Post-lift concerns

[theluke19]

There's a few concerns i have about my ST after the lift has been installed.

1- When I start it up, right when the engine gets going, there's a slight rub noise, about the same RPM as the engine as it's starting. Sounds alot like a quick rub with a metal tool down a ridged piece of plastic, very fast. I'll take a video to post later. Anyone else get this?

2- I've noticed a couple of different times a pop, or harder shift into drive, from reverse, than it normally should be. Thoughts?

3- Sounds almost as if there's a loose bolt or something laying in a low area of metal, which rolls around when my truck is at a certain angle. It almost sounds like it is in the bed, below the plastic bed mat, but on a metal area that would trap it? Or maybe in the lower part of the cab, on the driver/rear, maybe even behind the seat. I'm going to go try to find that one shortly, seems like it may just be a piece of hardware trapped, but I'll just need to locate it.

4- Foglights don't line up , but I expected that. I'll check out all mounting points involved, but I think I'm just going to bust out the dremel (which I'll probably need for #5 as well)

5- Slight rub (more so on the passenger side) in the front wheel wells, on both rear walls of the wheel well, on the inner side of it. That's either a TT or a dremel fix, imo.




If anyone has thoughts on any of these, and I know some of these have already been discussed else where, feel free to chime in.

All in all, I'm way happier with the truck (minor issues, or not!)

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Answer's...

1. The rub noise might be the Serp. Belt rubbing on the A/C hose, ziptie the hose back away from the belt, the shop probably didn't know about this and didn't check.

2. The pop or maybe clunk noise from shifting into drive from reverse is probably the u-joints on the drivshaft, check the driveshaft for play. Also check all the body bushing and bodylift pucks to make sure their all tightened down (you're susposed to recheck the body bolts and retorque them about 100-500 miles after being down)

3. They might have dropped a socket into the rear cab cavity behind the seat, I did this when I did my body lift (I got it out with a telescopic magnet).

4. I answered this on the other post...

5. Sawzall or grinder with a cutting wheel will take tare of the rubbing (measure both sides of the wheelwells from tire to wheelwell to see if they kept the body straight while doing the bodylift, do this on the bed too).

5a... If you have the same wheel/tire combo as mine as I think you do you will have rubbing on the UCA and sway bar on the inside of the tire at full lock when turning, you'll hear the side cleats on the tire rub.

 

[OffTrac]

1. The rub noise might be the Serp. Belt rubbing on the A/C hose, ziptie the hose back away from the belt, the shop probably didn't know about this and didn't check.

I'd almost bet they didn't take care of that. Don't start the truck again without getting that done!

3. They might have dropped a socket into the rear cab cavity behind the seat, I did this when I did my body lift (I got it out with a telescopic magnet).

Agree. Did it myself because the socket was a little loose on the extension. Pulled it out with a telescopic magnet as well.

4- Foglights don't line up , but I expected that. I'll check out all mounting points involved, but I think I'm just going to bust out the dremel (which I'll probably need for #5 as well)

I think that solution is a bit overkill. You can fix it without cutting up the bumper. Beware! Once you realize how satisfying and easy it is to start cutting up the truck, it's hard to stop. I have to restrain myself from cutting my bumper off even though it hangs too low and I scrape it on stuff all the time. I repaint the stupid thing once a month, lol.

 

[theluke19]

Is this the hose and areas you guys were talking about? I told the fella prior to him getting started about that issue, he said he checked it out, and it appeared OK.

I threw on a few zip-ties for reassurance.. hope this is the place all the fuss is about (the hose did seem to clear it decently prior to the zip-ties):

this also seemed to lessen the rigid sounding rub noise that happens just after cranking it up- unless it's all in my mind.

And I read in another thread someone else had it rub against another pulley, which I put another zip-tie to prevent ( I can already see a little rub on the hose from that pulley):

Also, where you guys were talking about losing the socket- are you talking about these areas? I dug around in there with my telescopic magnet, but didn't get any 'bites' :/ I also tried to recreate the issue, but couldn't at the time (maybe it fell into it's final resting place):

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Yep, that's the hose, good you pulled it away from the pulley and belt. Those are the body bolt pockets where I had a socket fall into a couple time until I finally through some electrical tape on extension and socket to keep it on. There's a big cavity under there, it probably moved somewhere you can't get the magnet to or they used a crap socket that's not magnetic.

 

[theluke19]

Took it in for an alignment today - same place I got the tires (they gave me a great deal, figured I'd give them more business)


Here's the breakdown they gave me -
Camber kit - 50
Alignment - 61
camber kit install , 40 per side- 80 total.

