Power Door Lock Issue

[Celeborn]

Hey guys,

I have been researching this for over two hours, and while I have found similar stories, none of them describe the problem I am having.

When I hit the unlock/lock buttons in my 1997 Mountaineer, the locks all cycle, I can hit unlock and they will unlock then lock, and vise/versa. I had to press it 4 times earlier before it actually stayed unlocked.

And if I continue to hold the unlock/lock button, it will keep cycling ( trying to unlock ) instead of unlocking once and stopping like it should.

If I use my key fob it all works normally, but I don't want to grab my key fob when I'm in the car trying to let someone else in.

Can anyone shed some light on this issue? Thanks.

 

[gatzdon]

My 2000 Ex has a similar problem.

I assumed it was a combination of the power lock switch corroding (not passing enough current); the solenoids wearing out; and the locking mechanisms corroding (increased resistance).

For the doors to lock or unlock, the mechanisms have to actuate beyond a certain point to toggle into the opposite state, else the fall back and remain the original state. I assumed corrosion of the mechanisms was contributing to my vehicle because sometimes a door would stay half way between locked/unlocked state. I spray them now, but once they are corroded, grease doesn't remove corrosion.

Personally I let it go since my Ex has two tires in the junkyard already and there's nothing left worth stealing in it.

Does the issue happen the same for all lock/unlock switches, or more so for the driver's side switch? Since your FOB works better, I would look at the switches first.

 

[Celeborn]

My 2000 Ex has a similar problem.

I assumed it was a combination of the power lock switch corroding (not passing enough current); the solenoids wearing out; and the locking mechanisms corroding (increased resistance).

For the doors to lock or unlock, the mechanisms have to actuate beyond a certain point to toggle into the opposite state, else the fall back and remain the original state. I assumed corrosion of the mechanisms was contributing to my vehicle because sometimes a door would stay half way between locked/unlocked state. I spray them now, but once they are corroded, grease doesn't remove corrosion.

Personally I let it go since my Ex has two tires in the junkyard already and there's nothing left worth stealing in it.

Does the issue happen the same for all lock/unlock switches, or more so for the driver's side switch? Since your FOB works better, I would look at the switches first.

It happens on all switches. The actuator would make sense, because sometimes my driver door doesn't unlock and I have to mess with the key for 5 minutes to get it to fully unlock and open.

But I don't want to replace all of the actuators unless I'm sure that's the cause, because it seems to move fine by hand.

 

[gatzdon]

If the issue is with unlocking only, then the problem is a very small spring in your door latch.

I'm on my phone so I can't search, but I know there are plenty of threads on it in the forum here.

 

[Celeborn]

Bump; I still haven't been able to track down the cause of my door lock issues, but they are becoming increasingly aggravating.

Something else that seems to happen is that I have to click unlock more than once for some of the doors to fully unlock. The passenger door almost never fully unlocks unless I hit unlock 2-3 times. Same with the rear driver door.

 

[bobflood]

Something else that seems to happen is that I have to click unlock more than once for some of the doors to fully unlock. The passenger door almost never fully unlocks unless I hit unlock 2-3 times. Same with the rear driver door.

This is basically the way it is supposed to work - first press just unlocks driver's door; second press unlocks rest of doors.

 

[Celeborn]

This is basically the way it is supposed to work - first press just unlocks driver's door; second press unlocks rest of doors.

I know that, what I mean is I will unlock all of the doors, but some of them will still remain locked, until I unlock them 2-3 more times. They are not being jammed by anything. It seems like it could be failing actuators, but I personally find it hard to believe all 4 actuators would fail at the same time, unless it's a flawed design.

 

[swshawaii]

If I use my key fob it all works normally

If ALL the door locks operate properly by remote ALL the time, there are obviously no mechanical or actuator issues.
If you haven't yet, flush the latches and locks with penetrant followed by white lithium spray or similar. These actuators are weak and known for stripped nylon gears. Any binding will prevent movement. I've replaced three in two years.

 

[Celeborn]

If ALL the door locks operate properly by remote ALL the time, there are obviously no mechanical or actuator issues.
If you haven't yet, flush the latches and locks with penetrant followed by white lithium spray or similar. These actuators are weak and known for stripped nylon gears. Any binding will prevent movement. I've replaced three in two years.

Originally it all appeared to work normally when using the key fob. But as of now, on SOME occasions, a couple of the doors wont fully unlock.

And I'm really stumped on what's going on with my interior lock switches. You know how when you hit lock or unlock and hold it, it shouldn't do anything more? Well if you hold lock or unlock, it keeps trying to lock or unlock the doors, instead of disengaging. And a lot of the time, when trying to unlock them from the inside, it will cycle between unlock and lock, and end up locking.

 

[swshawaii]

Intermittent problems are a PITA, especially locks that don't have trouble codes. You'd be surprised, sometimes thoroughly cleaning and lubing the latches works wonders, and many have reported a complete fix, albeit sometimes a temporary one. The tiny "mystery" springs inside the latches are also a very common failure that prevents the door buttons from locking or unlocking completely. Try lubing the latches first, if no improvement you have no other choice than removing interior door panels for closer inspection.

 

[Celeborn]

I went ahead and lubricated all of the door latches last week, and it didn't really help with any of my problems. I removed the door panels, but honestly everything appears to be in tact. I'm trying to chase something invisible, and I'm at a loss. :/

 

[swshawaii]

Most common failures are either the mentioned internal latch springs or worn actuators. I fought these issues with three of my four doors in a two year time span. Ended up replacing two front latches and three actuators. Closely inspect inside the door latches and the bottom of the doors for small broken springs. A buzzing sound usually indicates a faulty actuator with stripped nylon gears. Removing the glass run channel with a single bolt is a must for inspection, just be aware of any attached wires. You've probably seen these threads but there's a lot of info in them.

door latch problem solved - temporarily maybe??
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207373

How To: Drivers Exterior Door Handle Replacement
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165081