Door lock issue

[Sitcoms]

So, my door locks have been wearing thin since I got the car about a month and a half ago, and figured that the driver's side was going to need fixing/replacing at some point. I just decided to let themselves wear down.

First off, there would be a very harsh, almost metal on metal sound when locking the doors, especially from the driver's side door. I believe it was some of the gears grinding each other down every time I locked.

Now today I go out to my truck to pull it out of my driveway, so that the other people in my household do not park infront of me and cause a big hassle. I press the FOB unlock button, it makes the sound of unlocking, but it is not unlocked all the way. The small indicator inside rises up slightly, but not fully, thus not fully unlocking the door. I then locked the doors again and decided to try the key itself, which will not turn in either direction when inserted.

I climbed in through the passenger door, which unlocked perfectly fine and pulled on the inside handle, which unlocked the door. Also, if I press the inside unlock/lock button, all doors lock and all other doors (besides the drivers door) unlock perfectly fine.

I'll take a video of the locking/unlocking sound/example if need-be. Any suggestions? Is it going to need to be fully replaced or just tweaked with?

 

[4tified]

So, my door locks have been wearing thin since I got the car about a month and a half ago, and figured that the driver's side was going to need fixing/replacing at some point...

I have the same exact problem with my drivers-side door, only it's been an issue for me for over 2 years. It depends on the weather how stubborn it is. Does yours unlock after several tries or not at all?

 

[Sitcoms]

I have the same exact problem with my drivers-side door, only it's been an issue for me for over 2 years. It depends on the weather how stubborn it is. Does yours unlock after several tries or not at all?

It was unlocking fine before today - it's been cold and rainy the past 2-3 days (Mid 50's, almost constant rain) so i'm wondering if that's part of the issue.

Before today it would occasionally act up, but after 2 or 3 tries it would right itself and unlock, but as of today after 10-20 tries it still will not unlock.

 

[4DoorFord]

I had these issues. I replaced door latch and actuator and it almost always opens with the keyfob on first try, but once in a while it takes two pushes. Key works perfectly also.

Does your door hang at all? Its a common thing on these older trucks and I actually just had my hinge fixed. I believe closing the door with a hang over time causes damage to the latch.

 

[ThatExplorerDude]

Im having the same Issue with mine.. except after a hundred times it still will not unlock. I was told that the cause is because of a cut wire in the driver side door boot.

it looks similiar to this in the drivers side door panel (*NOTE: This boot will not look exactly the same because this is not in an Explorer*)

http://s305.photobucket.com/user/blkrhino73/media/b515d0d3.jpg.html

 

[swshawaii]

Unlikely the OP has a broken wire since the drivers door "partially" unlocks. Open the door and flush the latch thoroughly with penetrant and check for sticking. If that doesn't help remove the door panel and check all lock rod linkages connected to the latch. Grinding sound is caused by the actuator nylon gears and may be due to binding. This added spring "fix" inside the door may help.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207373

 

[Sitcoms]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yx2mTYSh6ko&feature=youtu.be

Made a short youtube video to show what's happening. It's currently updating so it's not viewable.

 

[swshawaii]

Good video and sound. My bet is the tiny and weak internal latch spring that is notorious for breaking. Good chance you may find
the spring remnants inside the latch or the bottom of the door when you remove the panel. Hopefully the actuator can still be used.

http://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...v6-gas-engine/body-cat/lock-and-hardware-scat

 

[4tified]

I'm gonna try this spring latch fix. Then maybe I'll actually be able to get out of the car on the first try!

 

[Sitcoms]

Good video and sound. My bet is the tiny and weak internal latch spring that is notorious for breaking. Good chance you may find
the spring remnants inside the latch or the bottom of the door when you remove the panel. Hopefully the actuator can still be used.

http://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...v6-gas-engine/body-cat/lock-and-hardware-scat

Will bring it to my father's auto body shop (just for use of tools and the fact that we don't have a garage of our own) within the next few days and will post back with results.

 

[Sitcoms]

Took off the panel today, it's that small plastic ring, snapped right in half. Will get pictures of it tomorrow when I go to pick n pull and grab a new piece along with a few other parts and go back to finish the job.

 

[Sitcoms]

So went to pick and pull, grabbed one out of a 2000 sport without taking apart the mechanism in my current car. Took it out and realized they were two different things - the hook on my current one was significantly longer, buy like 3 inches. Reluctantly replaced the door panel without putting it back together and just going to deal with not being able to lock my door still until I can go back to pick n pull with the former part to find the correct one.

 

[drolls]

On mine, the rivet that holds the actuator in place broke so the actuator was just floating around inside the door, thus only unlocking the door when it was in the correct position. When open the door do you see a little hole where a rivet used to be?

 

[Sitcoms]

On mine, the rivet that holds the actuator in place broke so the actuator was just floating around inside the door, thus only unlocking the door when it was in the correct position. When open the door do you see a little hole where a rivet used to be?

Yeah, when we took off the panel we noticed the rivet was kinda jumping around and was worn out, and we were hoping that would be the only problem, but when we looked inside the entire actuator was snapped out.

 

[swshawaii]

Took off the panel today, it's that small plastic ring, snapped right in half.

Under $5 kit that includes the (yellow) outside handle rod and key cylinder clips. May save you another trip to the salvage yard.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=12366&SEName=75473

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2201080&postcount=78

 

[ducrnd]

door lock accueator (sp?) needs replaced, mine did the exact same thing. the part was 34 or 43 dollars from O'Rielly's Auto . get extra door push pins..to reset the interior panel

 

[JasonMcc68]

Mine has done the same thing except I cant get my door open to remove the panel. It looks like the panel runs along beside the dash at the front preventing me from removing it without opening door. Any suggestions??

 

[swshawaii]

Mine has done the same thing except I cant get my door open to remove the panel. It looks like the panel runs along beside the dash at the front preventing me from removing it without opening door. Any suggestions??

This "may" work. If not, disconnect the battery and unbolt the seat for clearance.

98 Ford Explorer Door Problems- how to open without panel removal
https://youtu.be/lJ0Fsh3561s

 

[JasonMcc68]

Thanks, I saw that before posting and when I tried that on mine it seemed completely different and I had gotten no where after 2 hrs and really wanted to thrash the door open. Finally I took it to the shop and paid someone else to replace the latch completely. $300 but I'm splitting it with my son who I got the truck for and it's a free truck so I don't mind so much . It's fixed and I am happy... Everything else on the truck works great so far.