Basically told me I as looking at about 200 total.. Does that sound right?

 

[OffTrac]

That's not terrible but I'm pretty sure I paid about $60 for both sides of the camber kit including parts and installation. The kit itself shouldn't be more than about $30.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Alignment's usually run $60-80, some places have a year warranty on their alignments so you can take it back. I got mine done at GoodYear for $62 and got a year warranty with that (I can take it back weekly if I needed/ wanted and get it redone for free).

As for the price of the caster/camber kit that's not bad, Napa charges $29 each set (2 needed) and rockauto.com sells the kit for $20 each.

They kinda got you with the charge for installing the kits, you could've done both sides in your driveway with hand tools in about 30 minutes.

Overall not too bad. It's good to get this done so you save your new tires.

 

[theluke19]

Alignment's usually run $60-80, some places have a year warranty on their alignments so you can take it back. I got mine done at GoodYear for $62 and got a year warranty with that (I can take it back weekly if I needed/ wanted and get it redone for free).

As for the price of the caster/camber kit that's not bad, Napa charges $29 each set (2 needed) and rockauto.com sells the kit for $20 each.

They kinda got you with the charge for installing the kits, you could've done both sides in your driveway with hand tools in about 30 minutes.

Overall not too bad. It's good to get this done so you save your new tires.

I actually requested that they order that part (they didn't have it) for me to come back tomorrow (tuesday) to have them put on and aligned.

So are you saying I should look for a local auto parts store, purchase them there, and then put them on myself - and THEN take it for alignment?


Also, the fella said the performance won't be bad on the tires, but the machine says it will pull to the left. He just said the tires will wear unevenly, as I suspected- Am I causing any damage driving it for the next couple days (with the exception of the unmeasurable uneven wear I'll put on during that time)?

 

[MidnightRebel07]

For the next couple days you'll be fine. if they already have the parts on order and their gonna do the alignment tomorrow then I'd just have them do it.

It's up to you if you wanna spend the time to replace the bolts and washers yourself or pay the money. I'd have them check the balljoints too when they do the alignment.

 

[theluke19]

Ended up taking the truck to a Sears Auto, where the techs stated I wouldn't need that kit.

From what I understand, doesn't the truck go out of alignment pretty easy if I don't have that kit? Or does it vary from truck to truck.

Here's the results they gave me - It's a 6 month warranty on the alignment, so worst case scenario, bring it back in and if it tests terrible on alignment, I'll have them put the kit in for a charge, but align for free.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Looks good man. The only thing off was the tie rod ends, especially the right side. That would've chewed up those tires.

 

[theluke19]

So the non-installation of the Camber kit is nothing to be concerned with? As long as the truck aligns good, it doesn't necessarily 'need it', and shouldn't fall out of alignment for no reason, right?


In other news.. I picked up a toy at Sears for cheap to help with my cutting
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00919953000P?intcmp=cm_deals_march2012-top

I didn't pay full price for it - It's in this month's Craftsman Club 50% Off items.

 

[OffTrac]

My truck made it the first 10 years of its life without the kit.

 

[theluke19]

My truck made it the first 10 years of its life without the kit.

Very cool. Was a little worries when one shop tells me I need it, and one tells me I don't... it's like... who do I believe?! (the one who's charging less LOL)




Gonna start on some of this steamy goodness this weekend too.

Thanks, here's the trimming. No before photos. There is some metal removed (just did it) so it needs a little cleaning, but you get the idea.

 

[OffTrac]

Just keep a watchful eye on how your tires are wearing. Should be fine.

Be careful with the trimming. It's more fun that you might imagine. I had to walk away and take a break before I had the whole front end chopped off, lol. The first inch is the hardest.

 

[essendon22]

I concur, the cutting is very addictive! haha Word of advice, if you are gonna keep that bolt, take it out and remove the washer that's in between the two pieces of sheet metal. Makes it a lot easier to cut, and you can shave the metal down to right where the bolt goes, then just throw it back together.

On a side note, how are you this new and your profile already says "Elite SportTrac'er"? I haven't even seen that before. Elite Explorer yeah, but that's a new one on me!

 

[MidnightRebel07]

:bsnicker::wavey:

The first inch is the hardest.

That's what she said... Sorry, had to...

 

[OffTrac]

how are you this new and your profile already says "Elite SportTrac'er"?

Elite just refers to those that join the Elite. You could be Elite with one post to your name.

That's what she said... Sorry, had to...

Argggh! Didn't see that one coming. I usually catch myself. I only went about two and a half inches total, though...lol

 

[MidnightRebel07]

I'll let the last one go. lol Could say something but I already got yea.