Probably common thread problem

[Garrett_david1]

I have a garage and like a clean floor 'cause it keeps me out of trouble.
Less of a chance of tracking something into the house and onto the carpet and thus ticking off the boss.
OHV oil leaks always start out small, get to the point where you can smell it, and eventually it moves on to smoke...

I hear you on that one. We have beige carpets.

 

[fast_dave]

I hear you on that one. We have beige carpets.

Same here - last location & current location.

Compare how your oil filter mount area looks to the pics of the repair thread I posted.

 

[Garrett_david1]

Same here - last location & current location.

Compare how your oil filter mount area looks to the pics of the repair thread I posted.

Well........ everything there is coated in oil. I just figured the oil filter was leaking, never gave much of a thought about the mount. Would that only leak when at operating temperature?

 

[fast_dave]

Well........ everything there is coated in oil. I just figured the oil filter was leaking, never gave much of a thought about the mount. Would that only leak when at operating temperature?

Any time the engine is running, that area will leak AND radiate outwards.

When the engine is turned off, it will seep off residual pressure, creating a noticeable tear drop shaped drip on the bottom of the oil filter..

I verified the residual pressure situation - in a round about sense - after I replaced all the o-rings.

When the engine was started and running, the tip of the arm on my oil factory oil gauge raised UP at least an 1/8" if not more.

If memory serves me correct, before the repair, the arm was touching the lower part of the oil can handle, now it's touching right around the upper part of the oil can handle.

Hope that helps - put a day aside to do it.

It's not a high tech job, just laborious as you'll have to raise all four corners to get the truck high in the air so as to be able to get the exhaust system out from under the Ex (and also not to have everything right in your face).

Also, you want to take your time buttoning up the exhaust - you want to make sure everything is back in there with equal pressures so the system is not favoring one side or the other.

Everything you're putting back in place has been oriented in a certain way for 20+ years...

 

[Garrett_david1]

Any time the engine is running, that area will leak AND radiate outwards.

When the engine is turned off, it will seep off residual pressure, creating a noticeable tear drop shaped drip on the bottom of the oil filter..

I verified the residual pressure situation - in a round about sense - after I replaced all the o-rings.

When the engine was started and running, the tip of the arm on my oil factory oil gauge raised UP at least an 1/8" if not more.

If memory serves me correct, before the repair, the arm was touching the lower part of the oil can handle, now it's touching right around the upper part of the oil can handle.

Hope that helps - put a day aside to do it.

It's not a high tech job, just laborious as you'll have to raise all four corners to get the truck high in the air so as to be able to get the exhaust system out from under the Ex (and also not to have everything right in your face).

Also, you want to take your time buttoning up the exhaust - you want to make sure everything is back in there with equal pressures so the system is not favoring one side or the other.

Everything you're putting back in place has been oriented in a certain way for 20+ years...

Unfortunately but fortunately I've already had that all apart, when I did the clutch and rear seal.

 

[fast_dave]

Unfortunately but fortunately I've already had that all apart, when I did the clutch and rear seal.

@Garrett_david1

I hear you, everything has already been separated once, so it all should unbolt pretty easily.

Keep us in the loop and don't be a stranger

 

[Garrett_david1]

@Garrett_david1

I hear you, everything has already been separated once, so it all should unbolt pretty easily.

Keep us in the loop and don't be a stranger

Yes sir. As soon as I get it figured out, you guys would be the second to know (wife would be the first)

 

[SixBucks]

A lot of excellent information in this thread. Thanks to both of you for sharing so much.
fast_dave, do you have a link handy to the best procedure for the valve cover gasket replacement? There seems to be so many. Mine is an 04, motor built in Oct of 2003.
You seem to be very on top of everything. Or for that matter, Garrett_david1, the procedure that you used?
I plan on tackling mine soon, sometime in August. It's to the point of smoke rolling at times now.

 

[fast_dave]

@SixBucks

@Garrett_david1 and I are dealing with the 4.0 OHV version of this engine.

I'd imagine that since your Ex is a 2004, it has the SOHC version.

If so, start another thread specifically asking for info on that engine.

Generally, what I can offer up to you is that to ensure valve covers do not leak, 80% of the job is prep work that involves surface cleanliness.

Thus, this seemingly simple job is NOT a rush job - put a full day aside if you want leak free results. You want to be able to take breaks as it's tedious.

Use cleaners that do not leave a residue on the Valve Covers and Head Surfaces. Utilize clean high nap cotton rags/tube socks turned inside out, and q-tips for the bolt holes.

Never use cork based gaskets when rubber gaskets are available.

Permatex Ultra Copper RTV is your best friend, despite what the gasket makers might tell you - remember - they're in the biz of selling you gaskets every 3-4 years....

HTH -

 

[Garrett_david1]

A lot of excellent information in this thread. Thanks to both of you for sharing so much.
fast_dave, do you have a link handy to the best procedure for the valve cover gasket replacement? There seems to be so many. Mine is an 04, motor built in Oct of 2003.
You seem to be very on top of everything. Or for that matter, Garrett_david1, the procedure that you used?
I plan on tackling mine soon, sometime in August. It's to the point of smoke rolling at times now.

I do believe @fast_dave said it right. Stay away from cork gaskets and take your time. I took me 6 hours to do mine. Had to remove a bunch of vacuum lines and wire harnesses. Just take your time and research if you dont know.

 

[SixBucks]

Excellent information; thank you very much gentlemen, much appreciated.