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Problem with New slave cylinder for M5R1?

briann

Member
Joined
September 29, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Virginia
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 xlt
Have 1991 Explorer with M5R1 transmission. Put in new clutch, throwout bearing, master cylinder and slave cylinder. And had transmission rebuilt. After installing everything and bleeding the clutch, drove it from field I worked on it to my house about 6 miles away. Worked fine except I woke up to discover that the line was leaking at the slave cylinder line junction. Resevior was empty. Didn't think the problem was the line but bit the bullet and put in new $60 line. Problem is that I can't get the line to clip in the replacement slave cylinder. It has a clip instead of teeth like found in the original. It clipped pretty easily when out of the transmission, but now the transmission is installed I can't get line to catch. Does anyone know what direction the clip should be facing? The only thing I can think of is that the clip prongs are pushing on the transmission casing preventing them from seating properly. Anyone use this replacement slave cylinder with clip instead of teeth and have any ideas of what the problem could be please let me know. Many thanks. Brian
 



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Can you get pics of the end of the hydraulic line and the slave cylinder or perhaps tell us what part number and where you purchased the slave cylinder at?

Does the new line have a plastic sleeve that goes around the end that plugs into the slave cylinder?
 






The slave cylinder and the new line are both NAPA parts. I don't have the part number for the slave cylinder, but the line is part# 819-5930. I tried the original line (brass ended) with the new slave cylinder first and that snapped okay but leaked overnight. The new line is all black plastic on slave cylinder end and does have plastic sleeve. Although with clip-on slave cylinder connection instead of quick disconnect teeth, I don't think sleeve would serve any purpose other than possibly reducing play in line. Sorry don't have camera to take any pictures.
 






Here is line picture from NAPA.
604142.jpg
 






Here are pix from NAPA.

823374.jpg

Its sort of hard to see, but by white plastic plug is clip that replaces teeth.

604142.jpg
 






If this is what I think it is,
First question is can you even get the clip off the line with the tranny installed?
If you put the clip in with the opening of the clip pointing to the rear then the clip will come out but fall into the bell housing. From what I could see it wouldn't work right that way anyway because the open ends of the clip hit the bell housing and prevent the clip from moving in it's slot far enough to seat all the way.
If the clip was installed with the opening pointing to the front then there isn't enough room to pull the clip back and off of it's groove, because the clip hits the bell housing. Even if it would seat that also means that later on if you ever needed to disconnect the line you couldn't. tranny's got to come out.

The solution is to modify the opening of the bell housing by cutting some material from the rear of the opening where the line goes thru the bell housing portion. I used the side of a drill bit (3/8 - 1/2) to machine off enough material. (Ya can't grind or file aluminum)

The other problem i had was getting the line to go into the hole and stay securely. Attempts to install the line started to damage the line portion from the sharp front edge of the clip. So I took a dremmel and put a bevel on that edge. That edge doesn't need to be crisp to hold the line in place. just that one edge only. This making sense and/or matching what you've seen?

After thinking more as i write the tranny's got to come out anyway because you can't work on enlarging that hole with the slave cyl in place. The line would be in the way of the drill bit.
After modifying the opening you must be sure that the clip opening points to the front so the clip will be outside the tranny if you ever want to disconnect the clutch line.

I called Perfection and there story was "they didn't know there were two styles when the designed the connection". If yours in like mine we got the odd one.
oh, the other thing they said was they'd send another clip or I could grind .20 off the clip I had, like it was too thick or something. (Couple of strokes on a large flat file should do that part)

Hope this helps

ps the white sleeve is left off
 






Pulled the transmission, again, And took out the slave cylinder. Popped the pins that hold in the line connector in both the old in new slave cylinder. Swap in old quick disconnect for new clipped model. After rebending the teeth of quick disconnect, reassambled eveything and seems to be working fine. Also, it may be worth mentioning that in order to get the line to snap in (with either fitting), it helps to twist a long flat screwdriver (inserted thru peek hole in transmission) against back of connector when pressing in. Otherwise it slides back far enough to make it near impossible to snap in. Thanks for input shaggymane; I really didn't want to pull the transmission w/o having a good idea of the nature of the problem first.
 






how do you put that metal clip on that holds the hose in the slave cylinder with transmission already in?
 






