Power Window Troubleshooting

[GeosFord]

Hi, I have a problem with my 1997 Explorer XLT power windows. I have done a seach on the forum, but have not found my specfic problem. Both my right (passenger) side windows will not work from either the drivers control or the individual doors. Then two days ago the rear right window went down with both the drivers control and the door control but will not go up. Both the left side windows work fine. I tried to use the troubleshooting guide from one of the posts, but it doesn't really address the issue of two windows not working.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[J_C]

Most common cause is frayed wires in the rubber boot between the driver's door hinges. You might also try wiggling the window lockout button on the driver's door master control panel, assuming it has one, while trying to use the other buttons for them, but IMO it's more likely the wires than the switch panel.

 

[koda2000]

It could very well be broken wires in the driver's door jam bundle. I'd remove the door to be able to work easily in the small space. Easy to do. There's a single 10mm bolt in the center of the barrel that holds the barrel connector together (the bolt will not come out, only separates the two halves when loosened) and then there's just four 13mm bolts that hold the door to the hinges. -There is little-to-no adjust possible between the door and the hinges, so door replacement is also easy.

It may be that your problem is in the master window switch. All the wiring for the power windows goes through the master switch. After much investigation as to why I had a similar problem on my '01 ST, the master window switch turned out to be the problem.

 

[XLTrunner]

Isn't it true that, if the driver side windows work, then the LB/Blk wire that feeds the pwr windows passing thru the door jamb boot would be intact and not at fault here?

 

[koda2000]

Isn't it true that, if the driver side windows work, then the LB/Blk wire that feeds the pwr windows passing thru the door jamb boot would be intact and not at fault here?

I'm not sure that that's true (and I don't feel like studying a wiring diagram to find out) but just because there's power at the master window switch doesn't mean that all the switches (master and individual doors) have power and ground. Power windows go UP/DN by reversing the power and ground connections to the motors via the switch(s).

What I did to diagnosis the problem on my ST was to figure out which wires did what at the master switch and then, using my battery charger as a power/ground source, run each window from the master switch's plug. They all went up and down testing them that way, so I knew my problem had to be the master switch. I bought a new master switch off eBay for under $30 and now everything works again.

Unfortunately, the PO had absolutely torn the truck apart trying to figure out why only the driver's window worked. Took me a week to fix everything he'd broken. Total mess!

 

[bobflood]

True, the power wire is OK if any window works. However, the control wires that apply ground to operate individual windows also go thru that bundle.

koda - never thought of using a battery charger that way. I use my jump box; it has a 12V outlet and I built a 12V plug with alligator clips on the ends.

 

[koda2000]

True, the power wire is OK if any window works. However, the control wires that apply ground to operate individual windows also go thru that bundle.

koda - never thought of using a battery charger that way. I use my jump box; it has a 12V outlet and I built a 12V plug with alligator clips on the ends.

I've always just used a spare battery or my charger to test stuff. I keep wanting to buy a PowerProbe, but I can't justify the expense at my age. Maybe I'll ask for one for Christmas. That and a good battery operated impact wrench... LOL.

 

[Chris Taunt]

I know that I am new here but I just tore into my 97 master switch bundle and found 2 broken wires and a handful of cracked wires. I only had one window that didnt work fixed issue now all windows work and doors now lock with door open where as they wouldn't before.

 

[J_C]

I know that I am new here but I just tore into my 97 master switch bundle and found 2 broken wires and a handful of cracked wires. I only had one window that didnt work fixed issue now all windows work and doors now lock with door open where as they wouldn't before.

Welcome to the forum!

It would be good to add your vehicle year/trim/engine/drivetrain (2WD vs 4WD or AWD) to your profile and/or in your sig.

 

[J_C]

You can also use a cordless tool battery to test things... 18V+ might be too high to test bulbs, but will do fine for a few seconds to do a test cycle of a motor/pump etc... just don't have it hooked up to the rest of the vehicle so 18V+ doesn't backfeed into everything.

 

[Chris Taunt]

Thanks j.c, I have a 97 ford explorer xlt 4x4