secured.

I haven't driven it yet, but will this evening and will report back. I'm not sure what else to do if this does not work. I'm surprised that others' have not mentioned this noise as it's very apparent when you go over dips in the road and the body/tailgate flexes. That metal on metal pop is hard to ignore and is very irritating once you hear it.

Shumax

 

[sheltonfilms]

Probably too late now but I would have taken a caliper and measured both sides balls and see if there is a big difference.

 

[SHUMAX]

I did notice they both had wear on them - the paint was worn off and groved a bit. If this does not work, I supposed I could get new ones - the bolt right on. Not a big deal to replace...

 

[SHUMAX]

100 miles so far and no noise. Not sure if that is the rise in temps from 25 to 60, or if my attempt at a repair (above) worked. Regardless, I am happy with it!!

Shumax

 

[RandyH2]

Good detective work!

For anyone reading this in the future, can someone comment on using the 3M brush-on tape? Seems like you would be better off just getting some thick grease in there, but maybe the 3M product is needed to fill some space.

 

[SHUMAX]

For what it is worth, I tired wheel bearing grease before and it did not work...

 

[swshawaii]

For future reference if anyone needs the stickiest grease on the planet check out the ES Formula 5 Prelube used for polyurethane bushings. I had a loud pop when opening the driver door caused by a flattened rubber hinge roller. I also tried every type of thick grease until I found some supplied with a ES sway bar frame bushing kit. Worked great, just don't get it on your hands because it will not wash off without using a strong solvent such as acetone. Amazing stuff.

ENERGY SUSPENSION FORMULA 5 PRELUBE
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/formula-5-prelube-bushing-lube.asp