If you haven't dropped the clip into the bell housing or if you have and you can get it out with a magnet. I used a real skinny needle nose plier. First though I twisted a trash bag twist tie to the clip in case it slipped from pliers. But I as stated in previous post, the clip wouldn't work for me and I had to go back to old slave connector with teeth instead of clip. The clip would jiggle against the bell housing and come half way loose and resulted in leaking hydraulic fluid. If you have the old slave cylinder swap the line connectors and use the old teeth model with new slave cylinder. It may just be me, but I don't think the clip style will work. They are the same size and you only have to pop the pins the swap the connectors. I've heard mention of filing it down so it will stay locked, but this sounded questionable to me. For one thing if filed down, you would no longer be able to pull it half way off as designed if you need to take the line off. On the positive side, you don't have to completely drop the trans to pull the slave cylinder; it's tight, but with a little knuckle scraping the slave cylinder can be yanked by taking out the bell housing bolts and setting on either the crossbar or y-manifold ( I forget which) and reaching up through the crack.

I just woke up and haven't finished my first cup of joe, and got to get to work. So if this doesn't answer your question or make any sense, get back to me and I will get back with you as soon as I can with a clearer explanation.

Good Luck,
briann
 






so i need to change the slave end or the hose end. im confused. im tryin to keep from droppin the transmission.
 






The slave end. But you don't need to completely drop the transmission to get the slave cylinder out. When I replaced my transmission I had to cut the y-manifold, but I think you can get enough clearance to get the slave cylinder out by setting bell housing back as far as you can on top of the manifold pipe. You can leave the transfer case on, loosen front and rear driveshafts and cross member and slide back enough to reach in and pull out the slave cylinder (the two bolts are pretty easy to get to). Yeah, you still have that pain in the ass of climbing up on the engine to get at those two top bell housing bolts, but at least you don't have to pull the transfer case and rent a transmission jack. A floor jack with a piece of wood just in front of the transfer case should keep things steady enough as the front will be held steady on the y-manifold pipe. Once slave is out, pull the pin on the new slave to take off the connector with the clip and then pin in the old connector with the teeth and white plastic disconnect sleeve.

If you really hate the idea of pulling the slave cylinder, which I can see why and understand why you would like to avoid if possible. You may be able to get the clip version to work. Ask around and see if anybody has tried spot welding a sturdy strip of thin metal to the clip on the side opposite the opening. Then filing down the clips about halfway to the bend. You then might be able to use the strip to line up clip with the grooves in connector and reach up thru the peek hole and push it on firmly. This strip would also make removal possible if you ever have to disconnect line for some reason. It sure would have been nice if Ford would have just made that connector about a half inch longer. It is hard for me to describe what I mean without pictures. But that NAPA slave cylinder earlier in this thread is the one I doctored. The part with the white plastic plug is the one I replaced with the old one that had teeth inside instead of the black clip that you can barely see in that picture. Good luck and if there is anything I can clarify, just ask.
 






alright thanks alot.. do you have any idea where i can get just the clip ive searched everywhere and noone sells just the clip?
 






It might take me a day or two, but I'll check my junk part box. It may very well be in there. If so, I'll be glad to drop it in the mail to you. Let you know one way or the other ASAP. Also, if you need one, I have the clutch line that goes from the master to slave. I am almost absolutely sure that there is nothing wrong with it. The only reason I bought it was because I was having trouble getting the clip on slave cylinder to work right and I thought the line might be different or causing the problem I was having. The line is hard to get to snap into either slave cylinder with out holding the back end of the connector thru the peek hole with a screwdriver or something flat to keep it from giving just enough to prevent seating correctly.
 






okay thanks alot. i havent drove it in a week or so because of that little clip.
 






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